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  #1  
Old 03-21-2020, 07:55 PM
loneguitar loneguitar is offline
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Trouble removing magazine disconnect

Just got in a excellent condition Practical 2006. This is the 2nd HP that I've removed the mag disconnect. The first on i popped the pin in the trigger and out came the mag safety. This one.... no luck. Pin removed, lever pulled back and it's still locked in there. The other difference is this one is a metal disconnect instead of plastic. Could this be the issue? I've tried removing the trigger pin, but it won't budge. Any other suggestions? Don't really want to pay a smith unless necessary.
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2020, 09:37 PM
Thomgetch Thomgetch is offline
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You need to take the trigger out first to remove the mag safety. Early models you could do it as you described.
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2020, 09:47 PM
loneguitar loneguitar is offline
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This is how I did it on my 2016 model. But I feel like you may be correct. I tried using a 3/32 punch to remove it but didnít have any luck.
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2020, 10:25 PM
Thomgetch Thomgetch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneguitar View Post
This is how I did it on my 2016 model. But I feel like you may be correct. I tried using a 3/32 punch to remove it but didnít have any luck.


Remove what?
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2020, 12:42 AM
MaverickDMD MaverickDMD is offline
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Trigger pins only come out with a lot of force. Use penetrating oil and thoroughly tape up the area surrounding the pin. Try to use a cupped tip punch to hug the shape of the pin's domed head. Be very careful of the punch scurrying off target once hit and marking up your gun! (Hence the protective tape!). A nail set punch has a cupped tip and is a good starter choice before using the flat ended 3/32 punch.

Make sure you are hitting the pin out from the right/passenger's side towards the left/driver's side. Gun should be pointing to your RIGHT with the ejection port up.

And use a big heavy hammer to deliver a lot of momentum. One or 2 good heavy and accurate blows will get the pin down below the level of the frame to where it gets easier and less stressful. A small gunsmithing hammer won't cut it.

Hang in there. I did 2 of these today!

Last edited by MaverickDMD; 03-22-2020 at 10:44 AM.
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2020, 04:39 AM
Ibmikey Ibmikey is offline
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Don’t bugger your frame with a bunch of ill fitting tools, contact BH Spring Solutions and for a few bucks you get the tools that will remove the trigger pin properly. Or you can bang away and hope for the best.
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2020, 09:03 AM
BHP BHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaverickDMD View Post
Make sure you are hitting the pin out from the right/driver's side towards the left/passenger. Gun should be pointing to your RIGHT.
Uh, driver is on the left side of the car in the US.
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  #8  
Old 03-22-2020, 09:58 AM
TNorris TNorris is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaverickDMD View Post
Make sure you are hitting the pin out from the right/driver's side towards the left/passenger. Gun should be pointing to your RIGHT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BHP View Post
Uh, driver is on the left side of the car in the US.
Yes... the trigger pin should be driven from the ejection port side (right) to the slide stop side (left).

To get it moving, I have used a large sturdy punch with tape on the end. Once it starts to move I deploy the BHSS cupped punch or a properly sized flat punch to push the pin out.

When using only a pin sized punch, I have found that it may slip off and mar the frame even through any protective tape I have applied.
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  #9  
Old 03-22-2020, 10:32 AM
crasig crasig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaverickDMD View Post
Trigger pins only come out with a lot of force. Use penetrating oil and thoroughly tape up the area surrounding the pin. Try to use a cupped tip punch to hug the shape of the pin's domed head. Be very careful of the punch scurrying off target once hit and marking up your gun! (Hence the protective tape!). A nail set punch has a cupped tip and is a good starter choice before using the flat ended 3/32 punch.

Make sure you are hitting the pin out from the right/driver's side towards the left/passenger. Gun should be pointing to your RIGHT.

And use a big heavy hammer to deliver a lot of momentum. One or 2 good heavy and accurate blows will get the pin down below the level of the frame to where it gets easier and less stressful. A small gunsmithing hammer won't cut it.

Hang in there. I did 2 of these today!
YIKES - DISREGARD DRIVER/PASSENGER SIDE REMARKS (USA driver side is left) - Just drive FROM the domed (right side) protruding side - toward the flush side (left). Tape BEFORE applying penetrating oil.
I use half a cut Bottle Cap to support my trigger - while driving out the tiny link pin in the trigger. One of the pistol "work blocks" comes in very handy to hold the pistol while removing the trigger pin. As stated a nail set or spl punch is good to stay on the domed trigger pin. I made a dimple in one of my punches with a drill. BHS sells a special punch.

B - Careful C.,
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  #10  
Old 03-22-2020, 10:44 AM
MaverickDMD MaverickDMD is offline
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**corrected** sorry!
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  #11  
Old 03-22-2020, 12:03 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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Alternatively, polishing the face of the mag safety where it contacts the mags as well as polishing the front of your mags will also do wonders for lessening the effects of the mag safety.
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2020, 12:45 PM
loneguitar loneguitar is offline
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I had tried removing the trigger pun with just a standard 3/32 punch and tape. Unfortunately the punch did slip and put a small mark on the frame through the tape. So I went ahead and ordered the 3 punch set from BHSS last night. Lesson learned. Iíll report back later this week when they arrive.
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2020, 02:34 PM
rjinaz85308 rjinaz85308 is offline
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Instead of tape cut some pieces out of the side of a gallon plastic milk jug these can be use and are much tougher/thicker than tape


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  #14  
Old 03-22-2020, 03:12 PM
Thomgetch Thomgetch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneguitar View Post
I had tried removing the trigger pun with just a standard 3/32 punch and tape. Unfortunately the punch did slip and put a small mark on the frame through the tape. So I went ahead and ordered the 3 punch set from BHSS last night. Lesson learned. Iíll report back later this week when they arrive.


That pin is pressed in there tight. The first time it comes out it can be a bear. If at first you donít succeed find a bigger hammer.
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2020, 03:23 PM
rellascout rellascout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsk View Post
Alternatively, polishing the face of the mag safety where it contacts the mags as well as polishing the front of your mags will also do wonders for lessening the effects of the mag safety.
The contact point on the disconnect can help some but if you have factory phosphate mags polishing those will do more harm than good in terms of getting mags to drop free. Even a blued mags surface is slicker than most polish jobs.

Polishing does almost nothing to change the feel of the trigger and the negative effects of the mag disconnect in BHPs in my experience. There is a reason 99% of top BHP smiths yank those things out.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2020, 06:51 PM
goodag91 goodag91 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneguitar View Post
I had tried removing the trigger pun with just a standard 3/32 punch and tape. Unfortunately the punch did slip and put a small mark on the frame through the tape. So I went ahead and ordered the 3 punch set from BHSS last night. Lesson learned. Iíll report back later this week when they arrive.
I use the 3 punch set from BHSS and they work great. Haven't dinged up a frame once since I started using them.

Good luck,

Scott
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2020, 07:40 PM
loneguitar loneguitar is offline
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Update: BHSS punch set worked like a charm. I had to knock the snot out of the pin but it was a success. No more gritty disconnect. Hello smooth and crisp.
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