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  #51  
Old 10-24-2013, 12:46 AM
Snakeshooter17 Snakeshooter17 is offline
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Does anyone have these ready to ship soon?

EDIT: Never mind, Brownell's has them in stock.
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  #52  
Old 11-06-2013, 04:23 PM
hijumperrs2 hijumperrs2 is offline
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very cool.gonna have to give this one a try.i have always done the stone work in my fixed jigs, and fit with dye, and hand check while watching magnified to determine angle against hammer hooks is right.and i wondered do any of you finish the job with hand stoning the finished sear edge in a rolling motion in the direction the sear is pulled from the hammer (black arkansas stone)?its how i was taught long ago.
  #53  
Old 11-06-2013, 04:44 PM
couch couch is offline
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tuned one of my current builds with the TR jig and it couldn't have been easier.
 
  #54  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:02 PM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is offline
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I will be getting one of these -- next, or after the trigger track stone I've been lusting after.

I'm building my 1911-specific toolkit in anticipation of events two years hence, and this is how I've always preferred trigger jobs on my own pistols.

I had no idea folks got to making a jig for it -- the one I had made for myself was more fragile and complicated -- and I just really want one.

The trigger is day and night. It's not exactly crisp as in "glass rod" crisp, but rather it's more of a pop. I equate it to a balloon popping. I like it a whole lot better.

It's also easier to get a safe 3 or 3.5lb pull. You can actually get a positive sear engagement that's that light. In other words, the hammer hooks are pulling the sear back into the hammer itself.

Since I prefer my carry guns to be in the 4.5lb range, I had to bend the sear spring to put a lot of pressure on the trigger and sear to get the pull I wanted.

One day I'll figure out how low this type of sear cut can actually go.

Regards,

Josh
  #55  
Old 11-06-2013, 09:13 PM
saltydog452 saltydog452 is offline
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Hammer hooks?

Is a similar device available for hammer hooks?

Thanks,

salty
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  #56  
Old 11-06-2013, 11:13 PM
nickb nickb is offline
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Does anyone have experience with the Harrison ignition set with the TR sear? I only have 2 1911's so it would be more practical for me to buy this set rather than the jig and everything else to do 2 sears. Thanks.

Sorry if it's too off topic.
  #57  
Old 11-06-2013, 11:28 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickb View Post
Does anyone have experience with the Harrison ignition set with the TR sear? I only have 2 1911's so it would be more practical for me to buy this set rather than the jig and everything else to do 2 sears. Thanks.

Sorry if it's too off topic.
The TR sears are excellent!

LOG
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  #58  
Old 11-07-2013, 01:06 PM
hijumperrs2 hijumperrs2 is offline
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marvel makes a hammer and sear jig really nice but not cheap,power custom used to make a hammer jig a long time ago,i could be wrong though.me i do it the old fashioned way.take a .030 feeler gauge stone one edge perfectally flat and use it to square the hammer hooks.use a .020 or less if your bold feeler gauge,lay it on the hammer and slowly cut (stone) hammer hook height watching all the way.then mate up sear and hammer to see that sear and hammer are mated perfectally ensuring both hammer hooks release sear at same time.now for my last trick. use the same feeler gauge that you stoned,wrap(fold) a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper on the squared edge and slowly polish the hammer hooks.use an optilupe or magnifying glass at all times. old school i know but it works
  #59  
Old 11-07-2013, 01:47 PM
Blue68F100 Blue68F100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickb View Post
Does anyone have experience with the Harrison ignition set with the TR sear? I only have 2 1911's so it would be more practical for me to buy this set rather than the jig and everything else to do 2 sears. Thanks.

Sorry if it's too off topic.
I have a set in my 1911. Very good. Very smooth, finish is excellent. All I needed to do was adj the back cut to my liking. The hammer hook and sear are already polished from the grinding process, ready to use. I need to order another set for my Kimber.
  #60  
Old 11-07-2013, 03:07 PM
nickb nickb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue68F100 View Post
I have a set in my 1911. Very good. Very smooth, finish is excellent. All I needed to do was adj the back cut to my liking. The hammer hook and sear are already polished from the grinding process, ready to use. I need to order another set for my Kimber.
I will be ordering a set shortly.
  #61  
Old 12-04-2013, 04:40 PM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian R. View Post
Now what we need is a jig for a radiused and blended relief cut.

The TR PRO Jig is finalized, being tested, and will appear within a week or so...





CW
  #62  
Old 12-05-2013, 05:22 PM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=439047

Thanks!

CW
  #63  
Old 12-14-2013, 03:00 AM
bubbapug1 bubbapug1 is offline
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Has anyone made a video of the jig in use?
  #64  
Old 12-14-2013, 03:37 AM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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As for the Pro jig, no. none have shipped as of today. We intend to do so, but not until the first of the year.



