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  #1  
Old 02-02-2019, 04:09 PM
ColonelCornhole ColonelCornhole is offline
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Colt 1903 firing pin sticking

I'm having the exact same problem as described in this post from 2015 by a member who is no longer active here. https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=496036

My 32acp Colt 1903 firing pin will stick hard in the extended position when dry fired (such as is common after the magazine is emptied, since the slide doesnt lock back). This causes the next round not to chamber since the pin is protruding far enough to cover the magazine. I tried to clean out the channel and check for burs. I also went ahead and replaced the firing pin with a new one from Jack First. No luck.
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:03 PM
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Kudos for using the search function

I know nothing about the 1903 firing pin, but am a logical fellow:

If the firing pin binds; its OD interferes with the channel ID; or there is misalignment.

It is also possible that the FP is free, but that the spring coils or coil termination is "too fat" to fit between the slide channel ID and the FP OD. Does binding occur if you assemble and dry fire without the spring? Does the FP jam, even if you push the FP forward, rather than dry fire?

If the ends of the spring have metal that constrict either the spring ID, or widens the OD, the problem may be as simple as cleaning up that area of the spring. Measure the spring OD and ID all the way around both ends.

Does the spring have a "front" and a "rear" coil? One tight coil may act to retain the spring to the firing pin. If this coil is facing forwards, it may "catch" the FP on firing.

The fact that the "catch" happens on dry firing, rather than firing is significant. It suggests meeting a taper between parts; or a bent FP... It is unlikely that the new FP is also deformed. That leaves us with the slide channel and the spring.

If the rear of the channel in the slide is what stops the firing pin when dry fired, that may have peened down until too close to the diameter of the front "stem" of the FP. If so opening it up from the rear wit a tapering reamer may be indicated.

Now, it appears that because of the shrouded hammer, there may not be axial access to the rear of the FP channel? That the channel was drilled and reamed from the front in manufacturing. Bit how was the rear larger ID section machined?

I would ream this hole using a reamer at the FP hole spec. Not having that spec, I would use gauge pins (or undamaged drill bit shanks) to determine the FP hole diameter in the breechface and perhaps 0.1" in. Obtain a reamer at that diameter and ream the hole to that size all the way to the rear.

If you have access to the rear of the FP channel, ream that to spec also. Looking at the images in the link provided, the rear FP hole may get peened over by the hammer. Simply filing away any burrs here may fix the problem.

First, does the FP have any taper on either the protruding portion, or further back? Shallow tapers get things jammed. Consider making shallow tapering sections parallel, unless the taper is crucial for operation.

Posting images of your firing pin and slide channel etc would help. Else, I hope you happen to catch the attention of 1903 owners that have dealt with this problem.

If you can't ream the slide channel or reach a peened area; you may be able to resolve the problem by relieving the FP (even though that is to spec). Clean and dry the FP and channel. Paint the FP with permanent marker. Push the FP forward into the channel until it bind and back, a few times. Remove the FP and check to see where the ink has been rubbed off. Consider relieving the FP a few thousands of an inch in that area; if the root cause inside the FP channel can't be reached.

The problem will probably come back, unless your fix removes a lot of material from the right places. Perhaps this pistol should be treated as a functional collector's item, rather than your primary home defense weapon...
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Old 02-02-2019, 08:05 PM
ColonelCornhole ColonelCornhole is offline
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Thanks for such a detailed reply. As it turns out, you were on the right track for sure. I just finished repairing it and came back to update this thread. The issue is that the aftermarket (Jack First Parts) firing pin has a slight taper from the tip (.08") toward the head (.092+) which my factory firing pin didn't have. I don't know if the pin they manufactured was for a later iteration of the Colt pocket or what, but it was no bueno in my pistol. I ended up using a very cutting-edge and high tech lathe setup consisting of varying grades of sand paper and a handheld pwoer drill to turn down the pin to be a consistent .080" from tip to head. I finished with 1000 grit to get a fairly smooth finish. This seems to have completely cured my issue and the gun is functioning just fine. Go figure.
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2019, 12:56 AM
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So, asking the question helped focus your mind. Good
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:19 AM
walter o walter o is offline
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Just asking ,why was the original F.P, sticking if it was not tapered like the replacement ?
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter o View Post
Just asking ,why was the original F.P, sticking if it was not tapered like the replacement ?
Anybody's guess: Maybe the rear of the FP channel was peened such that the ID closed in on the FP "tail". Maybe the FP tail was "riveted", leading to a similar type jam.

Not the OP's image, but one he referenced:




Unsubbing from this thread now...
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Old 02-12-2020, 10:04 AM
CBX CBX is offline
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Sorry to hack into this thread... Can anyone tell me the punch size to remove the firing pin lock pin? Thanks, Mark
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2020, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBX View Post
Sorry to hack into this thread... Can anyone tell me the punch size to remove the firing pin lock pin? Thanks, Mark
A little smaller than the pin

No idea. Not sure many people are going to notice your question buried in this thread.

You could try to PM the original poster and ask him: https://forums.1911forum.com/member.php?u=289438
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