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  #1  
Old 08-07-2020, 05:57 PM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Finally, finished a 10!

After several years and two sales of acquired parts to build a 10mm, I got one finished and ready to test fire. After the necessary tuning Iíll do a final cosmetic finish.

This is actually the third group of parts I bought to build a 10mm. This one is a 5Ē gun. So I committed myself to this effort and honestly...getting excited about shooting it. This specimen is stainless on stainless. This post is some initial progress pics.

- Frame is new stainless Foster;
- Slide, stainless, sights, firing pin, firing pin stop and extractor are lightly used Caspian. I cleaned up the hook tune and still need to set the tension on the extractor;
- Sig ambi safety I wanted to try;
- Greider barstock slide stop;
-Nowlin barrel and bushing. I typically go Kart but couldn't pass this up at an unbelievable price a couple years back. It is a "drop in" type...nothing drops into a 1911 - LOL! Very impressive;
- Grip safety is NIW Kimber. I am not overly impressed with it. Configuration is nice. Execution leaves a bit to be desired. It was over finished for a gunsmith part and had annoying MIM sprue marks on the exterior. The sprue mark in the hammer spur cutout was really annoying.

The slide and frame fit meant ALOT of material needed to be removed. The right side rail way on the slide was not cut the same as the left side. The top of the way was a couple thousandth lower so caused some inconsistencies in fit. I had .0010' to .0013" fit in lateral and vertical slide/frame clearances front and rear EXCEPT the front lateral clearance. I had .0035". So I peened out the rails and got .0020" play. We'll see if it opens up after shooting it in.
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.

Last edited by Magnumite; 08-07-2020 at 06:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2020, 06:31 PM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Here are some interim pics. I added an
Ed Brown two piece magwell/mainspring housing.
Stippled the front strap, worked on blending some more.
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BEB68CCA-CFC1-4DA0-8AAA-2D0D2356310F.jpeg   38647CED-1A60-40CB-B6B9-25C8BDDA20DE.jpeg  
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2020, 06:34 PM
Hopknockious Hopknockious is offline
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Very nice work. You executed the grip safety nicely. Stippling is also very nice. Ejector looks very tidy as well.

Did you go with an unramped barrel to keep things simple?
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  #4  
Old 08-07-2020, 06:48 PM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Finally, assembled and ready to rest fired this weekend.

The nitride has been stripped from the ambi safety external surfaces;
Flats filed and sanded;
Wilson flat light weight flat trigger;
Brown Hardcore hammer and sear, EGW disconnector;
EGW plunger tube;
Rem R1 mag catch.

After trigger work the hammer drops at a consistent 3.6 pounds.
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.

Last edited by Magnumite; 08-07-2020 at 07:17 PM. Reason: pics didnít load
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  #5  
Old 08-07-2020, 07:22 PM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Thank you, Hopknockious. I went with the unramped barrel on this pistol because the cost was exceptional. I’ve fitted both Clark/Para and Wilson/Nowlin barrels as well. I don’t have any hang ups with doing any of the three.
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  #6  
Old 08-07-2020, 08:48 PM
RexipusRex RexipusRex is offline
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Nice! This brought back memories of my first project (I've only done two), which was also a Caspian slide on a Foster frame (Foster is the "factory seconds" brand from Caspian, to those who don't know), with mostly Caspian other parts used. My Foster frame had one or two tiny voids somewhere that broke the surface and were visible, and they more or less disappeared again by the time it was finished. I can't even remember where they were now.

My big takeaway from that project was that I don't want to do stainless again. :-) Apparently you did it better than me; I galled my slide and frame together 4 or 5 times while fitting them, and that's the story of how I Googled up "stainless steel galling" and learned a few things.

You mentioned a magwell/MSH combo. Is that what that hole and the other little rectangular hole is in the bottom of the MSH is for, some kind of attachment point for the magwell? Have you got any photos with the magwell installed? Btw, when I bought the parts for my Commander project I went with the Caspian frame that had a magwell cast in as part of the frame. I think it's a nice option.

