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  #1  
Old 08-10-2020, 04:54 PM
Flight Medic Flight Medic is offline
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Are the Stainless guns still Galling?

Want to get a new Valor, really like the magwell. Not sure if I should pay the extra $200 for the duty coat, but concerned about galling.

Anyone have a recent stainless 1911 from DW who could chime-in?
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2020, 06:00 PM
tgt_usa tgt_usa is offline
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Yes, recent DWs; no galling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flight Medic View Post
Want to get a new Valor, really like the magwell. Not sure if I should pay the extra $200 for the duty coat, but concerned about galling.

Anyone have a recent stainless 1911 from DW who could chime-in?
An in-the-white commander-sized “Valor”, .40 / 10mm convertible, is 3yrs old: no signs of galling. Now, I pretty well followed the break-in instructions.

Another, slightly older, in-the-white, commander-sized “Valor”, .45ACP, that I bought used: no signs of galling damage. Don’t know for certain that the original owner did by-the-book break-in ... but he logged every range session in the owner’s manual. So confident of adherence to the instructions, probably better than did I.

Too soon for me to recommend the Duty treatment other than on pretty ... and that it would -definitely- prevent galling. However, attention to refreshing lube has to be the most important element to prevent galling in-the-white: refreshing lube will give means for the surfaces to cool; carry away tiny fragments of steel that precipitate galling; and tend to hold the steel surfaces apart. Each of those reduces or removes a requirement for galling.
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Last edited by tgt_usa; 08-10-2020 at 06:56 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2020, 06:38 PM
Along Along is offline
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PM-9 and PM-45, 2020 versions, no galling, but now chrome plated.


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  #4  
Old 08-10-2020, 07:16 PM
gc45 gc45 is offline
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PM-9, Heritage, Valor Limited, Valor SS Commander, A2 Gov, A2 Commander all with no galling.
Before doing DW break-in procedures, I remove the barre then re-install the slide followed by 500 hand cycles back and forth with generous amounts of FP-10. Then run them for 400 rds or more wet, also with FP-10; seems to work ok to prevent galling.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2020, 08:03 PM
Flight Medic Flight Medic is offline
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Thank you, gentlemen.

My S&W e-Series stainless has not had any issues, but I've heard DW's have really struggled with this problem, with slides seizing-up and whatnot. Perhaps it was a bad production run? Makes sense about properly following break-in procedures, an ounce of prevention...right?
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2020, 08:35 PM
asierra350 asierra350 is online now
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An older production PM9 and a ‘19 specialist, no galling after utilizing break in instructions, the hammer on the PM9 has started to rust though even with lots of TLC
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2020, 08:37 PM
ZGrand ZGrand is offline
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No problems so far with my stainless DW Specialist.
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2020, 08:44 AM
tc215 tc215 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flight Medic View Post
Thank you, gentlemen.

My S&W e-Series stainless has not had any issues, but I've heard DW's have really struggled with this problem, with slides seizing-up and whatnot. Perhaps it was a bad production run? Makes sense about properly following break-in procedures, an ounce of prevention...right?
There was a run of guns in the first six months of 2015 that had issues. It's rare to see it now (or before then)...it's usually only an issue when someone doesn't run the gun wet enough, or uses a thin lubricant like RemOil, during break-in.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2020, 12:31 PM
2Guns 2Guns is offline
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I have a brand new (July 2020) VBOB .45 in stainless, 400 rounds fired so far and no issues. During this breaking period, i would apply some miltec lube after every 50 rounds. Functioning has been excellent, only two failures to go into battery during the first 300 rounds. I am very impressed with the fit, finish, accuracy and reliability of this pistol.

Last edited by 2Guns; 08-11-2020 at 12:35 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2020, 01:55 PM
gc45 gc45 is offline
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Will DW replace that rusty hammer?

GC45
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2020, 03:45 PM
asierra350 asierra350 is online now
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gc45, I’ve never heard of DW replacing them
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2020, 07:40 PM
Sweedgar Sweedgar is offline
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Send me your Stainless guns so I can dispose of the properly.
Thank you.
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2020, 07:46 PM
jonh1373 jonh1373 is offline
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I think the whole galling issue is over rated. I have a number of stainless DW and never an issue until i "heard" about it on the forum.
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  #14  
Old 08-11-2020, 08:12 PM
Autonomous Autonomous is offline
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I'm pretty sure the competent manufactures have figured out the alloys, hardness, clearances etc.
My SS TRP instructions do state SS needs more lube than carbon steel.
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  #15  
Old 08-11-2020, 08:25 PM
Bowdrie Bowdrie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flight Medic View Post
Thank you, gentlemen.

