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  #26  
Old 03-25-2012, 12:17 AM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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I appreciate the support guys. I will have the cc thing done soon, but with working on parts full time, I have delayed it a little in order to add the new stuff at the same time as card capability.
If the snail mail is too slow, Dave Berryhill has them in stock and does take cards.
I have been working on the ignition sets, and have a little more testing to do.

I have switched from a vendor for my sears to attempting them in house.

I hope to use the Berryhill and Harrison hammers in the complete sets.

As an update, with a traditional sear primary, I have always found a pin center to sear nose length to be unsatisfactory below .403 for me.
Print spec calls out .4045 and the Jig is designed for that start length or close.
However, I have had a lot of inquiries about shorter sears, and have tested
the TR down to.400.....zero hammer follow, even at lighter pulls.
I am working with a couple fellow gunsmiths to see if its a viable option to make the Jigs in different sizes, or offer a set to accommodate a larger variety of sizes.
The Jig itself is rather foolproof, but I am VERY hesitant to get far off of print spec....time will tell.

The ignition sets will consist of a hammer, sear, disco,strut and strut cap.
There will be two styles of hammers, and sets tailored for light 9mm down to .22 conversions and sets for standard 9mm and above.
The sets for light 9mm down to .22 will come with a proprietary firing pin stop as well.

The BHP is covered as well, and I am finalizing the details.

The hammer Jig is probably overkill, but works like a champ. It will be available as quick as I can get the other stuff streamlined.
The offshoots from the sear have been pretty cool and fastmoving. but nothings gonna appear until I'm sure that
a) Its gotta be functionally better or easier than whats already available
b) I have to be able to deliver it consistantly and timely
c) I hit the lotta for all the bucks going into this....
d)...and they have to be cool...

I appreciate all the support in this, and I will update this with the new stuff as soon as I have all of it ready...no sooner.

CW
  #27  
Old 03-26-2012, 06:48 PM
JDSig JDSig is offline
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Thanks for the update Chuck. The TR Sear Jig is great. I've only done 2 guns with it, both yielded 2lb 4oz Trigger jobs, that were some of the best I ever felt.

The one I did on a full Extreme Engineering Light Speed kit was REALLY, really good.

The other was on a EE sear paired with a Keonig hammer, it was good, but not as good as the other. (I have doubts about who cut the hammer the first time, which may be part of the issue.)
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 04:06 AM
stardust tommy stardust tommy is offline
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a few days back my TR sear jig was arrived (thanks mr Warner for the effort to send them to Europe).

I prepped 3 sears, 2 cheap MIM sears and 1 STI S7. without adjusting the the searspring the triggerpull dropped .55 lbs to 2.2 lbs.

I also tried to do something different, instead of polishing with a fine stone I took the searjig and clamped it between my fingers and used some 1500 grid emery cloth on a glass plate to polish. my finest stone is about 1000 or 1200 grid. worked great.

this sear jig is a pleasure to work with!

gr T
  #29  
Old 03-08-2013, 03:38 PM
kodiakpb kodiakpb is offline
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Raising this from the depths to say thanks to Chuck for answering all my questions over the phone and for this outstanding Jig.

Thanks also goes out to Log Man. His expertise caused me to research more of his posts ...where I found this.

As such, I now have a TR-Jig enroute, along with a Cylinder & Slide Sear and Disconnector (I hope I chose wisely on those). This will all be fitted to a 10-8 hammer along with a 10-8 Thumb Saftey on my TRP as soon as they become available.

With Logman's pictures and Chucks outstanding Jig...I'm confident that I will get the Sear fit properly. The Thumb Safety fitting I am still researching, but will make sure that I am as confident as I am about the Sear fitting before I tackle everything together.
  #30  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:03 PM
Trader Trader is offline
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What brand sears did Chuck recommend buying to use on the TR jig? I can't find that post anywhere. Seems I remember C&S and STI were on that list.
Thanks
  #31  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:28 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trader View Post
What brand sears did Chuck recommend buying to use on the TR jig? I can't find that post anywhere. Seems I remember C&S and STI were on that list.
Thanks
EGW as well, and the one in the pics is a Nowlin. As well as the sears John Harrison sells and Dave Berryhill's also are all long enough.

LOG
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Last edited by log man; 06-17-2013 at 11:02 PM.
  #32  
Old 07-26-2013, 06:13 PM
Brian R. Brian R. is offline
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Now what we need is a jig for a radiused and blended relief cut.
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Last edited by Brian R.; 07-26-2013 at 06:18 PM.
  #33  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:20 AM
CWarner CWarner is offline
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Stay tuned....more is forthcoming.
  #34  
Old 07-27-2013, 10:01 AM
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thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
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Originally Posted by CWarner View Post
Stay tuned....more is forthcoming.
Looking forward to this.
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  #35  
Old 08-22-2013, 05:45 PM
P45 P45 is offline
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If I understand correctly, using a.060 shim to cut the secondary angle will reduce primary engagement more than using a .040 shim. Am I correct?
  #36  
Old 08-22-2013, 06:15 PM
log man log man is offline
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Originally Posted by P45 View Post
If I understand correctly, using a.060 shim to cut the secondary angle will reduce primary engagement more than using a .040 shim. Am I correct?
No, not really the point. The reduction in engagement is how much cut from the primary. However some sears, most perhaps, will rotate into the hammer hooks further when a .020" shim is used as suggested in many publications. This is due to the removing of material that had been stopping the sears rotation into the hammer hooks. So by using a thicker shim the relief will not be at as much of an angle to the primary, leaving more of the tip that stops the sears rotation and engagement. So the statement by the OP is true to a point of understanding.

LOG
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  #37  
Old 09-01-2013, 06:11 PM
jimmythebrain jimmythebrain is offline
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This is a rather stupid question, but I am a newbie at sear work.

When the stone work is being done, on the TR Jig and using the feeler gauge to cut the relief angle...are these push cuts or pull cuts? I know that files only cut one way but stones are bi-directional. I was just thinking about sharpening knives and the wire edge that develops.

Also, thank you for the TR Jig development and all the helpful information here on the 1911 forum. This thread is definitely a sticky.
  #38  
Old 09-01-2013, 06:51 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmythebrain View