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  #1  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:00 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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When coating / painting a 1911 slide.....

After miserable results painting my 1911 slide with alumahide 2 I spoke to Brownells tech and was told I was doing all right minus I did not blast the surface with 120 A.O. thus the paint from the go was powdery and and not sticking. Ok fair enuff as I for the hec of it picked up a random piece of pipe from the floor and sprayed some Alumahide 2 and wth it went on smooth and profesional mind you it was still dirty go figure. So my question is 1.do you scotch brite first then blast or vice versa and 2. If only 70 grit A.O can be found can I use it at a reduced presure / what presure ? 3. Can typical blasting media be used if A.O is not available whats the worst thing that can happen ? And 4. When blastin how do you know when the surface is ready ?
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:07 PM
EvolutionArmory EvolutionArmory is online now
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If you blast, any "prep" you did before hand is a waste of time unless you have really deep scratches that won't be covered up the bead blast. Then you need to sand out the deep scratches first. You don't need to scuff up the finish with scotchbrite before blasting. If your slide is in decent shape, blasting and degreasing is all you need.

70 is really coarse. You really should use 120.
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:14 PM
jamiesaun jamiesaun is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16-1911s View Post
After miserable results painting my 1911 slide with alumahide 2 I spoke to Brownells tech and was told I was doing all right minus I did not blast the surface with 120 A.O. thus the paint from the go was powdery and and not sticking. Ok fair enuff as I for the hec of it picked up a random piece of pipe from the floor and sprayed some Alumahide 2 and wth it went on smooth and profesional mind you it was still dirty go figure. So my question is 1.do you scotch brite first then blast or vice versa and 2. If only 70 grit A.O can be found can I use it at a reduced presure / what presure ? 3. Can typical blasting media be used if A.O is not available whats the worst thing that can happen ? And 4. When blastin how do you know when the surface is ready ?
1.neither. I don't scotchbrite at all, just blast it.
2. Yes, 70 can be used. Hold it far enough away that it strips the surface and try not to hold it any closer. You can lower the pressure if Ya want, say like 60 PSI. Maybe play around with it a bit.
3. All sorts of media can be used.
4.you'll know. The surface looks uniform and completely different when it's blasted. It should be obvious if you missed any spots.
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:17 PM
jamiesaun jamiesaun is online now
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Evo has got a point. 120 can be found pretty cheap. I get mine from Amazon.
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:31 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiesaun View Post
1.neither. I don't scotchbrite at all, just blast it.
2. Yes, 70 can be used. Hold it far enough away that it strips the surface and try not to hold it any closer. You can lower the pressure if Ya want, say like 60 PSI. Maybe play around with it a bit.
3. All sorts of media can be used.
4.you'll know. The surface looks uniform and completely different when it's blasted. It should be obvious if you missed any spots.
2ft away far enuff also can i use the general purpose 120 media / why do they recomend A.O ? Lastly (ive never done this before) how do you no when youve done enuff blastin or when its readt to paint ? Btw thanks for your input....
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:45 PM
jamiesaun jamiesaun is online now
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If you use 120 then don't worry about the distance. You probably wouldn't need to worry about it with 70 either. I've blasted with 70 before, but I don't remember at what pressure or distance. I'm pretty sure I didn't change a thing though, just blasted normally. Just bring the nozzle closer to the part until it strips down to bare metal, then try to keep it at that distance. Although it's not that big of a deal, try not to get too hung up on the distance, or the pressure.

But if you can get 120 then definitely use that. Yes it needs to be AO because beads don't etch the surface like AO does. It gives the paint something to stick too like roots do for grass. But I have blasted with beads and it does work, just stick with what they recommend, which is AO.

You'll know the surface is ready when it looks uniform and there's no scratches or shiny spots. The entire surface will look dull and exactly the same...uniform.

Tough to explain but you'll know it when you see it.
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Last edited by jamiesaun; 11-25-2015 at 05:54 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:56 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Ive already striped the blue off the new gun with vinegar so its free and smooth of any coating. Does that chage anything ?
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:58 PM
EvolutionArmory EvolutionArmory is online now
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See post 2
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  #9  
Old 11-25-2015, 07:41 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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Cerakote has some excellent directions on their web site that works great for other coatings.

