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  #76  
Old 03-08-2010, 03:19 AM
trebb trebb is offline
 
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i'm new to this forum and i want to say hello to everyone. i want to thank mr. nomadz for his very informative pictograph. i've always wanted to remove the mag safety in my bhp but quite hesitant to do it, afraid to damage the gun, but finally have a go when i saw mr. nomadz's step-by-step pictograph. what i did was tap the pin a little (from the trigger finger side) and place a finger on the opposite side of the pin to feel if it'll move. mine came out easily. again. thanks a lot mr. nomadz.
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  #77  
Old 08-29-2010, 11:29 AM
Blackmore Blackmore is offline
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I just got a NOS FEG P9M from TGI. After reading through this thread carefully, I chose to merely drive the mag disconnect retaining pin from the trigger with the trigger in a supported position. It took longer to cut the support block than to drive the pin out (left to right) with 3 whacks on my smallest diameter rollpin punch.

Trigger pull is noticeably improved and every magazine I tried now drops free where they didn't before. Thanks to the OP for the tutorial and initiation of this discussion.
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  #78  
Old 10-29-2010, 05:41 AM
pjstreng pjstreng is offline
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My recent experience

I have a new BHP that was manufactured in the last year. Could not remove the mag safety by simply removing the trigger pin. Had to remove the whole trigger assembly. It was easy, all pins came out (right to left) with little effort. The whole process was a "no brainer" and the result was fantastic: went from a creepy, gritty trigger pull to a very clean break.

Last edited by pjstreng; 10-29-2010 at 05:43 AM. Reason: error in post
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  #79  
Old 10-30-2010, 11:12 AM
HCSO249 HCSO249 is offline
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Well, I did mine last night and took less than 5 minutes start to finish. HUGE improvement from what it was. Nice and smooth and light...Just the way John Browning meant it to be!

Now for the sights! I've got the Bomar adjustable rear with dovetailed Tall front. It's not a "tactical" non-snag type set up and a bit of a pain to find decent holster without fear of snag & dragging the tall sight.

Anybody got an idea of fairly inexpensive replacements? I was looking at the Hi-Viz sights but not sure if rear dovetail will be proper size.
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  #80  
Old 11-22-2010, 10:08 PM
number9 number9 is offline
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Thanks for this how-to and pics. Just did mine tonight and look forward to shooting it this weekend.

......
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  #81  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:45 PM
Bullseye1911 Bullseye1911 is offline
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Finally did mine tonight

it took probably 10 mins

The trigger pull may be alittle less than what it was

but one thing it did help for sure is the trigger has a clean break now, it does not feel gritty at all
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  #82  
Old 11-28-2010, 11:18 PM
number9 number9 is offline
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Shot 200 rounds today with the BHP with mag safety removed and the M&P with APEX kit installed and I REALLY LIKE THIS BHP.

Thanks again for the how-to.

...
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  #83  
Old 12-06-2010, 04:20 PM
jstchur jstchur is offline
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Putting the claw back in to improve trigger

Quote:
Originally Posted by todd10 View Post
If you really want to make it better, disassemble the trigger/mag safety from the pistol. Take out the mag safety pin, mag safety plunger will shoot out if not held in place with a piece of black electrical tape. Press down on the tape and it will make an impression where the pin is. Knock the pin out, take the tape loose while holding the mag safety. Remove the spring and tape, clean the trigger assembly and the mag safety with brake cleaner. Let dry, then apply #609 green Loc-Tite to the mag safety tube and install in the trigger with the claw side down. Let assembly sit for 3 hours with the trigger upright on the mag safety on a piece of wax paper. The claw with act as a trigger over travel/reset reducer. With the hammer down you will notice just under 1/8" travel, with the hammer fully cocked just under 1/16" to sear engagement. You probably could mill off a minute bit off of the back of the trigger before installing the mag safety, but it will only improve it by a minute fraction. Any more than doing it this way will result in the trigger bar hitting the slide on reassembly. Even though the mag safety is in there it no longer is a mag safety. The mags drop free and you will have a much more likable trigger job without more over travel and reset and for only the cost of a small tube of #609 Loc-Tite and 3 hours of patience.
Was this supposed to reduce the trigger "creep"...pull before it engages the sear (is creep the correct term)? After reading your post and carefully inspecting the gun - it seemed to make sense that it would do exactly that. So, I did this but instead of loctite, I hit the shaft of the mag safety plunger with a hammer just enough to bend it slightly. Then tapped it back into the trigger with a small hammer. There is more than enough pressure to permanately keep it in place in the trigger
However, sad to say that I still have an acre of trigger creep before it engages the sear though. So, maybe not worth the effort (for me anyways). It is a brand new 75th one BTW. Is there anything that can be done to eliminate the trigger creep? This bugs me more than the hard pull I think.
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  #84  
Old 01-01-2011, 07:30 PM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
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I just recently purchased a brandy new 75th anniversary BHP from CDNN.

