Ruger SR1911 Review: Part II, the modifications...PICS! - Page 2 - 1911Forum
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  #26  
Old 07-11-2012, 07:18 PM
markis markis is offline
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what was the point of crwoning your barrel? was it shooting poorly or did oyu feel burs?

I have NOT crowned mine but can shoot one holers at 25 yards easily and wonder i i should crown mine now?
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  #27  
Old 07-11-2012, 08:19 PM
Texagun Texagun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markis View Post
I have NOT crowned mine but can shoot one holers at 25 yards easily and wonder i i should crown mine now?
WHY would you want to crown the barrel if it is shooting into one hole at 25 yards?
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2012, 06:45 PM
markis markis is offline
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That is my qestion is why this guy had to crown his with the same barrel i have in my gun??
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  #29  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:26 PM
thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markis View Post
That is my qestion is why this guy had to crown his with the same barrel i have in my gun??
The OP is a custom gunsmith. One of the many things they do is crown the barrel with a recessed crown/not stock angle. Usually after flush cutting the barrel. Part is aesthetics, part is for function. If yours isn't broken, don't "fix" it until it is. He's a pro after all.

Robert
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  #30  
Old 07-12-2012, 10:33 PM
crashoverrideplik crashoverrideplik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markis View Post
That is my qestion is why this guy had to crown his with the same barrel i have in my gun??
You must not know who Joe Chambers is? He builds some spectacular guns. Most recently he build a right and left handed matching set of guns that were in quite a few magazines. His attention to detail and work have earned him a reputation for making "obsessibly accurate, reliable and beautiful guns". His guns go to Camp Perry.. and win. His pistols shoot 10 shot groups at 50 yards between 1.100” and 1.500”,with the average of 1.350” in .45 ACP. The guns built in 9mm and .38 Super average just under 1.00” for 10 shots at 50 yards.

Last edited by crashoverrideplik; 07-12-2012 at 10:36 PM.
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  #31  
Old 07-13-2012, 12:51 PM
gkos59 gkos59 is offline
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Originally Posted by crashoverrideplik View Post
You must not know who Joe Chambers is? He builds some spectacular guns. Most recently he build a right and left handed matching set of guns that were in quite a few magazines. His attention to detail and work have earned him a reputation for making "obsessibly accurate, reliable and beautiful guns". His guns go to Camp Perry.. and win. His pistols shoot 10 shot groups at 50 yards between 1.100” and 1.500”,with the average of 1.350” in .45 ACP. The guns built in 9mm and .38 Super average just under 1.00” for 10 shots at 50 yards.
When I was young I used to dream of owning a Wilson. I got one but now that I am older I dream of owning a Joe Chambers pistol.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2012, 11:44 AM
crashoverrideplik crashoverrideplik is offline
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Originally Posted by gkos59 View Post
When I was young I used to dream of owning a Wilson. I got one but now that I am older I dream of owning a Joe Chambers pistol.
You and me both
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  #33  
Old 07-17-2012, 02:39 AM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Sorry for my delay in responding guys. Just got back from the Nationals at Camp Perry.

To remove the Ruger marks I first sanded the sides of the slide with 220-600 paper and then sand blasted the entire gun.

As for crowning, I "finish crown" every barrel so that the lands and groves are broken evenly all the way around so that the bullet leaves the barrel flying as concentrically as possible to help improve accuracy. That being said, if your gun is shooting one hole at 25 yards, I would agree with Robert above me and leave it alone. ;-)

Respectfully,
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2013, 02:23 PM
Snakeshooter17 Snakeshooter17 is offline
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Excellent work done on this handgun. How many man hours did it take to bring this pistol to your specs? Only curious, I'm pursuing custom gunsmithing myself...
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  #35  
Old 01-05-2013, 02:27 PM
Snakeshooter17 Snakeshooter17 is offline
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The front strap treatment and slide top treatment is very cool. How do you accomplish that work into the steel?
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  #36  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:02 PM
7-19-11 7-19-11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
From what I can tell, they are all made of carbon. I thought at first that the GS and MSH were SS but after checking them with a different type of cold blue I found that they appear to be carbon.

I used sand blasting to do this one as I prefer the darker look but I think that glass beads would match the finish very well. YMMV.

And you're welcome.

Respectfully,
Just reviving and old thread...

I prefer to keep my SR1911 all stock instead of spending more $$ by replacing parts so I decided to polish the black parts . I really like the way they turn out but now that the black is gone I will grit blast them using glass beads to see if I can get them to match the finish of the frame.

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  #37  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:52 PM
Guitar Pete Guitar Pete is offline
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Useful thread, so bumping it since it helped me on what to look for - just got my new SR1911 and while checking it out I found the 8rd. magazine didn't drop all the way out. So using this thread, I looked and found the right upper grip screw bushing protruded a bit and there was a light contact indication on the magazine. Removed the grip and bushing after heating the bushing with my soldering iron and filed it down to be flush in the frame and now the magazine drops freely. Waiting for a bit warmer weather in Minn to take it out and see how it shoots. Thanks Joe for providing this write-up.
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  #38  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:43 AM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitar Pete View Post
Useful thread, so bumping it since it helped me on what to look for - just got my new SR1911 and while checking it out I found the 8rd. magazine didn't drop all the way out. So using this thread, I looked and found the right upper grip screw bushing protruded a bit and there was a light contact indication on the magazine. Removed the grip and bushing after heating the bushing with my soldering iron and filed it down to be flush in the frame and now the magazine drops freely. Waiting for a bit warmer weather in Minn to take it out and see how it shoots. Thanks Joe for providing this write-up.
You are very welcome sir. I'm glad it helped you out!
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2014, 11:32 AM
dakota1911 dakota1911 is online now
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Looks like a nice little project. As I mentioned before, I think the Ruger 1911 is going to be one of the more modified 1911 variants out there, esp. since I see more of them around at about $625 these days.

I have a couple SR1911s and a SR1911CMD. Lovely pistols. I am thinking about a Roland 460 build on the second SR1911. On it goes. Just do not keep track of how much of your time it takes to do something like this or you may feel bad.
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  #40  
Old 01-21-2014, 10:22 AM
modrifle3 modrifle3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
First of all, thank you all for looking at my original thread on this pistol. It has been very enjoyable to review it and hear your feedback. I hope it has helped you in some way and I look forward to doing other reviews in the future.

The modifications:

Mechanical:

- Corrected the guide rod to prevent it from hitting the barrel legs
- Corrected the mag catch to prevent it from hitting the mag follower
- Corrected the slide stop to prevent it from hitting rounds during feeding
- Corrected the frame feed ramp by widening, deepening and polishing
- Corrected the ejection port by lowering it to approx .410” from the bottom of the slide
- Corrected the ejector nose angle for consistent ejection
- Corrected the extractor for both tension and nose position
- Corrected the link slot in the frame for proper clearance
- Corrected the grip screw bushing that were protruding into the frame
- Corrected the breech face for smoother feeding
- Corrected the barrel throat and polished it
- Crowned the barrel
- Welded and re-cut the barrel hood for a tolerance of less than .001” to the breech face
- Cut the chamber to a depth of .905” for best accuracy and reliability
- Replaced the bushing with a match fit MGW stainless bushing (you need a wrench to remove it)
- I.D. of bushing is .58125” O.D. of barrel is .58075” Total tolerance is .0005"
- Cut the Marvel Disconnector slot cut in the slide for smoother function
- Replaced the Ti firing pin with a steel EGW part
- Replaced the 20lb recoil spring with an 18lb Wolf
- Replaced the mainspring with a 23lb Wolf
- Replaced the link with one correctly dimensioned for the barrel legs
- Blended rear of slide, ejector, extractor to match the frame
- Complete trigger job with short roll set at 4lbs 2oz
o Sear at .765” oal
o Hammer hooks at .018”
o Disconnector at 1.3015”
o Corrected trigger bow in frame
o Tightened MSH to frame
o Corrected sear spring
o Corrected hammer strut

There are a couple of additional things I thought about doing to this pistol that in my opinion would enhance it such as welding and re-cutting the frame rails to fit the slide, fitting a new Kart barrel, replacing the slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, fitting a new SS .220" radius grip safety and fitting a new SS stippled Aztec cut MSH. However, in keeping with the idea of the project, that is to keep it affordable to the regular person, I decided to forgo those things for now. The cosmetic stuff was just stuff I wanted to do personally.

Cosmetic work:

- Stippled rear of slide, ejector and extractor
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut top of slide
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut front strap of frame
- Removed all slide logos
- Removed Ruger Warning on frame dust cover
- Boarder cut top of frame
- Hand bevel and blend all edges of slide and frame
- Reblast frame, slide, bushing, plug and trigger

Fired 100 rounds of mixed loads and bullets with zero malfunctions as a final function test. Total round count to date before and after modifications is 325 with zero malfunctions.

