Tried my hand at alumahyde on my 1911 slide .....fail - 1911Forum
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  #1  
Old 11-30-2015, 03:11 AM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Tried my hand at alumahyde on my 1911 slide .....fail

Im shure its a great product for most flat surfaces or if it could be thined a bit, I was using the rattle can and three times I simply could not apply it the way I wanted to. Its thicker than typical spraypaint. Sandblasted with AO cleaned with thiner baked 3 hours/ 200 yup did it all in the end it was just to thick for my taste esp on the serrations and the 1911 engraving could hardly see it. Well I wasnt gona leave my slide exposed so I decided to hold it down with some Duplicolor Engine Ceramic in Graphite to me anyway Grey ,its really Iron something. Boy what a diffrence this really applies easy peasy after a light coat of primer , when done baking I just water sand with 1000g sand paper to a super smooth finish.. I know its not as protective as Dura or Ceramacoat but its just till I get ready to have it pro done besides its on my range gun as such wont see to much hard holster use. Pics show the gun nib (all black in box) then the Alumahide od green wich was my first choice color. The rest in grey is finish product grips are orig Taurus also painted plus the ol toaster oven where the majic happens. I left the frame as is for contrast thats just my preferance. I had fun made mistakes and learned alot from diffrent forums. This my second handgun I paint.
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Last edited by 16-1911s; 11-30-2015 at 03:27 AM. Reason: spell/content
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2015, 03:45 AM
Totally Tactical Totally Tactical is offline
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I have done some Ar rifles with Alumnhyde and Duracoat. Both with the rattle can.
Alumnhyde did go on thick. So thick the pin holes had to be cleaned out with a drill bit to assemble.
Duracoat is much thinner and the gun reassembled with no problems.
With that said I think for the rifles they both worked fine, but for a handgun that goes in and out of a holster, I think it worth it to send it to somebody and have it Ceracoated.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2015, 05:41 AM
remanaz remanaz is offline
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I used Aluma-hyde II on my SA RO compact. I found it to be thick as well. The roll marks are still completely visible. They do not look changed in any way. In the end it tuned out ok. I probably would not use it again though.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:57 AM
EvolutionArmory EvolutionArmory is offline
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Apply spray and bake coatings with an airbrush and most of your application problems go away. You don't need an expensive airbrush either.

Just a tip for when you do the next one.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:29 AM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
Apply spray and bake coatings with an airbrush and most of your application problems go away. You don't need an expensive airbrush either.

Just a tip for when you do the next one.
when you airbrush alumahyde2 do you thin it down ?
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:33 PM
wv109323 wv109323 is offline
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I used the alumahyde and it was went on thick and I had some runs at first. I was satisfied with my first attempt.
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2015, 09:44 PM
EvolutionArmory EvolutionArmory is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16-1911s View Post
when you airbrush alumahyde2 do you thin it down ?
I only use Cerakote and an airbrush now. I've use alumahyde in a rattle can once to paint a welded flash hider but I would never use it for a whole gun.

The beauty of the airbrush is the ability to control airflow and and spray volume. That is the key to getting uniform results with spray and bake coatings.

If you are going to use an airbrush, forget Alumahyde and just buy Cerakote. Follow the directions to the letter and it's hard to screw up.
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2015, 10:29 PM
kp321 kp321 is offline
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I have been using Duracoat in a cheap ($10.00) HF airbrush for several years with 100% success. Rattle cans are fine for painting the lawn chairs but not guns.
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2015, 12:06 AM
beretta92 beretta92 is offline
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I once used a rattle can of ceramic header paint on a Ruger P89 that I bought as a stripped frame & acquired a full kit from a demilled pistol..
I also baked the frame for several hours @ 200 degrees, I used several thin coats & had no problems, BUT I used to paint cars at a bodyshop, prep work is a factor..
Had $125 invested in that pistol & it sold for $400 at the gunshow..
Still have the can of paint BTW..
Also I made a picture manual for this pistol because there are none out there.
Ruger P-89 Disassembly Picture Manual By berettapistols

The pictures where from a ancient digi camera


Looked pretty darn good in person
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