The trigger was breaking consistantly at 11 lbs, as measured with a Lyman digital trigger pull scale. The take up was a somewhat gritty feeling, due to the mag safety. None the less, the trigger did break crisply.

So I pulled the mag. safety, with high hopes for a significant imporvement to the trigger pull.

The process was easy and the pins came out with out too much effort. I also pulled the grip panels and mag release, so I could observe the mechanism clearly.

When it was all back together, however, the improvement was pretty minimal.

The length of the take up did not change at all, however, it is now totally clean with no scrape. But the trigger is still breaking at 11 lbs..... with a few iterations breaking 4 oz. lighter.

The break is crisp and clean as b4.

Looks like the next stip will bet to swap out the hammer spring with a 26 lb. spring Wolf. I'm also going to order a spare spring for the sear lever and then nip a few coils off of it, as the lever requires a ridiculous amount of force to pivot. I'll see how all that works and consider relieving some tension off of the sear spring if it's still to heavy. I'd really like to get it down to 5 lbs if possible.

I'm really happy with the quality of the machining and finish on this pistol. It's the nicest piece I've ever owned. But it sure seams like FN ruined the trigger pull in the name of making a "safe" (idiot profe?) pistol.

Just as a side note, the stock walnut grip panels are ridiculously fat and blocky. I suspect a new set of thin grips are on the horizon for me.

The pistol is easy to take down (assuming you have the required pin punches) and the mechanism is quite clever (imo).
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Last edited by ssn vet; 01-01-2011 at 07:42 PM.
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  #85  
Old 02-08-2011, 06:33 PM
Jimmy10mm Jimmy10mm is offline
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Many thanks for this tutorial. I had some moments with the procedure but finally got everything apart and back together without messing anything up. Trigger pull is so much smoother and crisper.
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  #86  
Old 02-08-2011, 10:39 PM
danpass danpass is offline
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I tried earlier today with my new BHP. Just how much force is needed?

I tried both sides in fact and didn't see any movement.

I was a bit concerned about how much force to use on my brand new, shiny blue BHP
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  #87  
Old 02-08-2011, 11:08 PM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
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Quote:
how much force is needed
I'd say you want to definately go from right to left....

Keeping everything solidly supported is also important.

I don't have a bench block yet, so I used an old hard wood cutting board with a hole in it fo the pin.

I also put tape over to protect the slide.

I popped it hard twice with a nylon punch, and though it put a dimple in the face of the punch, it apparently broke it lose, such that light taps with a brass punch were all that was required to finish the job.
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  #88  
Old 02-09-2011, 12:21 AM
danpass danpass is offline
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well ........ let me put it this way:

do I pound the nub or the flat?

(you say one way, the op says the other)


I believe I have the very same gun you have; 75th with fat grips (from CDNNNNNNN) so I wonder that I'll likely have the same result in the end lol
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  #89  
Old 04-20-2011, 01:43 PM
dogday dogday is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssn vet View Post
I just recently purchased a brandy new 75th anniversary BHP from CDNN.

The trigger was breaking consistantly at 11 lbs, as measured with a Lyman digital trigger pull scale. The take up was a somewhat gritty feeling, due to the mag safety. None the less, the trigger did break crisply.

So I pulled the mag. safety, with high hopes for a significant imporvement to the trigger pull.

The process was easy and the pins came out with out too much effort. I also pulled the grip panels and mag release, so I could observe the mechanism clearly.

When it was all back together, however, the improvement was pretty minimal.

The length of the take up did not change at all, however, it is now totally clean with no scrape. But the trigger is still breaking at 11 lbs..... with a few iterations breaking 4 oz. lighter.

The break is crisp and clean as b4.

Looks like the next stip will bet to swap out the hammer spring with a 26 lb. spring Wolf. I'm also going to order a spare spring for the sear lever and then nip a few coils off of it, as the lever requires a ridiculous amount of force to pivot. I'll see how all that works and consider relieving some tension off of the sear spring if it's still to heavy. I'd really like to get it down to 5 lbs if possible.

I'm really happy with the quality of the machining and finish on this pistol. It's the nicest piece I've ever owned. But it sure seams like FN ruined the trigger pull in the name of making a "safe" (idiot profe?) pistol.

Just as a side note, the stock walnut grip panels are ridiculously fat and blocky. I suspect a new set of thin grips are on the horizon for me.

The pistol is easy to take down (assuming you have the required pin punches) and the mechanism is quite clever (imo).
So whats the point of removing the Mag safety if it doesn't change any thing.
I have a new MKlll and would like to have a 5# trigger also. I guess not having a mag safety doesn't help with that.
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  #90  
Old 05-16-2011, 01:42 PM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
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Quote:
So whats the point of removing the Mag safety if it doesn't change any thing.
Removing the mag. safety "did" do something. It totally elliminated the gritty, creepy take up.

It did not, however, reduce the pull weight.