Basically, use a solvent like acetone to thoroughly clean the part.
Then bead blast with the right blast media.
Read the directions on bead blasting closely about the proper type of media AND using CLEAN media.
Here's where a lot of people go wrong right at the start and use the wrong media, worn out media, or dirty/greasy media.

After blasting DON'T TOUCH IT with a bare hand or dirty glove, etc.
Bake in the oven for one hour at 300 degrees, pull out and look for any signs of oils brought to the surface.
If you see ANY, clean with solvent and bake again.
Repeat until there are no signs of oils, then bead blast again.
Use compressed air to blow the part off to remove any blast media from holes or crevices.

Then spray on the coating, making sure you keep the spray the correct distance from the part.
Too close and you get runs and sags.
Too far away and the spray starts to dry before hitting the part and you get a rough surface.

Here's their info, take a good read on the actual surface prep and spraying info.
Note also that many people read this, say "The Hell with it that's not necessary or it's too much trouble", then wonder why the finish doesn't turn out well or isn't durable.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/r...2082415WEB.pdf
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2015, 10:36 PM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Man that AO is some badass stuff very efficient indeed. Its all uniform for shure and surface feels like mild / soft sandpaper. Gona let it rip here in a little bit.
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  #11  
Old 11-26-2015, 12:19 AM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfariswheel View Post
Cerakote has some excellent directions on their web site that works great for other coatings.

Basically, use a solvent like acetone to thoroughly clean the part.
Then bead blast with the right blast media.
Read the directions on bead blasting closely about the proper type of media AND using CLEAN media.
Here's where a lot of people go wrong right at the start and use the wrong media, worn out media, or dirty/greasy media.

After blasting DON'T TOUCH IT with a bare hand or dirty glove, etc.
Bake in the oven for one hour at 300 degrees, pull out and look for any signs of oils brought to the surface.
If you see ANY, clean with solvent and bake again.
Repeat until there are no signs of oils, then bead blast again.
Use compressed air to blow the part off to remove any blast media from holes or crevices.

Then spray on the coating, making sure you keep the spray the correct distance from the part.
Too close and you get runs and sags.
Too far away and the spray starts to dry before hitting the part and you get a rough surface.

Here's their info, take a good read on the actual surface prep and spraying info.
Note also that many people read this, say "The Hell with it that's not necessary or it's too much trouble", then wonder why the finish doesn't turn out well or isn't durable.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/r...2082415WEB.pdf
By spray to far away and you get a rough surface. Do you mean a surface that looks powdery ? Ive Deblued cleaned preped baked and finally blasted with AO and repeated for this Alumahide2 and the paints going on just as before I blasted. Perhaps I didnt blast enuff it went from glass smooth to a mild grity sandpaper feel I dont know what else to do. My next move is using the can for AK plinking.

Last edited by 16-1911s; 11-26-2015 at 12:22 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-26-2015, 03:03 AM
16-1911s 16-1911s is offline
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Update....Extreme fail almost anyway....Q. when did I figure out what I was doing wrong. A. When I was out of my precious Alumihyde2 . Dam how cruel. It wasnt until I saw a few tutourials on Duracoat of all things that I caught the guy say 3-5" away in a back and forth motion, bingo I was more like 6-10" what a diffrence,,,,,it was drying up before contact making a mess. I had 2/10s of alumahyde left and 1/2 can of krylon camo both od I changed my poa and applied the Aluma first then finished up with the krylon. I was upset at first ,but no use crying bout it I learned valuble knowledge. Im gona leave it as is for now and when it its beat up again Im going with some Duplicolor Ceramic Engine paint. As I got good results with my pt709 .
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2015, 02:49 AM
mysquishy1215 mysquishy1215 is offline
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sandblast with 120 grit alluminum oxide this give the proper semi coarse texture for paints an cerakote to stick to, sand blast till you get a uniform look, dont skip the prep work, its the most important!
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