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  #101  
Old 12-10-2011, 04:30 PM
JackedLobster JackedLobster is offline
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Oh no..

Hey fellas,
I took out the mag safety this afternoon and the trigger is sticking in the rearward position and has to be dislodged. Can't get the hammer to drop even WITH a magazine, now. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't know what's up.

Last edited by JackedLobster; 12-10-2011 at 04:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #102  
Old 01-13-2012, 11:22 AM
patrol patrol is offline
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caution

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomadz View Post
Fully restored then lubricate and reassemble here the Browning FN frame
and FM after the mag disconnectectomy



Fully restored with no disconnects trigger pull is nicer and the gun is improved as a carry gun in my own opinion.




Presented for information only if you do this modification it is at your own risk and should be checked by a gunsmith qualified to examine the pistol before use. .......................enjoy.

I did this and now I'm having problems with the hammer resetting. I'll let you know what my gunsmith tells me because I agree it does make the trigger more smooth which has improved my accuracy as well.
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  #103  
Old 04-15-2012, 01:14 AM
hangdog hangdog is offline
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and again.....

Honorable Mr. Camp and magazine disconnect issue

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I must admit to missing Mr. Camp and his MANY contributions! I do have a signed copy of his book about the BHP's and have recently had cause to do some review of it and web searching....here I am. BHP 75th year MK III.

I am reading about removing the magazine disconnect; some forum members are writing about reinstalling the plunger/foot with some loctite in order to correct a percieved change in the trigger return or pull?? Only a couple mentioned this, and nothing by Camp about this practice; what gives? Any validity to the need to replace any of the 2 parts removed?

I tried a good brass punch today on the well supported frame/trigger pivot pin...had to stop before I got too agressive.

Many thanks for your responses
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  #104  
Old 04-23-2012, 11:55 PM
jfa25 jfa25 is offline
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Thanks for the post. Took me 20 minutes to take out. Would have been less had I not been nervous on messing something up lol
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  #105  
Old 04-24-2012, 12:58 AM
Burgs Burgs is offline
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Hangdog,

Mr. Camp commented on the Loctite plunger idea in one of his forum replies.
He was not a fan of the idea.
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  #106  
Old 06-09-2012, 02:10 AM
Raymond759 Raymond759 is offline
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This is a long but useful thread. I've removed the mag safety from a FEG FP9 this week. The mag safety pin appeared to be peened on both sides. It was difficult and took a good whack to break free with an 8 oz steel hammer. As they say, your mileage may vary.

With regards,

Ray
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  #107  
Old 07-20-2012, 08:03 PM
mike merkler mike merkler is offline
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Got mine done just now on an old MK III. Took about 15 minutes and it does make a difference.
Mike
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  #108  
Old 07-23-2012, 09:26 PM
Dentite Dentite is offline
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In concept this is pretty easy but wow those trigger pins are in there tight.

I gave it a couple good wacks to no avail and then utilized a bit more mechanical advantage:



Started with a larger punch to get it going:


Done:


And the frame is unscathed:


Also did this on my Israeli:
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  #109  
Old 08-26-2012, 03:01 PM
racine racine is offline
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Thanks for the tips...

I inherited 2 BHPs from my father in law and one is heavily used and without the mag safety. I've been shooting it in NRA action pistol but it is not as competitive yet with the trigger and one bad mag. The other is a Belgian made assembled in Portugal that is totally new. I used the older BHP to get a feel for the technique of removing the trigger and used that experience on the new one. Yes it took some good whacks with a good punch and hammer but the pin moved on the 2nd hit. The trick is to not have the punch fall off the pin and scratch the frame.
What did help was using a large flat 1/4" punch and having that surface area to stay on the pin till it moved. When the pin moved to 1/16" from the frame I changed punches to one smaller than the pin hole and finished.
A key step in reassembly to tyros is when you assemble the trigger back into the slot is to make sure that 'lever' or disconnector, whatever it's called in in it's slot and that the entire back of the trigger is inside the housing before you start tapping the pin back. If not doing so will lock the trigger and possibly damage the assembly. I used a punch to start the pin on the right side and tapped the pin from the left till it was seated flush.
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  #110  
Old 08-26-2012, 07:31 PM
Joe-KC Joe-KC is offline
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Many thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I just completed the process on my Mark III Practical. The whole process took about 15 minutes, which included getting the tools assembled. The trigger feels great. We'll see how she handles on the range tomorrow. Thanks again for the great info. - Joe
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  #111  
Old 09-16-2012, 12:25 PM
Mossyrock Mossyrock is offline
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You know, I've removed the mag safety from over a dozen Hi Powers over the last 30 years. I have NEVER had a trigger pin as tight as the one in my newly acquired lightweight alloy-framed Hi-Power! I can get the trigger pin down flush with the frame, but no farther. I just dowsed it with Liquid Wrench, and after letting it sit for a while, I'll give it another go. Looks like it's time to get out a bigger hammer.....
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  #112  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:02 AM
Strontium90 Strontium90 is offline
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You called it both a magazine safety and a magazine disconnect. The correct term for it is a Disconnect. To call it a safety which you now removed would suggest now rendering the weapon less safe to use than it was originally manufactured which would not be true. The Magazine Disconnect was a French idea to add on the gun and not part of the original Browning design.
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  #113  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:10 AM
Strontium90 Strontium90 is offline
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You do not have to remove the trigger from the gun to pull out the Magazine Disconnect, and it is not a safety. Simply support the trigger, drive out the pin in the trigger just enough to allow the "Disconnect" to slide out while you wiggle the "Trigger Lever" back and to the side which will cause the Disconnect to pop out.
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  #114  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:14 AM
Strontium90 Strontium90 is offline
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The Trigger Pin on the Browning Hi Power is tapered to be removed from right to left and installed from left to right.
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  #115  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:19 AM
Strontium90 Strontium90 is offline
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A lot of people will be damaging their Hi Power pounding out that Trigger Pin which is tapered when all you have to do is support the trigger, partially push out the tiny pin holding the Disconnect, and remove it from the gun.
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  #116  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:35 AM
LastRites LastRites is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strontium90 View Post
You do not have to remove the trigger from the gun to pull out the Magazine Disconnect, and it is not a safety. Simply support the trigger, drive out the pin in the trigger just enough to allow the "Disconnect" to slide out while you wiggle the "Trigger Lever" back and to the side which will cause the Disconnect to pop out.
On some older models you can do this, on newer models you cannot.
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  #117  
Old 10-23-2012, 09:32 PM
bill5074 bill5074 is offline
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Still don't know why you guys remove the mag disconnect. Have not heard a good reason yet. What purpose does that serve ?
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  #118  
Old 11-01-2012, 12:31 PM
GunBugBit GunBugBit is offline
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Can't think of, nor have I heard/seen, a good reason for leaving the mag disconnect in!
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  #119  
Old 12-02-2012, 09:38 PM
joken joken is offline
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I had a beautiful highly polished blued BHP. I couldn't get the damn pin out so I took it to my GS. He got it out and buggered up the bluing in the process. I sold him the gun. Fast forward, I just bought a like new one of these (see below) and if it gets buggered, I'd rather do it myself. The yuck on the trigger is lighting. Ken
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #120  
Old 12-02-2012, 11:23 PM
iim1awh iim1awh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joken View Post
I had a beautiful highly polished blued BHP. I couldn't get the damn pin out so I took it to my GS. He got it out and buggered up the bluing in the process. I sold him the gun. Fast forward, I just bought a like new one of these (see below) and if it gets buggered, I'd rather do it myself. The yuck on the trigger is lighting. Ken
[IMG][/IMG]