CW
  #65  
Old 01-06-2014, 10:23 PM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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Boxes are going out tomorrow....
  #66  
Old 01-20-2014, 01:33 PM
log man log man is offline
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Tr pro

The TR Pro Jig is the answer to all the questions of the pro, or amateur, doing a trigger job. I got mine a couple days ago, and found the added features it provides, give the user the ability to produce a first class trigger job, with little experience. The discs are matched to each other by simply being identical, not left or right, so as mentioned in the instructions the markings should face the same on both discs. They are marked off for the four sizes that cover the radius for the longest, .405" to .402" which provides the ability to re-do a sear several times. And to have the ability to always give the sear the longest possible life. Actually, once a sear and hammer are fitted and tuned they will give dependable service for many 10's of thousands of rounds.

To better understand the TR geometry I believe an explanation of the traditional sear prep should be stated and understood to clearly see how, and why the TR concept is functional, dependable, and safe.

The traditional sear is designed to have a primary face that is 90° to a line drawn from the pivot center to the tip. If you have not considered this, you might envision it this way. Mentally draw a circle with a line through the center to the edge. Now where this line crosses the arc another line square to it. This is the sear primary face geometry, and you can clearly see that any point past this square point will be further from the center point. So with a traditional sear the hammer hooks land on a point slightly higher than the escape edge. If the primary where cut slightly less than the 90°, the hook tips would land on a spot slightly lower than the escape edge. The 90° sear allows the sear to snap out cleanly, while the other will stack. A couple strokes with a stone can take a sear to either side. The point that was interesting to grasp, is with a flat primary there isn't any middle or neutral ground. This is not to say that a traditional cut sear can't snap out cleanly, they most certainly can, and is the fitters goal.

If the sear is cut so the primary is slightly more than 90° then hammer follow or doubling will occur as the sear will pop out, and the opposite makes for a hard stacking pull.

These are simply the things one learns with experience, when using the traditional sear prep trigger job.

The TR concept is the only true geometrically neutral release, by the simple fact that the primary face is a true radius from the center of the pivot. This then means, that the point on the TR prepped sear primary face, where the hammer hooks land, is exactly the same distance from the pivot center, as the escape edge. So it isn't + or -, but truly neutral. Truly a safe engagement. And the sear snaps out cleanly and crisp.

Here is an EGW sear that is long enough to radius at the longest setting of .405", note you can see both discs are facing the same.



Here is the sear positioned on one disc with the pins, shown for clarity, next to the picture from the included directions to clearly show how the sear is positioned with both discs for the secondary cut.



LOG
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  #67  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:01 PM
nickb nickb is offline
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Thanks for the write up and explanation. Helps a newbie like me understand more of the geometry.
  #68  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:09 PM
Jolly Rogers Jolly Rogers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by log man View Post

Here is the sear positioned on one disc with the pins, shown for clarity, next to the picture from the included directions to clearly show how the sear is positioned with both discs for the secondary cut.



LOG
Note the distance from the sear blocking surface to the stone. This geometry will insure a close to 45 degree escape angle. This distance is usually called out at .020" to stone the angle. As you can see this small a shim will generate a much steeper escape angle and can cause the sear to rotate into the hooks and actually reduce pretravel. This can cause other unwanted performance issues.
Good work Chuck, and you too Log, showing the positive aspects of this system!
Joe
  #69  
Old 01-27-2014, 10:13 PM
SpikeCCW SpikeCCW is offline
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Genius...Cwarner just reinvented wheel...what are we talking...100 years of sear jigs?

Thanks...

Spike
  #70  
Old 02-02-2014, 03:02 AM
16vcabman 16vcabman is offline
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Plus one on rubbing the side with some sand paper. I was amazed how much this helped make a smoother gun in many sear parts.
  #71  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:31 AM
Harry_Callahan Harry_Callahan is offline
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Hello folks, can anyone give me feedback on the Wilson Deluxe Bullet Proof® Sear A-2 with the "old" jig?

is the Wilson Sear long enough?

No problems with the MIM Value Line Wilson, but I've recieved an A-2 sear from a friend and was short, not getting the rolling effect

my friend said it was new, but I hope he didn't mix it with another sear(in good faith)
  #72  
Old 02-11-2014, 04:17 PM
buggsb buggsb is offline
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So where do we go to order the "pro" jig? I just placed an order on Brownells and THEN saw the end of this thread, realizing that there was a new and improved product.
  #73  
Old 02-19-2014, 09:35 AM
Harry_Callahan Harry_Callahan is offline
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Unfortunately the Wilson A-2 Bullet proof sears are short

I had a chance to try a brand new one and with the "old" jig and it is short

asap I get an EGW or the new jig
  #74  
Old 03-24-2014, 07:04 PM
harleyhopper harleyhopper is offline
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I wanted to say thanks to Chuck W for the jig and Log Man for the thread. I just finished up doing an old Argentine .45 that had a terrible trigger. I used the original jig. Easy peasy. Pull is so much better. Before, the pull was so hard that you could not keep on target. I'm gonna take my Rock Island appart now to take a look at the sear in it. It is amazingly nice. Don't think I'll touch it, though. Again, thanks, Steve
  #75  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:21 AM
harleyhopper harleyhopper is offline
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Just got back from shooting a box. All together a different gun. Super! Thanks, Steve
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