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Old 04-27-2012, 09:15 PM
rmdailey rmdailey is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kermit, Texas
Posts: 947
Krylon vs gunkote

I gun koted my parked rock tac, a few months ago. I followed all the directions to the letter and read several how to articles on here. It looked good it got some holster wear from daily carry in a kydex/leather holster. I just scraped most of it off with my finger nail. It's just flaking off, and taking most of the parkerizing off with it. So would I be better off just getting krlon for $5 that I can just touch up when needed. Call me crazy but what would textured paint do? Obviously I would tape everything off well. I'm just bummed with gunkote, and don't see how krylon could be any worse.
the best thing about a browning citori is you can take a ragged old reload, hammer it into the barrel, call "pull," break the clay, pull out a piece of brass with a jagged edge of plastic, check the the barrel, and repeat. - Woodworking, Shooting, and Life in General.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:05 AM
1911Brian 1911Brian is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 255
Gun Kote is a superior finish. However, if you don't blast first with Al Oxide 120 grit, it will not hold up. It is part and parcel of the instructions.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:39 AM
CountryUgly CountryUgly is offline
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 121
I personally prefer Duracoat but I guess Gun cote and Cera coat are the same thing and if you dont blast the park finish first ain't nothing gonna stick. Also the parts have to be perfectly clean and if you are doing it in say your garage and have ever used a silicone based product and anything is left in the room like an uncapped can of silicone lube or gasket sealer it will totally mess up you XXXXcoat finish. As far as Krylon goes there is nothing wrong with using it either granted it's not as durable but with a couple of well applied coats and a coat or two of clear and you can have an attractive finish but again durability is sub par.
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:11 PM
1911Brian 1911Brian is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 255
Krylon is fine for furniture, and maybe Ar camo jobs. It will simply rub off. Duracoat is better, and it bonds chemically. It is harder to use in that you have to mix levels of hardener and epoxy. BUT... you don't need to bake. GunKote is reported to be more durable than Duracoat - but you need to blast and bake. Anything good, has a 'hard' requirement to use. BUt, if you want it to last, you need to blast - and NOT glass beads - which is likely what RIA uses before they parkerize.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:21 PM
cobrasatellite cobrasatellite is offline
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 49
I know its not popular and you have to be VERY careful but POR15 auto paint can lead good results if you take your time. That being said I have had pretty good luck with durabake.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:25 PM
cbr6864 cbr6864 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 183
I have used Rust-Oleum High Heat Spray Paint with good results on my hunting rifle
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:45 AM
menzzer37 menzzer37 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 117
I do a lot of GunKoting... these guys are right, it's all about the prep. Park is a good base for Gunkote and KG even recommends it since it's porous. K-phos will also make a huge impact as well. I've also found that if you go for 2 hours at 250 instead of 1 hour at 325, the finish is a bit more durable. I think the biggest thing is degreasing though. Cheers
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