New thumb safety install. Does my lower lugs need more trimming now? - 1911Forum
1911Forum
Advertise Here
Forum   Reviews   Rules   Legal   Site Supporters & Donations   Advertise


Go Back   1911Forum > >

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-15-2017, 11:13 AM
Thisisyourcaptin Thisisyourcaptin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 102
New thumb safety install. Does my lower lugs need more trimming now?

I've been building the 1911 with a Wilson safety. Works fin. Hate the feel and look though. I bought a Harrison Custom thumb safety. Fit is tight in the frame and grip safety. That's ok. But when it comes to the slide it acts as though the slide does not move fare enough forward. I did cut the lower lugs on the Barstow barrel for the Wilson. Is it common to have to cut the lugs more when changing the thumb safety?

I don't mind doin it. Just can undo it once done is all.

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/extr...e-thumb-safety



Nate
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-15-2017, 11:18 AM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wabash IN
Age: 39
Posts: 1,416
Hello,

The two do not relate to each other.

Josh
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-15-2017, 11:22 AM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wabash IN
Age: 39
Posts: 1,416
Are you, by chance, talking about the slide stop, not the thumb safety?

Regards,

Josh
Reply With Quote
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-2017, 12:40 PM
SFSMedic SFSMedic is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: I.E., CA
Posts: 515
Thumb safeties need fitting. Just like most things in this platform. They are rarely drop in and good to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Brett Cifaldi
Apprentice Gunsmith
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-15-2017, 12:48 PM
ThatFishGuy ThatFishGuy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 224
The inner lobe is probably getting hung up on the frame cut out. You need to fit the lug for both the frame clearance and the hammer/sear engagement.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-15-2017, 12:54 PM
gunnut606 gunnut606 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: ks
Posts: 1,486
Does the TS go all the way up without the slide in place ?

.
__________________
Group size is nothing if you did not hit what you aim at.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-15-2017, 02:21 PM
Thisisyourcaptin Thisisyourcaptin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnut606 View Post
Does the TS go all the way up without the slide in place ?

.

That's the thing. It goes all the way into the frame. I fitted it already for the seat. That worked out fine. The slide goes all the way home and into battery. But the safety can not go up into safe in less the slide goes 1/16 inch or so farther forward. Works perfect with the Wilson. Ut with this one the leading edge of the safety that ingages the slide and plunged seems a bit longer than the Wilson.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-15-2017, 03:23 PM
SFSMedic SFSMedic is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: I.E., CA
Posts: 515
New thumb safety install. Does my lower lugs need more trimming now?

1/16" forward or so depresses the disco changing the sear, disco and thumb safety relation. It needs fitting.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Brett Cifaldi
Apprentice Gunsmith
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-15-2017, 03:46 PM
RickB's Avatar
RickB RickB is online now
1911 Aficionado
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Not Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 19,730
I have seen older barrel fitting instructions that say you should cut the lower lugs until the thumb safety fully engages in the slide.
I would not use safety fit to judge or determine barrel fit!
If the gun is reliable and accurate, adjust the safety as necessary.
__________________
If you're not shooting you should be moving. If you're not moving you should be reloading. If you're not shooting, moving, or reloading, you should be taping or picking brass. - Z.C.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-15-2017, 03:46 PM
subscriber subscriber is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: California
Posts: 3,411
If the Wilson safety works with the Barsto barrel, then the Harrison safety could be trimmed where it enters the slide notch.

If the fitted barrel has the link over center by 0.05" when the slide is all the way forward, meaning the link leans slightly forward, then cutting more on the barrel's lower lugs may not be indicated.

On the other hand, you said you cut the barrel lugs to fit the Wilson safety. Just allowing the safety to enter the slide notch is not the primary driver for fitting the barrel's lower lugs. That is also the case with matching the rear of the slide and frame. Barrel fitting is a little more involved than that.

Among other aspects, the barrel's lower lugs must not be cut back until they are thinner than 0.1". If you barrel's lugs are much thicker than this, that would suggest you can or even should cut the barrel so that it rests further forward on the slide stop pin.

How are you cutting the barrel's lower lugs?
__________________
You can't reason people out of a position they didn't reason their way into...
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-15-2017, 04:00 PM
Thisisyourcaptin Thisisyourcaptin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by subscriber View Post

How are you cutting the barrel's lower lugs?


Using the brownells jig. I did the barrel about a year ago. Guess I need to go back and read through the instructions on it. I may have over looked something.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-15-2017, 04:01 PM
Thisisyourcaptin Thisisyourcaptin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by SFSMedic View Post
1/16" forward or so depresses the disco changing the sear, disco and thumb safety relation. It needs fitting.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's my worry as well.

I'm not worried about the slide and frame fit at the rear of the frame. This can be adjusted.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-16-2017, 08:13 AM
gunnut606 gunnut606 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: ks
Posts: 1,486
I think this is what you have at the moment, the front of the Harrison TS has a little too much meat where the dimple is, so right now if the slide is flush with the frame, then you can trim a little from the face of the TS, and if the slide is back behind the frame then trim a little from the barrel feet (but do not go too far, the link should be just a few degrees pass the 90* when the barrel is horizontal) and you can also remove a little meat at the front of the cut out in the slide too, or a combination of all of them.

.
__________________
Group size is nothing if you did not hit what you aim at.

Last edited by gunnut606; 02-16-2017 at 08:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-16-2017, 08:17 AM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wabash IN
Age: 39
Posts: 1,416
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickB View Post
I have seen older barrel fitting instructions that say you should cut the lower lugs until the thumb safety fully engages in the slide.
I would not use safety fit to judge or determine barrel fit!
If the gun is reliable and accurate, adjust the safety as necessary.
That's a new one on me. Kinda seems like it'd be going the long way around the barn to the outhouse.

Josh
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-16-2017, 03:16 PM
subscriber subscriber is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: California
Posts: 3,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua M. Smith View Post
That's a new one on me. Kinda seems like it'd be going the long way around the barn to the outhouse.
What would you recommend, Josh?
__________________
You can't reason people out of a position they didn't reason their way into...
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 02-16-2017, 03:46 PM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wabash IN
Age: 39
Posts: 1,416
Quote:
Originally Posted by subscriber View Post
What would you recommend, Josh?
I mean, I've never heard of what this book says, ie, fitting the barrel to make the safety fit.

Fit the barrel, fit the fire control components, fit the safety.

I was agreeing with Rick B.

Regards,

Josh
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-16-2017, 04:31 PM
subscriber subscriber is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: California
Posts: 3,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua M. Smith View Post
I was agreeing with Rick B.
Roger that.
__________________
You can't reason people out of a position they didn't reason their way into...
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-16-2017, 04:52 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271
If we are talking about Harrisons thumb safety I had to fit the lug on the safety for frame clearance as well as the thumb pad-it was a couple thousand too long. It is a great part though.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:17 AM
Thisisyourcaptin Thisisyourcaptin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 102
I found the cause of the prob. Started mesureing the Wilson and Harrison. The Harrison is bigger. Not much but bigger. The barrel link was just barely at 90 degrees straight up. So I did fit the lower lugs a wee bit more. Just bearly .001 and it fits fine now. Link is now right at 90

I had already fit the safety pad.

Question.

I'm using a Wilson bulet proof plunger tube, spring, and plungers. They really grind. The action of the safety with out them there is smooth as glass. But when I use the plunger is gritty. All parts are stainless. When I use a carbon plunger it's smooth. But I'd like to keep stainless. For cosmetics. Any ideas to smooth this out? Did it also with the Wilson.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:49 AM
Hopknockious Hopknockious is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua M. Smith View Post
Hello,

The two do not relate to each other.

Josh
You read my mind. I'm just reading this thread to see how this ends
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:53 AM
Hopknockious Hopknockious is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisisyourcaptin View Post
I found the cause of the prob. Started mesureing the Wilson and Harrison. The Harrison is bigger. Not much but bigger. The barrel link was just barely at 90 degrees straight up. So I did fit the lower lugs a wee bit more. Just bearly .001 and it fits fine now. Link is now right at 90

I had already fit the safety pad.

Question.

I'm using a Wilson bulet proof plunger tube, spring, and plungers. They really grind. The action of the safety with out them there is smooth as glass. But when I use the plunger is gritty. All parts are stainless. When I use a carbon plunger it's smooth. But I'd like to keep stainless. For cosmetics. Any ideas to smooth this out? Did it also with the Wilson.
Do you mean they have metal to metal grinding? Can you just lap them (inside the tube) and use a polisher on the plungers? You will not see them much, so the finish need not match.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:25 AM
gunnut606 gunnut606 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: ks
Posts: 1,486
Find out what causes it to be gritty, the spring or the plungers by switching them around. If it's the plunger then most of the time it will be at the tip, and if it is then chuck it in a drill and polish it out.
.
__________________
Group size is nothing if you did not hit what you aim at.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 AM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County, CA
Posts: 12,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisisyourcaptin View Post
I found the cause of the prob. Started mesureing the Wilson and Harrison. The Harrison is bigger. Not much but bigger. The barrel link was just barely at 90 degrees straight up. So I did fit the lower lugs a wee bit more. Just bearly .001 and it fits fine now. Link is now right at 90
The in battery barrel position should hold the link past the 90 position, approximately .050" past. It is in this way that in live fire, the slide can pull the barrel back .100" before the link begins to draws the barrel down.



LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...


Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:58 AM
Hopknockious Hopknockious is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by log man View Post
The in battery barrel position should hold the link past the 90 position, approximately .050" past. It is in this way that in live fire, the slide can pull the barrel back .100" before the link begins to draws the barrel down.



LOG
Does that effect dwell time also? It also appears the barrel will be pushed against the slide for longer as well?
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 02-17-2017, 11:14 AM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County, CA
Posts: 12,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopknockious View Post
Does that effect dwell time also? It also appears the barrel will be pushed against the slide for longer as well?
In a fitted barrel the link should not lift the barrel against the slide, the barrel should be sitting on the slide stop pin and lower lug.

In a drop in fit where the barrel does ride the link, the barrel is the highest in the slide as the link passes the 90 point. This is why you can push the chamber end down a little when in battery as the link is now past the 90 point.

This is also why the link slide stop pin hole is specified as at least .0045" larger than the pin, to allow it to swing in an arc, .050" before TDC and then .050" after, and then is tight and pulls the barrel down.

When the slide stop pin is through the link and you hold it back, barrel in hand, the link should be just snug to the bottom of the pin.

LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...



Last edited by log man; 02-17-2017 at 11:17 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:35 PM.


NOTICE TO USERS OF THIS SITE: By continuing to use this site, you certify that you have read and agree to abide by the Legal Terms of Use. All information, data, text or other materials ("Content") posted to this site by any users are the sole responsibility of those users. 1911Forum does not guarantee the accuracy, integrity, or quality of such Content.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2015 1911Forum.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved