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  #1  
Old 01-19-2020, 01:30 PM
Bantry Bantry is offline
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Failure to feed question

My addiction continues as I just finished another 80% 1911...does it ever stop?

Anyway, before I put some kind of finish on the gun I test fired it. I had one failure to feed due to the fired case being hung up on the extractor. I only fired 10 rounds out of two mags (Wilson Combat) and the rest worked OK.

I'd like to hear what the guys on here who are so knowledgable think is most likely the problem. Extractor issue, just needs to break in, ???

Thanks for the help!
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2020, 01:42 PM
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RetiredRod RetiredRod is offline
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What ammo? Factory or your reloads? If reloads is it possible one round out of the ten was underpowered? The rearward slide velocity was too slow for the ejector to "kick" the empty case free from the extractor?

BTW, I'd call that a Failure to Eject.
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2020, 02:07 PM
jjfitch jjfitch is online now
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What recoil spring?

Must match ammo, but you already knew that!

Smiles throughout 2020,
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  #4  
Old 01-19-2020, 02:23 PM
Bantry Bantry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredRod View Post
What ammo? Factory or your reloads? If reloads is it possible one round out of the ten was underpowered? The rearward slide velocity was too slow for the ejector to "kick" the empty case free from the extractor?

BTW, I'd call that a Failure to Eject.
Yes, better description, "failure to eject".

Factory Remington 230gn RN.
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  #5  
Old 01-19-2020, 02:25 PM
Bantry Bantry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjfitch View Post
What recoil spring?

Must match ammo, but you already knew that!

Smiles throughout 2020,
Wilson Combat 18# spring.
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  #6  
Old 01-19-2020, 04:35 PM
Steve in Allentown Steve in Allentown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantry View Post
Wilson Combat 18# spring.
Factory 230gr FMJ should run just fine with a 14lb Wolff recoil spring (assuming this is a 5" 1911).
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  #7  
Old 01-19-2020, 05:22 PM
Bob Rockefeller Bob Rockefeller is online now
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How is your extractor tension? Does it pass the shake test?
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.45 ACP 1911s: Wilson Combat, Nighthawk, Colt, Dan Wesson, Springfield, Build No. 1
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  #8  
Old 01-19-2020, 05:33 PM
jjfitch jjfitch is online now
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18# vs. 16#

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantry View Post
Wilson Combat 18# spring.
Some people swear by the 16# (or less!) return to battery spring and a 23# main spring.

Why the 18#?

All the best,
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Gun Control: Acquire target, align sights, press trigger, only after you have identified your target and what is beyond it and made the decision to shoot!

Last edited by jjfitch; 01-20-2020 at 05:32 PM.
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  #9  
Old 01-20-2020, 10:08 AM
Bantry Bantry is offline
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Thanks once again for all the helpful suggestions. I still have some cosmetic (filing and sanding) work to do with this pistol before I put some kind of finish on it, but I wanted to make sure it worked ok.

When I assembled it for a test firing I used an 18# spring simply because that was the only spring I had available in my parts box.

Based on the expert advice here, I swapped out a spring from another pistol that I'm pretty sure is 16#. Problem solved...works fine now!

Just flexing the 16# and 18# springs in my hands the 18# did feel stiffer. Is there some simple way to determine if a spring is a 10#, 16#, or 18# if it is not labeled?

Last edited by Bantry; 01-20-2020 at 10:20 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2020, 02:34 PM
Steve in Allentown Steve in Allentown is offline
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Bantry, just an FYI for future reference.

I run the lightest possible recoil spring consistent with 100% functioning.

The video at the link below may give you some insights on recoil springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUecHstU4QQ
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2020, 02:48 PM
Bantry Bantry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in Allentown View Post
Bantry, just an FYI for future reference.

I run the lightest possible recoil spring consistent with 100% functioning.

The video at the link below may give you some insights on recoil springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUecHstU4QQ
Thanks, much appreciated.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2020, 09:33 PM
jjfitch jjfitch is online now
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Springs, springs, springs...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantry View Post
Thanks once again for all the helpful suggestions. I still have some cosmetic (filing and sanding) work to do with this pistol before I put some kind of finish on it, but I wanted to make sure it worked ok.

When I assembled it for a test firing I used an 18# spring simply because that was the only spring I had available in my parts box.

Based on the expert advice here, I swapped out a spring from another pistol that I'm pretty sure is 16#. Problem solved...works fine now!

Just flexing the 16# and 18# springs in my hands the 18# did feel stiffer. Is there some simple way to determine if a spring is a 10#, 16#, or 18# if it is not labeled?
Glad you were able to swap out the 18 for a 16# and solve your problem.

There is a balance for spring rates based on the original GI 230 grain cartridge. As far back as I can remember it has been 23# main spring and 16# recoil/return to battery spring. Changes in ammo may require a recoil spring change. "High speed low drag" competitors will work out spring rates for their particular gun, ammo and shooting style.

A couple of issues that get over looked are the dwell time at full recoil and the magazine follower spring. Changing a spring can lead to an unintended anomaly.

Let us also treat the extractor as another "spring" in the sequence of getting this thing to work as designed!

All the best in 2020,
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Gun Control: Acquire target, align sights, press trigger, only after you have identified your target and what is beyond it and made the decision to shoot!
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2020, 11:34 AM
Robin Hood Robin Hood is offline
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Ejector length is also a variable in this equation and I’ve found EGW’s extended ejectors to be the best choice leaving all the material one needs to fine tune and fit to the highest degree possible.
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