My S&W e-Series stainless has not had any issues, but I've heard DW's have really struggled with this problem, with slides seizing-up and whatnot. Perhaps it was a bad production run? Makes sense about properly following break-in procedures, an ounce of prevention...right?
Yes, over time their has been many posts about DW galling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc215 View Post
There was a run of guns in the first six months of 2015 that had issues. It's rare to see it now (or before then)...it's usually only an issue when someone doesn't run the gun wet enough, or uses a thin lubricant like RemOil, during break-in.
Many before 2015.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonh1373 View Post
I think the whole galling issue is over rated. I have a number of stainless DW and never an issue until i "heard" about it on the forum.
Not so,,.
Before I got a 1st year production, an ANIB 2009 Heritage, I went back thru this forum and read every post that had been made since 2009 that mentioned either the Heritage model or seizing/galling issues.
Their were lots of them.
That said, in response to a thread from a few months back, I undertook a project of setting-up some fixtures, and using a dial indicator and calipers, made measurements of frame/slide dimensions.
From those measurements the actual clearances were established between the frame and slide interfaces.
While I have not had any galling, I have had the slide "slow down", and have done smoothing and polishing work.
But, the gun still wants to be soaking/dripping wet,, ok, I exaggerate a bit.
Anyway, I still feel that the clearances on my gun are a little tight for "general purpose" use, I do feel that if the oil "went away", the gun would freeze-up pretty quick.

These are from the old post;
1, Lateral clearance between frame rail and slide, .001
2, Lateral clearance between slide rail and frame, .0015
3, Vertical clearance between frame rail and slide, .001
4, Vertical clearance between slide rail and frame, .002
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2020, 10:46 AM
tc215 tc215 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowdrie View Post
Many before 2015.
My response about 2015 was in reference to a bad run of guns.

As I said, generally, when galling issues occurred it was generally from people not following instructions or using a lubricant that was too thin. Occasionally, it would be from a manufacturing defect.
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2020, 11:46 AM
jonh1373 jonh1373 is offline
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I guess we are all entitled to have our own opinions regarding galling. Personally I don't put a lot of stock into opinions that are not from someone without a degree in metalurgy or similar background. Not trying to start an arguement, just saying what my beliefs are based on, which is science and cold hard facts.
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2020, 12:09 PM
Bowdrie Bowdrie is offline
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^ I can understand that.
Perhaps not germane to the discussion, but one of most common effects of stainless galling is in the area of fasteners, where it's sometimes quite easy for a nut to just "weld" itself onto a bolt.
In the marine field, concerning the use of stainless turnbuckles for sailboat rigging, one of the best products for lubrication of stainless was pure lanolin.
I've never tried it, but wondered how it would work on a 1911.
'Course we wouldn't want to have "soft hands" now would we.
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2020, 12:36 PM
gc45 gc45 is offline
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Having no experience myself however:
So let's say someone experiences galling between the slide and frame, ( saw it once on a Colt at LGS), what if any would be the result to operation of said pistol? Could a mild abrasive, run back and forth under the slide rails help smooth that out or, is the gun trashed?

GC45
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  #20  
Old 08-12-2020, 04:14 PM
Bob JD Bob JD is offline
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Refer to Post #4. I followed a similar procedure with my PM-9 and Valor and had no issues. Lube liberally with FP-10 and clean often during this procedure and you should not have an issue.
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  #21  
Old 08-12-2020, 04:36 PM
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AZ Husker AZ Husker is offline
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Too many people don't read the very specific instructions about breaking in and cleaning materials in the manual.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2020, 07:31 PM
mayor mayor is offline
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I own 2019 PM45 & PM 9 models, both stainless, followed break in procedure to 1000 rounds with FP 10. I cleaned each 1911 after each Steel shoot, inspect the rails and reapply new layer of FP 10. I have more range time with the PM 9 an still run it wet as they are tight 1911's and they shoot too.

Just run them wet with FP 10 and you'll be fine, no worries ..................
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2020, 07:50 PM
Autonomous Autonomous is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowdrie View Post
In the marine field, concerning the use of stainless turnbuckles for sailboat rigging, one of the best products for lubrication of stainless was pure lanolin.
I've never tried it, but wondered how it would work on a 1911.
I've used pure anhydrous lanolin on the SS turnbuckles on sailboats. It kept the threads from galling but they were difficult to adjust, that stuff felt like glue after a while. There was almost no need for keeper pins to prevent the turnbuckles from loosening.
Fluid Film wool wax is slippery but it has to have some sort of solvent in it. When dissolved in something like Ed's Red the lanolin has lubricity.
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2020, 08:45 PM
Bowdrie Bowdrie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autonomous View Post
Fluid Film wool wax is slippery but it has to have some sort of solvent in it. When dissolved in something like Ed's Red the lanolin has lubricity.
Thank you for the info.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2020, 08:57 AM
K38 K38 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Husker View Post
Too many people don't read the very specific instructions about breaking in and cleaning materials in the manual.
No doubt this is true; but do any other manufacturers of 1911's require this break-in period? I have a stainless PM-9 (no galling, it's been awhile, but probably I followed the break-in instructions) and two stainless Wilsons: no such break-in required. So just wondering--what's so special about the stainless DW's?
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