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  #26  
Old 12-25-2019, 03:05 AM
PBag PBag is offline
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Saddle soap and neutral shoe polish work well, neutral shoe polish prevents getting stains on your clothes and saddle soap feeds the leather.
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2019, 06:33 PM
Sconie Sconie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drail View Post
Yes, saddle soap for them too. That green stuff is called "verdi gris" (Latin for "green stuff") and it's caused by chemicals left in the leather from the tanning process reacting with the metal in the hardware. A small scrub brush and water will remove it. I would never ever use anything that can soften leather on a holster. Saddle soap contains lanolin which was present in the leather when it was on an animal and lanolin is what it needs - not oils or waxes. If you really want a soft holster then buy a nylon one. I would also never store leather hoksters in your gun safe. They will absorb and hold moisture and cause your guns to rust. Store them away from your guns.
"Verdi gris" is actually the word "verdigris," which comes from the old French word vertegrez, or "green of Greece."
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  #28  
Old 12-25-2019, 07:33 PM
FoxLikeMad FoxLikeMad is offline
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This is some very good info. I got a semi freak gun a Springfield armory trp 10 mm 1911 longslide and all I can find that would be a good fit is a custom leather holster. So this is solid gold info because I want to make it last and keep the holster and the gun as happy as I can therefore keeping me happy lol.
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2019, 07:50 PM
frogfurr frogfurr is offline
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The makers of premium leather holsters have already treated the leather when the holster was made. I doubt that I could do better than them shopping at Amazon.com.

When I treat the holsters I only protect what was put into them when they were made. Ren wax does that.

If I were fall into a lake or my holster gets soaked in a rainstorm that's a whole different story.

I would try saddle soap on a saddle or boots before trying it on a high quality holster. I did.

Last edited by frogfurr; 12-25-2019 at 08:03 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2019, 08:40 PM
Fatboy46 Fatboy46 is offline
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From working with saddles , etc. oil
Keeps them soft and pliable. Bought many a moldy, oiled saddle, scrubbed them, oiled them, sold them for 3x what I paid. The mold is on the oil and doesn’t hurt the leather. Keep your leather oiled. There are better products than neatsfoot, but are more expensive.
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  #31  
Old 12-26-2019, 06:06 PM
Unsprung2 Unsprung2 is offline
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I used to use the Neetsfoot to restore old classic car & Harley leathers, especially if nothing else worked; nothing to lose. A Buddy brought over his great old cowboy boots one night and completely destroyed them using the neetsfoot. The boots were so soft afterward the soles ripped loose! I’m a little older now and usually buy good leather holsters made from Herman Oak leather or similar with the leather lining which absorbs any moisture in the safe. Rennaisance Wax I can use on everything, including the gun itself! It helps protect my custom matte nickel finished pistols beautifully. For grins I even wiped down my P365 (removed Hogue grip expander), to my surprise it gave it a nice “Metal looking” finish! Can’t go wrong with this stuff!
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  #32  
Old 12-26-2019, 09:27 PM
AzRednek AzRednek is offline
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Wish I knew the formula. In the 70’s I had some US GI leather cream dressing dated 1950’s Korean War vintage. Worked better than anything else I’ve ever used on leather. I suspect it was lanolin based as it had a foul stench up close.

Last edited by AzRednek; 12-26-2019 at 09:36 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-29-2019, 09:39 PM
erf7 erf7 is offline
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I've never needed to treat any of my leather products with anything. I think part of this is due to the fact that I live in a pretty mild climate (WA state). It doesn't get extremely hot or humid here very often, so I think I am able to get away with this more than, say, someone in the south or on the east coast.
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  #34  
Old 12-31-2019, 07:10 PM
VetPsychWars VetPsychWars is offline
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Not all saddle soap is the same. I prefer Fiebing's glycerine.

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  #35  
Old 12-31-2019, 07:16 PM
frogfurr frogfurr is offline
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If you want something to prolong the life, waterproof, and keep the leather pliable use this. I use this on leather saddles, bridles, and hunting boots. I wouldn't use it on a high quality holster though.

https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leat...78143624&psc=1
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2020, 10:05 AM
b-b b-b is offline
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For those of you with Milt Sparks holsters, this is what is straight from their site. My guess is that it would apply to almost any modern high end holster.

"Nothing much needs to be done other than an occasional waxing to help maintain appearance. That applies to items with the smooth-out finish only! Rough out finishes such as on our SS-2 and Summer Special holsters, should be left as is except for maybe an occasional wipe down with a damp cloth. Waxing and polishing the rough-out finish only serves to negate the gripping qualities of the rough-out surface of the holster.

You can disregard most of the advice put out on the various internet forums suggesting applications for holsters that are better suited for a pair of boots, or on a saddle. On holsters and belts of our manufacture- do not use silicone, oil, or any leather conditioning product that advertises itself as an aid to help soften leather- Period!

Angelus has a product we use called Lustre Cream and it is available in both cordovan and black. Fiebings, Carnauba wax is also a good protectorate for smooth leather, but will oxidize on the leather surface if not used or buffed occasionally.

One product we recommend wholeheartedly is Renaissance Wax. Renaissance can be purchased direct from the above link, or you can purchase it directly through us. It is the only product we have found that will not permanently discolor our tan colored finish and it works great on black and cordovan finishes as well! You can even use it on metal and wood. We generally stock the small, 65ml tin for resale, as we found that a little bit goes a long way."
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