So you where the lucky one that scored that over on NWFA.
I was drooling over that one.

Nice score,

Andy
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  #121  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:20 AM
Arley Arley is offline
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Just do it

Just completede this procedure on my FM. Detective. It went so easy
The mag drops like it's afraid. Not sure if it reduced the trigger pull but it is sure nice not to have to pull the mag out by hand.
Thanks for the thread and everone that has responded. It helped me to decide to do it. " JUST DO IT "

Arley
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  #122  
Old 04-05-2013, 04:23 PM
M-a-v M-a-v is offline
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Not hard to do... Just be careful!!

Thanks to everyone for the tips and photos on doing this, big help
I did it on my 1992 MK III. took about 30-45mins.
With this newer model, yes the trigger pin had to be removed to get the mag disconnect / safety out. I can can confirm the trigger pin is removed from right to left and installed from left to right

Be careful when doing this.. if it doesn't move.. check your direction. Be mindful of punch, it can slip of the pin... Use good tape/cover to protect the frame...

Don't be an idiot like me and whack it the wrong way around..
I was trying to remove the pin left to right.. a few good whacks I thought the pin moved.. turns out the punch slipped scratching/ marring the frame the tape I used to cover the pin/frame was some old black tape, which just slipped around from the blows, I didn't notice the marring until i removed the tape
Pics included, so others can learn form my mistakes ..


Flipped the gun a around and a few good whacks and good tape and support of the punch (put my fingers on ether side of it) and the pin was out.
followed some of the tips here on putting it all back to together, and done.
The trigger is now much lighter and more crisper.. diffidently better feel to it.
Now to test it on some bowling pins this weekend..
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  #123  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:52 PM
Arley Arley is offline
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Sorry

Sorry that happened, been there done that.

Tape slipped when I was removing a sight, Two nice half circle marks.

Taking that mag safety really does work though.

Arley
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  #124  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:25 PM
JLeephoto JLeephoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-a-v View Post
.. turns out the punch slipped scratching/ marring the frame the tape I used to cover the pin/frame was some old black tape, which just slipped around from the blows, I didn't notice the marring until i removed the tape
I have to admit to a similar experience. As careful as I was after reading these threads, I punched a pin size whole in a set of gorilla brand duck tape and [I]thought[I] I had taped up my very clean polished blued '89 Hi Power very well. But I had to hammer away to get the pin loose with multiple slip and it turns out my punches pierced the tape leaving little nicks all the way around the pin.
I'm thinking about stippling that area of the frame to make it look intentional.
Oh well, all my guns are shooters anyway and I doubt I'll ever sell. When the bluing's worn away, a refinish will make her good as new.
Still, if you're the type to get really twisted up over a few scratches, and have a tight pin, you probably should take it to a pro.

Last edited by JLeephoto; 04-07-2013 at 09:27 PM.
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  #125  
Old 04-07-2013, 10:02 PM
RodII RodII is offline
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I removed mine today, took about 15 minutes, no problems. I have a section of 5/16" brass rod that I used to drive the pin flush with the frame, it took a couple of good whacks. Then I used a nail set to drive the pin slightly below frame level, then a punch to finish driving it out. I removed the pin from the trigger first to try removing the disconnect without removing the whole trigger but it was a no go.
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