How long did it take you to stipple that thing by hand? I can only imagine.

I hope you'll post an AAR of how your initial shooting test goes this weekend.
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2020, 07:00 AM
car5car car5car is online now
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10mm bullet has about 50% more energy than 45, you need to use strongest recoil spring. Rubber buffer is a good idea.
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Last edited by car5car; 08-08-2020 at 07:03 AM.
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  #8  
Old 08-08-2020, 07:05 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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It took a few hours to do the front strap. Half hour or so to lay out the lines,about two to three hours to punch the borders. Another two to three to fill it in and an hour or two to polish it up, the saying goes.

The stainless is unforgiving with respect to galling. My experience has been parallel sides and a smooth polish go a long way to reducing the tendency.My sons pistol ran like a scalded dog on its first six times out including a steel match. Joy ride number seven it galled some. I opened up the clearance about .0005-.0008” and its been clear-sailing.

The hole on the bottom of the mainspring housing is where the mag funnel attaches. Attached are pics of the last pistol I used the same Brown part on.
Attached Thumbnails
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.

Last edited by Magnumite; 08-08-2020 at 08:02 AM.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2020, 09:28 AM
Greg Derr Greg Derr is offline
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Very nice job.
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2020, 09:43 AM
Jim Watson Jim Watson is online now
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Looks good but an out of spec Caspian slide is disquieting.

Quote:
Slide... lightly used Caspian.
...The right side rail way on the slide was not cut the same as the left side.
Made that way or boogered up in previous incarnation?
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2020, 09:59 AM
RexipusRex RexipusRex is offline
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That magwell looks like a pretty easy solution, and it also looks like it would make speed reloads exceedingly easy.

Grats on your project! One last question: are you considering some sort of finish on it? I don't mean necessarily a coating or whatever. I picked up a bag of fine glass bead media online, bought a cheapo blasting gun from Harbor Freight, and did my stainless 1911 project out in my driveway, shooting down into a large cardboard box. Yeah it was messy, but I had a tight-fitting ventilator and goggles on, and the worst thing was I had a bit of a sheen of glass beads on the driveway for a little while. The satin look and feel are fantastic on stainless.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2020, 11:45 AM
yeti yeti is offline
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Looks very nice, Magnumite. Clean and tidy. That stippling on the front strap should provide solid traction.
I think the 10 is a perfect match for 1911 platforms.
Curious to see what finish you decide on. Enjoy it!
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2020, 07:55 AM
javaduke javaduke is offline
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Wow, love the stippling! A rare sight in the modern world of CNC machine checkering :P
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2020, 09:04 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Hi, thank you for the kind words. For final finish intentions are a matte sanded finish. The frame now is primarily textured in 220 grit. The slide flats something in the 400 - 600 range, I guess. Matching the paper grit to the present texture will tell. I plan on texturing the flats on the thumb safeties and slide stop between the two, to ‘bring the parts out’. Yeah, I took some drawing and painting classes. I have debated blasting all but the flats.

The stippling is fun. Kind of therapeutic. I use a lathe bit as the tool.that and about 10k hammer blows. Yes, I kinda of counted a section then did the math.

The slide issue is disheartening, but at least I learned how to deal with a similar issue next time it occurs. It is a definite mismachine. When I was mapping out the slide and frame dimensions to fit the two is when I determined it was a boo-boo. I remeasured several times to recheck conclusion and in denial but always came to the same conclusion. But being used I felt it was my issue. If I had bought it new, I would have sent it back to Caspian. That issue, as you can see in the frame/slide clearances did compromise the outcome, hence the peening. Now I can identify what I’ll call secondary contact impressions cause by abnormal fit. My experience with the 1911 has been:
- first, fitting the parts together for close clearance for enhanced operation;
- second, measure the components first, its not just fitting and clearances;
- third, where some of the borders are for ‘usable’;
- fourth, lots of clues along the way.

