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  #26  
Old 02-16-2012, 05:26 AM
TiroFijo TiroFijo is offline
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Big thanks to pistolwrench!! Great pics and explanation as usual

Should be a sticky.
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  #27  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:36 AM
bophi bophi is offline
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[QUOTE=willsguns;3698035]Wow, I am having this EXACT problem. AO frame, Colt bbl, model 70. I don't have my calipers here to measure. I was thinking that the barrel needed to be fitted, kind of like a match barrel. Haven't fired the gun yet, cycles ball fine but hollowpoints catch between the frame and barrel. My barrel doesn't seem to stick out past the frame as the OP, but it's def. not lining up properly. What does reramping involve? To go that route, would going with a ramped barrel make more sense?[/QUOTE
do you have the org, AO bbl. if so put it in and see how much if any overhang it has. the lugs could be cut different. good luck. bophi
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  #28  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:40 AM
bophi bophi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover 1 View Post
Thanks for the response.

It is an AO 45 (from the early 80's) that I am trying to fit up a Colt Series 70 barrel.

The original barrel was a casting. Never used corrosive ammo and cleaned it after each time out, but it developed a very strange, very heavy, very shiny pitting in the chamber and barrel.

With the Series 70 barrel installed, it locks up fine and feeds hardball, but I can feel the slide hesitate as it feeds a round. Did not type any hollow points in it.

If frame was over cut, it was over cut at the factory. Did some minor polishing to get the machine marks cut down.

Here are some photos.






Comments?

Thanks,

Hoover
is this your colt bbl. do you have the org. AO bbl. if so do it overhang the feed ramp. maybe AO. uses a diff. spec. for lug cuts. good luck. bophi
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  #29  
Old 05-01-2012, 07:31 PM
Hoover 1 Hoover 1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bophi View Post
is this your colt bbl. do you have the org. AO bbl. if so do it overhang the feed ramp. maybe AO. uses a diff. spec. for lug cuts. good luck. bophi
I do have the original AO barrel.

The AO barrel appears to be "standard". AO ground the lower portion of the barrel to eliminate the over hang.

Thanks,

Hoover
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  #30  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:12 PM
bophi bophi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover 1 View Post
I do have the original AO barrel.

The AO barrel appears to be "standard". AO ground the lower portion of the barrel to eliminate the over hang.

Thanks,

Hoover
thats what i thought, they need to get their stuff together, i wonder if all of their ramps are cut this way. i would if it were mine, cut the bbl. as they did or just use the org. AO bbl. unless the cost of adding a insert would not cost a lot.good luck which ever route you go. bophi
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  #31  
Old 05-02-2012, 04:55 AM
richpetrone richpetrone is offline
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Barrel overhang

I have never dealt with this situation, but am asking.....

Could a steel shim be silver soldered on the barrel where it contacts the VIS, thereby moving the barrel back the depth needed? I realize the barrel would need to have a lot of heat sinks or "heat stop" paste to keep it from overheating. When I have to work on barrels with heat, I insert a couple of gun cleaning mops soaked in water inside the barrel, and use heat sinks and paste to keep the exterior cool as well.

Would a shim create problems at link down....?
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  #32  
Old 05-02-2012, 05:50 AM
boutaswell boutaswell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolwrench View Post
This shows a new and un-fit Kart bbl fully nested in the frame. Notice the overhang.


The next two show a Kart bbl faced back and re-throated to privide the proper gap.

Pistolwrench, curiosity question. If the bottom of the (for lack of proper terminology, I will call it...)"barrels feed ramp" is ground down, is that then reground to provide a ramp surface into the chamber throat? For some reason, I was thinking the entire round case except for the "rim" had to be surrounded by metal to help prevent case rupture. As you can see, I am "gunsmith knowledge deficient" and curious. Fortunately, my SA has what looks to be the proper amount of "frame feed ramp" exposed with the barrel mounted so I have no worries there. I had just never realized that if I ordered a new barrel, I may wind up with something as in the pics and would freak out over something that may be "normal". I'm assuming that in this case, this is one of those things the manufacturer says requires "gunsmith fitting". After relooking at the pic and my question then looking at my barrel fitting, I think I answered my own question but just want to be sure. Thanks.
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  #33  
Old 05-02-2012, 05:54 AM
boutaswell boutaswell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolwrench View Post
When re-machining a feed ramp, I shoot for .252".
Which brings another question to my mind since we are on the subject....is there a gap that works better with HP or SWC ammo and ball? In other words, would a longer "ramp gap" work better with HP or SWC type ammo? Thanks
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  #34  
Old 05-02-2012, 05:59 AM
boutaswell boutaswell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBBBill View Post
It would be interesting and possibly informative to know the measurement from the slide stop pin to the VIS.
Ok, I've sat here long enough, as a terminology fng, I gotta ask the obvious....what is VIS?