You have to alter the springs for that.
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  #91  
Old 05-16-2011, 05:41 PM
corvettezo6 corvettezo6 is offline
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ssn vet, I am interested in getting the same gun as you mentioned. I looked on CDNN site and saw it for 789.99 which is a good price. But I am trying to find out aproximatly what the total cost is with taxes, fees and shipping to determine if it is a truly good buy. If it is possible can you tell me the full cost. I have a local dealer that will sell it to me for 850 plus sales tax. Just trying to compare.
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  #92  
Old 05-19-2011, 12:42 PM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
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I believe you will find the CDNN price includes delivery. And if they do not have a brick and mortor presence in you state they shouldn't be tacking on sales tax.

I pay $10 for FFL transferes from my local retired machinist friend, so the price to me was the advertised price plus $10.

I picked up the fixed sight 75th anniversary model for $750 from them (if I recall correctly.... which is iffy). And the fact that I bought it in the 76th year of production doesn't bother me a bit.
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  #93  
Old 05-27-2011, 09:40 PM
HRT HRT is offline
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Well I did two smiffing things on my new BHP today....Mag disconnect removal and bobbed the hammer at the second serration. This was a case where a Dremel actually has a place within arms reach of a fire arm. As to the efficacy of the two mods...Mag disconnect changed trigger pull significantly smoother and lighter. The bobbing of the hammer while it did not completely eliminate contact with the web of my right hand it reduced it to a tolerable level. Now I need to find the danged bottle of cold blue.....
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Last edited by HRT; 06-01-2011 at 10:49 PM.
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  #94  
Old 06-26-2011, 04:19 AM
mikezing mikezing is offline
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Ive read up on how to do this and am pretty sure I wont have any issues thanks to all the info in this thread.
Only have a few questions...Im getting punches, so I can do this properly and not hurt the pins or blueing. I have a t-series hi power and it appears that the pin in the trigger is concaved and the pin that holds the trigger assembly is convex(shown in 1st post pics).
Im planning on getting the set of mayhew roll pin punches and starrett pin punches (1/16,3/32,5/32,1/8) all in steel. Ive heard that for punches in sizes under 1/8" you should get steel instead of brass, because they break quickly and dont offer any more protection from marring the blueing on the pins.
Are these the right punches for the job (ie will fit and not mar the finish on the pins)?
Also, does putting electrical tape on the pins prevent marring on the pins or just on the frame?

Last edited by mikezing; 06-26-2011 at 04:24 AM.
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  #95  
Old 07-05-2011, 02:17 AM
Nomadz Nomadz is offline
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I use steel. The tape works for me. It helps stabilise the punch. Your guns finish is expensive to repair, tape is cheap. Like I said I have done many BHP's this way. It is not however the only way.
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  #96  
Old 08-22-2011, 10:12 PM
Sade Sade is offline
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I safely removed mag retention stop out of my Browning and now trigger works like a charm.

However.

I don't remember in which obscure place I read that cutting off a couple of coils of the mag retention spring and re-installing the system on your trigger gives you the best out of two worlds: mags would drop free since now the spring doesn't have enough force to keep them in place, and mag safety disconnect will keep working around.

Any thoughts?
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  #97  
Old 08-23-2011, 06:44 PM
Sade Sade is offline
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PD: Either that, or polishing the retentos surface with some sandpaper very carefully so mags fall freely but safety keeps working?
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  #98  
Old 09-07-2011, 12:02 AM
mark2734 mark2734 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sade View Post
I safely removed mag retention stop out of my Browning and now trigger works like a charm.

However.

I don't remember in which obscure place I read that cutting off a couple of coils of the mag retention spring and re-installing the system on your trigger gives you the best out of two worlds: mags would drop free since now the spring doesn't have enough force to keep them in place, and mag safety disconnect will keep working around.

Any thoughts?
Believe it or not I was researching the same thing. Cutting coils and polishing the face of the mag safety. I shoot IDPA and need to have all the gun's safeties intact to stay within the rules.
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  #99  
Old 11-03-2011, 10:36 AM
wc145 wc145 is offline
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Wow. Thanks for this sticky. I just the other day picked up a barely used Charles Daly HP for my 12 y/o to start IDPA with. Decent gun but the trigger was horrid, the weight was okay and the let off was crisp but getting there was gritty and noisy. I followed the pics and directions and had the mag safety out and the gun back together in 10 minutes or so and the difference is incredible. The take up is now smooth with almost no resistance and the let off is clean and crisp. Thanks again!!!
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  #100  
Old 11-19-2011, 01:53 PM
sat sat is offline
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Worked out great on my new FN. Trigger pin just came right out. Didnt even need to strike it. Just pushed on the punch and slipped right out. After mod, my trigger pull is approx 6.5lds using my RCB trigger device. I would like to drop it down another pound. By going with a lighter hammer spring, would this give me what i am looking for in a combat HP?
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Last edited by sat; 11-19-2011 at 02:33 PM.
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