Sorry about the long winded response.
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2020, 10:26 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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I did shoot it yesterday. I tested fired with factory ammo to establish a baseline. I shot one box of 50 rounds of Herter’s 180 grain truncated cone ammo. Rated velocity was 1250 fps forst time I checked. Can’t find the info now since the product line seems to be dropping from the exclusive Cabela’s/Bass Pro Shop lineup.

Recoil is not bad at all, a little snappier than 45 ACP at 890 fps. Ejection was good, though chasing the cases required a slight hike in the 4:30 direction. Fortunately they were in the same area. The pic of the fired cases show a slight tail (firing pin swipe). I’ll up the mainspring to 28 pounds. The firing pin stop seems to do its part from the feel of the firing impulse. I was going to remove the 20 pound recoil spring and install an 18 pound part but somebody forgot the bushing wrench. The pic of fired cases show sharp shoulders on the primers. This isn’t a pressure issue since they look that flat unfired. Also there is no smiley face on the head of the case. I have a good case head support.

Targets were shot two handed standing at 25 yards, with my usual called fliers. The black target was the second group shot. The first group was low off the target. What you see are shots from the second mag using a six o’clock hold. 7 shots from the magazine are on target. One round from the 8 round mag was fired at a piece of clay bird on the berm 33 yards away. Smoked it! The bullet strikes are circled to identify them. Yours truly will take credit for the high right and high left holes. Sometimes the sights wander a little high into the bottom of the bull. I can rush shots here and there.

The two white targets are the first group of 7 rounds, the second an 8 round group on top of the first. The three high impacts circle were called. I later adjusted the sights for windage and elevation.

I like the 10mm so far in a 1911.
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.

Last edited by Magnumite; 08-09-2020 at 05:47 PM.
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  #16  
Old 08-09-2020, 05:52 PM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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I just shot it again today. I shot the 45 next to it. The 10 is snappier but very tolerable, fun really. Groups tightened up a bit, but that is probably more me being a little more familiar with the gun. I replaced the 26 pound mainspring with a 28 pound mainspring. That took a little more zing out of the recoil, eliminated some of the slide slap, too. Not much of the firing pin swipe is is remaining as well.
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2020, 07:01 AM
Jolly Rogers Jolly Rogers is offline
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You peened the frame rail to reduce the lateral clearance? Just to be clear as I can’t imagine a way to peen the slide way. That would actually be a point where a squeeze would help no?
Joe
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Old 08-10-2020, 07:12 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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I used glancing blows along the surface of the rails outward. The taps start or the solid part of the solid part of the frame not over the frame ways. The vertical clearance was good so I didn’t want to disturb that relationship. I was pushing the metal to the outside. I doubt it will stay closed up. Today I plan to disassemble it and check clearances and wear patterns. Whatever it has settled at, I’m not too worried, it shoots tight.

I did check the slide ways side to side dimensions with gauge pins and they were parallel. The pins were actually drill bits. Maybe their length masked the unlocking width being cut too far back. I will cut and smooth the bits to make them shorter. Hate to do that because they are easier to manipulate with length and traction from the twist end.
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:57 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Well I did the disassembly and the inspection. Here are the goods.

Slide/frame clearances are:
Vertical: front .0015”. rear .0010”
lateral front: front .0025”. rear .0018”

I had a very slight barrel bump when I fit the barrel. In the Wilson Combat forum on this site I read where a smith posted some bumps are incidental and won ‘t cause issue. Class was in session so I thought I would try it. From operating under dynamic conditions the bump was readily apparent so I corrected it.

This pistol didn’t feed as smooth as I typically get a 9 or 45 to feed, but I wasn’t familiar with the 10mm. I thought maybe it was the norm. The rough feeding smoothed some with the bump eliminated but was still apparent.

Again, my hesitation led to less that stellar results. I investigated the rough feeding and bullet noses and narrowed it down to the barrel ramp (throat). It was just forward of the frame ramp not the sited .030” minimum. This was done in the interest of preserving case support and not having a jig to widen the throat (ramp). I’ve ground barrel throats before but prefer to leave them and just polish and chamfer.
So I set the bottom of the barrel throat forward at the bottom. I widened the throat some, smoothed and polished the throated areas an knocked down the corners of the throat. Smooth feeder now. And maintained my original case support.

