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  #1  
Old 12-01-2015, 08:38 AM
Chiton guy Chiton guy is offline
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Clear coat for raw steel Hi Power?

One of my C&R Hi-Powers arrived without much finish at all. Rather than slow rust blue or duracoat, has anyone tried a clear coat type finish?

Opinions?
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2015, 09:02 AM
LowThudd LowThudd is offline
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There is a clear cerakote, but I haven't used it.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2015, 09:14 AM
AdamG247 AdamG247 is offline
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Interesting thought. Might look pretty nice if done correctly. Something like how Old Car restorations clear coat to maintain the aged patina.
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2015, 12:30 PM
drail drail is offline
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I have an old steel Springfield Mil spec frame that was bead blasted and coated with a clear Rustoleum oil based industrial enamel 20 years ago. Depending on how much and how roughly the gun is handled it holds up pretty well. There are a couple of small areas on my gun where worn the enamel has worn off ( the bottom rear of the frame where the MSH sits) and light surface rust started. I just wire brushed it off and re sprayed it. This gun was converted to a dedicated rim fire with a Ciener top end and I just never felt like spending the cash to have it refinished. (and since I haven't found ANY rimfire ammo for 2 or 3 years it has now become a safe queen). Clear coating will protect the gun almost as well as the new paint finishes that everyone is crazy about today. At least it's cheap to do and easy to redo. The cost of shipping and refinishing a gun today has gotten ridiculous.

Last edited by drail; 12-01-2015 at 12:32 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-01-2015, 04:27 PM
cavelamb cavelamb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowThudd View Post
There is a clear cerakote, but I haven't used it.
Cerakote requites the metal be glass beaded in order to stick.
There goes that shiny finish!

I have a Ruger Blackhawk - in the white now.
It's beautiful, and I like the shine.
Think I'll just keep it oiled.
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2015, 05:15 PM
drail drail is offline
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I got hooked on bead blast finish as soon as I noticed how much oil can hold on the surface the same way Parkerizing does. Oil is good.
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2015, 07:25 PM
Matquig Matquig is offline
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Renaissance Wax is used by museums to preserve and display bare metal object like armor, swords, relics, etc. It works well to keep rust off, but if a gun were carried, you might have to re-apply it weekly. It reportedly does not yellow or look ugly, as it doesn't 'build up" like other waxes do.
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2015, 09:33 PM
drail drail is offline
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But a piece on display in a museum is not really subjected to anything harmful compared to a working gun. Oil has been the preferred material for preventing corrosion a for very long time. In hot weather a wax finish will evaporate away in days. I know it sure doesn't last very long on my car. Oil will evaporate off too but it takes considerably longer.

Last edited by drail; 12-01-2015 at 09:36 PM.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:32 AM
Cappi Cappi is offline
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Tried some clear gun paint.
If I recall it Brownell label brand
Tried it on a mirror polished slide
Looked like hell and wouldn't stick

Spray lacquer was the only thing I found that would stick
But it's not terribly durable

The last polished in the white (po-boy chrome look)
I polished shinny with tripoli metal polish

I don't carry that pistol and it's always in a pistol bag.
But it's held up rust free for the most part going on a couple years now
The only place it shows the hint of rust is on the checkered front strap
(Where the tripoli polish couldn't be burnished on with cotton wheel


Only thing that bare polished metal has seen is burnished tripoli and gun oil

For a range gun that's oiled regularly and stored properly it will work

Wouldn't try it on a carry gun or working on crab boat or fish trawler


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  #10  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:33 AM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Anyone have pictures of a "bare blasted gun" with only clear coat or oil for corosion protection. The thought crossed my marble after I sandblasted my slide before painting.
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:39 AM
drail drail is offline
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I don't have any photos but it will look just like the gun did after bead blasting with a hint more sheen - depending on the type of enamel used (and how thick you apply it). Most of these enamel finishes have a very slight semi gloss sheen. I have not found any enamel finishes that are truly "flat". I have used clear enamel to protect the frame on race guns during testing until all parts have been fitted and run in. Once the gun runs 100% then it gets sent off for bluing or hard chrome finishing. I have also run several guns with no finish other than oil in the summer and had no problems with rust as long as the gun is wiped down with oil immediately every time the gun is handled. But forget to oil it back up just one time and you'll see some rust.

Last edited by drail; 12-02-2015 at 10:42 AM.
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:46 AM
153 153 is offline
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Traditional bluing doesn't really provide any "rust proofing" qualities.

Ren Wax should do fine, if you're not carrying the pistol.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2015, 11:18 AM
drail drail is offline
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Any oil will do fine on a "safe queen". On a working gun the trick is to keep reapplying oil when it needs it. What you use is not as important as staying on top of it. If you polish the metal to a mirror finish almost nothing will stick to the surface except bluing or hard chrome.

Last edited by drail; 12-02-2015 at 11:21 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2015, 02:44 PM
Viper_29 Viper_29 is offline
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There's plenty of C&R hipowers, I hope you're not destroying a wartime collectors piece with your refinishing.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2015, 03:56 PM
1saxman 1saxman is online now
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Eezox
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:20 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Mine is strictly a range gun as a 1911 is way to big/heavy for edc or vehicle carry for me anyway. So will the slide be ok with regard to corosion or rust with only a bead blast and some clearcoat. Asthethicly the slide looks just fine to me bead blasted. Very similar to my stainless SR 1911 imo. So what would be the process.....beadblast , clean with thinner, bake then spray the clear coat and bake again?
May not be the pretiest but its very economical.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2015, 01:35 PM
kp321 kp321 is offline
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I use a lot of Duracoat and have very good luck with it. They offer three clear coat options; gloss, matte and flat. One of those should be right for you.
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  #18  
Old 12-03-2015, 07:06 PM
Chiton guy Chiton guy is offline
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This Israeli bhp was all scratched up when it arrived from aim surplus, but the finish was some sort of plastic paint which comes off easily. The paint seems to have protected the metal underneath, because it is in great shape.

I've narrowed it down to the spray on no bake bluing or just a polished and oiled finish.
I've done the slow rust bluing before and well, life is too short.
Thanks, guys!
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2015, 09:29 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kp321 View Post
I use a lot of Duracoat and have very good luck with it. They offer three clear coat options; gloss, matte and flat. One of those should be right for you.
I beleive Im gona do just that, reason :well my finish was fine till I went to mount the dovetail sights and chiped the enamel to all hell redid it and its just one thing after another. A trip to the lgs just convinced me I know Im not crazy but look at a new SR1911 and the sides are to me lookin 95 % identical to bead blastin minus the top has a more polished but not reflective finish and a matte black frame and rosewood grips the way I see it if it good nuff for Ruger its good nuff for me. I know its a new gun but thats just me I can never leave '"%#@ alone. Ive already thought of worse case scenario it will cost me 65$ to have it ceracoated at the gunshop long as I give them a striped slide he has some of his work displayed out front and its light years ahead what I can do at home plus I can get my first choice od green color. And if something catastrophic happens to it hell they sell Para, Colt Sig fully asembled slides on ebay haha. One way or another Ill get the finish I want. Funny as long as Ive had my gen 2 Glock 17 -1993 I dont think I would change the tennifer finish on it I dont know if the newer units have the same finnish but I can tell you its tough almost scratch chip proof or maybe I havent tried hard enough haha.
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