Thanks,

(I hope I'm not turning into a "post whore" today. Another term I first "heard" on this forum today.)
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  #35  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:59 AM
richpetrone richpetrone is offline
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Vis

On a standard 1911 frame with the slide removed, by pointing the frame muzzle forward (as if the slide was on the frame), when looking at the frame through the tunnel behind where the guide rod rests, you will see the frame underneath the "bed or cradle' where the barrel rests at link down. The frame underneath where the barrel links down, is stopped by the VIS, called the Visible Impact Surface....some say Visual Impact Surface. Often times, this area has a "bow tie" type of mark where the barrel impacts the frame at full link down, which is normal on a properly timed barrel fit.
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  #36  
Old 05-02-2012, 07:25 AM
boutaswell boutaswell is offline
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Ok, good. I know what/where the bowtie is. Thanks
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  #37  
Old 05-02-2012, 08:18 AM
gunnut606 gunnut606 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richpetrone View Post
I have never dealt with this situation, but am asking.....

Could a steel shim be silver soldered on the barrel where it contacts the VIS, thereby moving the barrel back the depth needed?

Would a shim create problems at link down....?


That is just what I was about to say, because I have cut a ramp barrel to fit it in a non ramp frame, the back of the feet is about .030" longer and it functions just fine.
.
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Last edited by gunnut606; 05-02-2012 at 10:01 AM.
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  #38  
Old 05-02-2012, 09:01 AM
skylerbone skylerbone is offline
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I say Vertical Impact Surface.
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2012, 06:59 PM
twitchn1911 twitchn1911 is offline
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I need my barrel modified also, what tools are used to do the job correctly? What do you use to remove the metal and what to polish? I only need to get the bottom moved back very little and want to know if it would be worth doing myself. How much should it cost to have a smith do it? Thanks for any help
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  #40  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:42 AM
Shad Roe Shad Roe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylerbone View Post
I say Vertical Impact Surface.
That's what I thought it was(vertical);but,I ain't no Gunsmith.
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  #41  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:22 PM
chuckfw chuckfw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twitchn1911 View Post
I need my barrel modified also, what tools are used to do the job correctly? What do you use to remove the metal and what to polish? I only need to get the bottom moved back very little and want to know if it would be worth doing myself. How much should it cost to have a smith do it? Thanks for any help
I just had a Colt Defender barrel polished to get rid of a small overhang....cost 45.00 tax and all in Weatherford, Texas.
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  #42  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:09 AM
Jungle George Jungle George is offline
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Hoover, have you given a ramped/supported barrel a thought? That would solve your problem.

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-par...011-11298.aspx


Cheers,

George
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  #43  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:29 PM
wpage wpage is offline
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Those pics speak volumes...

You have some adjustment grinding and polishing to do.
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2013, 01:06 AM
hoplophobia hoplophobia is offline
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Do I need to alter this factory designed feed ramp and its wide mouth-barrel?

Fired couple of hundreds full metal jacket hardball and teflon coated ammo and a dozen of hollow-points without failure to feed or failure to eject.

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  #45  
Old 03-14-2013, 12:03 PM
RTK1 RTK1 is offline
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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  #46  
Old 03-14-2013, 12:15 PM
Shad Roe Shad Roe is offline
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  #47  
Old 03-14-2013, 03:59 PM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylerbone View Post
I say Vertical Impact Surface.
Yes!
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  #48  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:40 AM
Samurai 1911 Samurai 1911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoplophobia View Post
Do I need to alter this factory designed feed ramp and its wide mouth-barrel?

Fired couple of hundreds full metal jacket hardball and teflon coated ammo and a dozen of hollow-points without failure to feed or failure to eject.
If everything is running fine, leave it alone. Don't get caught up in the discussion that if someone else is having an issue, then you must be also.
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  #49  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:17 PM
Grayguns Grayguns is offline
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FWIW, our preferred method for dealing with this issue follows this logic:

Let's stipulate that the unmodified Colt barrel is dimensionally correct. That tells us in turn that the feedramp intrusion is not where it belongs. Cutting the barrel back to accommodate the too-deep feed ramp is a mistake, since it either places the transition from throat to chamber too far forward in relation to the magazine, or else results in a very steep throat angle if that point is left in place.

Better would be to scrap the frame, of course, but that's not always practical. So, we heat-sink the frame and weld up the feedramp intrusion, and recut it to correct specifications in relation to the slide stop pin bore and back wall of the barrel bed. We then refit everything around that corrected relationship to ensure reliable function.

The Auto Ordnance frames exhibit a number of other dimensional faults that make this a bit of a challenge. Nothing is quite where it should be. However, there's always something to learn and I wish the OP luck with his project.

-Bruce
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  #50  
Old 04-27-2013, 08:29 AM
acudoc1 acudoc1 is offline
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I am new to this forum and would like to introduce my self. I have recently acquired a 38 super barrel by barsto that looks...... well different. I have included pictures that will help describe this. I was told it was made for light custom loads and not safe for factory produced pressures. Has anyone seen milling like this or comment on the relative support of the cartridge file:///C:/Usefile:///C:/Users/schasens/Downloads/photo%20(2).JPGrs/schasens/Downloads/photo%20(3).JPG
file:///C:/Users/schasens/Downloads/photo.JPG
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