Pics show case support in the barrel and scribed line outside of barrel.
Attached Thumbnails
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.
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Old 08-17-2020, 09:56 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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After some cosmetic touch up, hereís the goods. Thank you for your input.
Attached Thumbnails
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The modern production 1911 - high visibility sights, beavertail grip safety, aluminum trigger, good trigger pull, enhanced slide/ frame fit, accurized barrel/bushing fit. If itís not a Kimber, itís a copy.
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  #21  
Old 08-18-2020, 03:23 AM
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Question for the folks that have 10 mm 1911s: Is firing pin drag on the primer typical; or is that a sign of something that is not quite right?

See OP's fired case picture below:

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  #22  
Old 08-18-2020, 05:08 AM
Rwehavinfunyet Rwehavinfunyet is online now
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1911 10mm build

First off, nice gun build.....I don't think people understand how much time it takes to make a nice 1911 gun build such as your 10mm.....

If your gun cycles and feeds properly, and the fired cases are ejecting anywhere from 4-8 ft. from the gun when testing off-hand, you should be fine. Since the 10mm with a hot load can generate more power than some .45acp loads, you might expect slightly further ejection of the fired cases.

The picture showing the primer hits on your fired cases does not look bad to me.... the hits are well centered on the primer, not really elongated hits, and the primers show some slight flattening.....which may be normal. It all depends on the brand of primers used. CCI large pistol primers are slightly harder than other brands, and Federal large pistol primers may have a slightly thinner cup which may cause flattening and elongated primer strikes.....yet this may be fine for shooting hot 10mm loads.

Primers hits that are slightly elongated are usually caused by "firing pin drag." If the a fired cartridge unlocks the gun very fast due to higher pressure, the firing pin may still be slightly forward of the breech face when the barrel starts to unlock and tilt down, and create a "smear" of the firing pin hit on the primer. Wolff gun springs usually supplies a new firing pin spring when you purchase their recoil springs. You may want to check the firing pin hole in the breech face to make sure the firing pin you are using is not binding. I usually remove the slide, and with the slide in hand, I take a small punch and push the firing pin in as far as possible to see if there is any drag. I will usually use a small round needle file to ream the firing pin hole of the breech face if needed.....it doesn't take much. You might try large rifle primers with a harder primer cup, but reduce your loads 10% if you reload. Wolff gun springs does sell "extra power" 1911 firing pin springs for $3.49 each which may help to reduce the chance of a smeared primer......

When I competed in USPSA when the power factor was 170, some people had issues with smeared and flattened primers with hot loaded (over SAMMI spec) .38 super loads. Many switched to using Small Rifle primers....which helped to reduce firing pin drag and overly flattened primers......

Last edited by Rwehavinfunyet; 08-18-2020 at 05:21 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2020, 08:05 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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I should have posted a pic of the second round of cases I shot after replacing the 26 pound mainspring with a 28 pound main spring. Most of the firing pin drag was alleviated. There is still a little of it remaining and the slide slap is lessened. I think what I am going to do is use an EGW flat bottom firing pin stop and put the Harrison grind on it. I also didn’t polish the EB firing pin so I’ll try that and smooth the fp bore in the slide as well. I don’t think a 22 pound recoil spring will do much since unlocking is the issue and feeding is not.

I’ve experienced a gun with firing pin swipe before...a 45 ACP. During practice one day I fired a magazine of ball in my steel gun. I wondered why the muzzle flip and recoil was ignorant. The fired case had a firing pin swipe. Lessons learned.
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  #24  
Old 08-18-2020, 09:45 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Here are pics of fired cases with the 26 pound mainspring and 28 pound mainspring. Each is labeled 26 and 28, respectively. To the naked eye is was readily apparent. Under macro pic and magnifying glass the swipes are present but not as severe.
Attached Thumbnails
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