As a final note, I have also come to the conclusion that the MSH is mim as are the sights from what I can tell. The MSH is VERY hard and all three parts have the same casting marks on them in various places as the other mim parts but I could be incorrect. Also, after checking with a different kind of cold blue I have determined that the MSH and grip safety appear to be carbon and not stainless as previously believed. One other note is that it appears that a .220" grip safety could be fit very nicely without having to weld anything onto the tangs of the frame.









Respectfully,
You mention recutting the chamber . . . mine was so shallow that certain factory rounds hit the rifling when chanbering a round. Is this common with the Rugers and if anyone experiences this, is it unsafe to shoot? Ruger told me not to worry about it and keep shooting, but most say it is not safe.

Also, when working the cast stainless frame, was the metal fairly hard? Some have mention premature and heavy wear on the frame rails.
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  #41  
Old 01-22-2014, 02:21 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Originally Posted by modrifle3 View Post
You mention recutting the chamber . . . mine was so shallow that certain factory rounds hit the rifling when chanbering a round. Is this common with the Rugers and if anyone experiences this, is it unsafe to shoot? Ruger told me not to worry about it and keep shooting, but most say it is not safe.

Also, when working the cast stainless frame, was the metal fairly hard? Some have mention premature and heavy wear on the frame rails.
Yes, it is common for them to be on the short end of SAAMI. Is this dangerous? Depends on how short it is and how it correlates to the hood to breech face gap with in total makes up the head space. But it sure won't help with reliability and feeding any!

Yes, the frames are hard, or at least as hard as the Caspian frames we use here at CCP. For some reason people think that cast frames are soft, but the truth is, with a properly built frame they are just fine.
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  #42  
Old 01-25-2014, 10:30 AM
modrifle3 modrifle3 is offline
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Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
Yes, it is common for them to be on the short end of SAAMI. Is this dangerous? Depends on how short it is and how it correlates to the hood to breech face gap with in total makes up the head space. But it sure won't help with reliability and feeding any!

Yes, the frames are hard, or at least as hard as the Caspian frames we use here at CCP. For some reason people think that cast frames are soft, but the truth is, with a properly built frame they are just fine.
I am considering buying another SR at some point. Could you pm me a quote to go through it and install a Storm Lake match barrel? I will provide the barrel.
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  #43  
Old 07-31-2014, 09:46 PM
Guitar Pete Guitar Pete is offline
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Bump for a great thread - should be a sticky, suggested as much via PM to a Mod ! This and the Review thread answer lots of questions about the SR1911.

Last edited by Guitar Pete; 07-31-2014 at 10:06 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-31-2015, 10:47 AM
TheGunAndKnifeGuy TheGunAndKnifeGuy is offline
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Joe I am new to this forum as I just bought my Ruger SR1911 CMD-a yesterday. Can you make these modifications to that model (anodized aluminum frame with titanium feed ramp) and if so how much would it cost? I would love to have this gun setup to last a lifetime!
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  #45  
Old 04-13-2015, 08:38 AM
Seachaser Seachaser is offline
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Joe, great thread! As a gunsmith and shooter, what is the one mod, that you do, that contributes the most to better accuracy?
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  #46  
Old 09-28-2015, 12:57 PM
evnash evnash is offline
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nice
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  #47  
Old 11-17-2016, 06:00 PM
Doc Jim Doc Jim is offline
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Very nice, and how much would all that work cost, you left that part out. I'm sure it would be in the $1500 -$2000 range, coupled with the $600 price of the gun and you have the price of a very nice Baer, Brown or others.
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  #48  
Old 11-18-2016, 01:29 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Originally Posted by Doc Jim View Post
Very nice, and how much would all that work cost, you left that part out. I'm sure it would be in the $1500 -$2000 range, coupled with the $600 price of the gun and you have the price of a very nice Baer, Brown or others.
We all have different ideas of custom. Many people prefer to have their existing guns customized to their own desires. And I don't post prices on here as it is not allowed.
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  #49  
Old 02-19-2017, 08:17 AM
Chuckybrown Chuckybrown is offline
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Joe, thanks for this write up. I wanted a new 1911 as my "base" gun, and your write up help solidify the SR1911 as my choice.

My gun went to Teddy Jacobsen (he's worked on many of my guns and lives nearby), and it turns out he did many of the same things you did.

I feel I now have a reliable pistol that I can trust to be on my hip.

Many thanks again on the review.
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  #50  
Old 06-25-2017, 07:19 PM
1911pete 1911pete is offline
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Wish I had access to a bead blaster, would love to lose the Ruger advertising on the slide. The "read manual" warnings need to go too. Great job on moding out your Ruger.
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