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FRUSTRATED!!! HOST plate won’t stay put!

2K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  DRM813 
#1 ·
I’ve had my HOST Tactical .45 for over a year now and love it...but... I can’t seem to get the HOST plate to remain secured.

-I used blue Locktite torqued down to the factory recommended 18 in/lbs but after 2 range sessions, it came loose.

-I then tried blue and 20 in/lbs, but still came loose.

-I then tried blue and 25 in/lbs but stripped the head of the Allen screw. The Allen head was replaced with a Torx head and tightened to 25.

Today, After about 5 range sessions (about 1000 rounds) the plate came loose again!

The SRO has held tight to the HOST plate through all this, but I’ve had to remove it to secure the plate.

Does anyone have any suggestions or solutions?
 
#3 ·
My gun was sent back to them a few months ago for minor repairs. I’d hate to be without my gun again for several weeks if there is something I could do myself.

It SHOULD be a as simple as turning a screwdriver... but maybe I’m doing it wrong!?!? Each time I re-secured the 2 mounting screws, I even went as far as cleaning off the threads with acetone and a wire brush.
 
#4 ·
pnut:
I truly feel your frustration and understand your reluctance to send it back in for warranty. I would be taking the same approach.

During my recent visit to STI, I met Shawn Armstrong who, IIRC, is a top level manager of gun assembly and testing.

Also met David Cupp, who is Chief Gunsmith of warranty returns/repairs. I spent a lot of time with Dave, and he is the real deal in Customer Service. A 30+ year veteran gunsmith! IMO, he knows the STI lineup inside and out!

I feel confident a phone conversation with Mr. Cupp would be very beneficial to your sight plate issues.

HTHs!
 
#7 ·
I've never had a plate come loose on any of my 5 or so HOSTs, I torque them to 22lbs with blue Locktite also. The only problem I have on the HOST plate was one where the screws were to long and would tighten down on the extractor, or I should say wouldn't tighten down on the plate. But this reared it's head really fast as an extraction problem.
On the optic I had one that the screw were to short and stripped out but was able to find longer screws, cut them to the right length and save the plate.
 
#9 ·
After some discussion on a gunsmithing forum, I decided to go RED for the plate and stay a BLUE for the optic. I figured that I’d never run this gun without an optic so what the hell. Others also recommended bedding the plate to the slide with BLUE, so I gave that a shot too.

BTW, after each of my re-tightening experiences, I did clean the threads and bolts with a bronze brush and acetone. I did this time as well.

I’m keeping my fingers crossed and hitting the range next week. I’ll keep everyone updated.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Mounting plates and screws stripping out....

I had this issue when mounting a Vortex Venom red-dot..... I eventually ordered longer screws designed for mounting rifle scopes.....which are designed to hold up against the recoil of large rifle calibers with heavy recoil.

I used a slightly larger diameter screw, then drilled and tapped the mounting plate and the slide below the plate. The rear half of the slide was cut flat to make a good mounting surface....if my memory is correct, I used 8-40 thread screws...… I then used red Loctite to secure the mounting plate on the slide. By drilling and tapping the slide and using stronger screws, I have never had an issue..... There is a great deal of stress on the mounting plate and screws when a slide is constantly cycling with the added weight of a red dot reflex sight...….:)
 
#11 ·
Well, let me add to this story: just took my new Omni 45 (bought it new old stock) to the range yesterday. Was not running an optic yet, wanted to get a feel for the gun first. Had the cover plate torqued down but no loctite. Finished my shooting and came home. Then, I noticed the plate was gone. Just never paid attention putting it away in the range bag.

Went back to the range and found the plate but no screws. No biggie STI provided extras. So I go to put them in and they won’t go in all the way. WTH? Well, not only did the plate come OFF during shooting, apparently the screws BROKE OFF and now I have broken screws deep in the holes. It has to be only the last few mm of them but it is going to be a BITCH to get those out.
 
#12 ·
I put about 200 rounds through the gun this week and so far, so good. I wont full trust it till I have about 1000 rounds though.

YTOWN1911, I had a similar experience as you, except it was the rear sight that broke off. The original HOST system on my gun had the rear iron screwed to the slide and sandwiched under the plate. The two screws holding the plate kept coming loose, causing the sight to rattle. I shot it like that anyhow, figuring I wasn’t using the irons. After a range session, I noticed the rear iron missing! I took the plate off and saw the iron had sheared off. It broke at The retaining lip that the screws went through, and one of the screw heads were gone.

I sent the gun back to STI and they replaced the HOST plate with a whole new system. The new plate is steel as opposed to aluminum, and it has the rear iron dovetailed into it. I’m not sure, but it’s not quite the DUO system because the plate doesn’t have the 2 foreword facing tabs that mate with cuts in the slide. But my slide didn’t have the slide cuts to begin with.
 
#14 ·
I didn’t even realize it was aluminum. Makes a ton of sense now.

STI was going to get a call this afternoon anyhow about this so I will keep the Forum updated.

Frustrating.
 
#15 ·
Yes, the original HOST plate was aluminum. I stripped the threads on my first one, which was replaced by STI for another aluminum one, then eventually the steel one I have now.

I could see a problem the aluminum, especially if you use an RDS with a bottom loading battery like the RMR.
 
#16 ·
.....and she’s going back to STI sometime next week. As usual, Paul was right on it and was honest that they don’t have much staff there right now so it would be Monday-Tuesday for a label. I get it - hell I am off until Tuesday myself. But I know it will be taken care of.

Been wanting to take a few others to the range to show them some love anyway...

Pnut - what exact ones did you order? Would like to know if you can provide a link or product #. Thanks
 
#17 ·
The base plate and RDS screws are both actually TORX PLUS screws.

The McMaster base plate screws part number is 92703A301.

The SRO/RMR screw number is 94414A148. This screw is a hair too long, but I modified them by cinching down 3 nuts and grinding down to the nuts.

McMaster Only sold them in 50 count boxes so I have plenty. PM me if you want some, including the modded RDS screws!
 
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