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Old 05-03-2007, 06:27 PM
00 Buck 00 Buck is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CO
Posts: 777
Trouble fitting new slide stop.

I'm trying to put a cylinder & slide forged slide top into my springfield milspec.

I noticed that the slide release doesn't go far enough upwards when I cycle the gun with an empty mag. So I filed a bit off the top of that inner hump thing.


I also noticed that the slide won't go foward all the way with this new slide stop unless pushed. This will definitely ruin the cycling...

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Old 05-03-2007, 06:47 PM
Agent6-3/8 Agent6-3/8 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,490
Sounds like the pin is a little big. Don't mess around with the part of the slide stop that engages the follower. I'm not an expert, but I'll sure one will be along shortly to tell you how to fix your problem.
...arms...discourage and keep the invader and plunderer in awe, and preserve order in the world as well as property. ...Horrid mischief would ensue were (the law-abiding) deprived the use of them. -- Thomas Paine
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:53 PM
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RickB RickB is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Not Seattle, WA, USA
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Take the barrel out, and with the slide stop mounted on the frame, see if the mag will push the slide stop all the way up into its notch in the slide. If it doesn't go, it could be the slot in the slide stop isn't wide and/or deep enough. The top of the "inner hump thing" is what keeps the slide stop from popping out as the gun cycles; it should clear the take-down notch in the slide, but shouldn't be reduced beyond that.
If you're not shooting you should be moving. If you're not moving you should be reloading. If you're not shooting, moving, or reloading, you should be taping or picking brass. - Z.C.
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:35 PM
sniper350 sniper350 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: East Coast
Posts: 214
Check to see if the slide stop is too long. By this I mean, there is not enough clearance between the slide stop face and the plunger. When this happens, it won’t allow the slide stop to fit flat against the frame. Check this. It is easy to miss. The slide stop must be absolutely flat against the frame. The slide not closing easy…….is a clue to me that the slide is not fitting flat. This offsets the channel the slide rides in.

Don’t file anything off the top …….just yet …….check the length first. If it is too long, you must shorten it enough to give the plunger some room……….a little does it.

Let us know what you find

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Old 05-04-2007, 08:55 AM
00 Buck 00 Buck is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CO
Posts: 777
blah, I've put the old slide stop back into the milspec. This gun has gone through over 3K rounds without a hiccup and I don't want to mess with the reliability...

The wear marks on the old slide stop seems nice and even too(can see two shiny lug marks), so maybe the chances of it failing is reduced.

I am going to experiment on my springfield loaded on the weekends.
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Old 05-05-2007, 06:49 AM
00 Buck 00 Buck is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CO
Posts: 777
It fits my loaded 1911 perfectly. Why doesn't it fit the milspec?

I tried fitting a wilson bullet proof slide stop(which works with the loaded) into the milspec with the same result. The slide will not go forward the last 3-4 milimeters or so and the barrel does not fully lift up to lock.

Last edited by 00 Buck; 05-05-2007 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:55 AM
TheGunTech TheGunTech is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Crete
Posts: 47
00 Buck,

The first thing you have to come to reason with is that the barrel you are trying to improve needs a LOT of work on it. I would guess that the rear hood to breach face gap is around .010 to .015 and it should be for proper accuracy between .001 and about .00075 although some will say I am nuts...but we don't really need to talk about my mental health on here...

Now that being said, why do you want a new slide stop when the barrel gap is going to prevent you from getting better accuracy right off the bat? If you install the new slide stop and you can't get the slide/barrel to engage properly it could be that the new slide stop has a diameter that is larger than the factory one. In which case there are a couple of things that need to be considered. First of all is whether or not the legs on the bottom of the barrel are cut properly for the new slide stop...Are they? How do you know? Did you cut them? Or are they factory cut? Hmmm...all good questions because if you did not cut them then they could be too long because of the wider diameter of the new SS. Of course they could also be to won't know unless you measure them, and don't forget barrel bump, this can be a real accuracy and reliability killer if you don't get rid of it on a "fit" barrel...Now there is another possibility...get ready...

It could be that it is the wrong link for that SS! You probably already know, there are different lengths of links (say that three times fast) and the only way to know if it is the right length is to fit the barrel properly...A lot of guys seem to think that the link is what the SS sits/rides on when the gun is in battery...not true. When the gun is in battery the pin should be sitting evenly on the two lower legs of the barrel EVENLY! This is also another contributing factor to accuracy and reliability.

Oh and there is more, is your barrel throughted and polished properly, does the bushing fall out when you turn it, does the recoil rod push up against the legs of the barrel causing too much up tension?

So in summery, why do you want a new SS is the first question to ask yourself. I have seen about 2 or 3 dozen of the mil-spec Springfields since they came out and they were all great shooters as they were. I like them better than any of the others and they seem to be tigher than any of the others. Might just be better off shooting the snot out of it and then having a new barrel/ss/bushing put in it when you want to upgrade to better accuracy...

Hope this helps some

Edited this also to add a couple more thoughts...If your barrel hood is touching on the sides...bad. There should be daylight between the sides of the hood and the slide. Also, when you are done fitting the SS and or new barrel, it is pretty typical for the slide to hang over the back of the frame, not the other way around...then all you have to do is grind it down with the extractor in place to where you want it and you are GTG!...

Last edited by TheGunTech; 05-05-2007 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:08 PM
Kapow Kapow is offline
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 112
Do you have the proper clearance on the lower lugs? If you take out the barrel and insert the slide stop into the barrel link will the link rotate freely until the slide stop is against the lugs? In other words, does it hit the radius?
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Old 05-05-2007, 05:46 PM
00 Buck 00 Buck is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CO
Posts: 777
Originally Posted by TheGunTech
I just wanted to replace the MIM (???) slide stop with a forged one. Didn't know it took THAT much work!

I will leave the milspec alone... The slide/barrel/frame fit is very good I think, so it shouldn't matter much if the slide stop is MIM?

Maybe I'll send it to a pro later to replace the MIM's with better stuff.

Oh BTW, I noticed the barrel feet on my loaded only contacts the frame at the very tips, and unevenly. There is also an uneven peening on the slide stop.

Should I be worried?

Thanks a bunch!

Last edited by 00 Buck; 05-05-2007 at 06:08 PM.
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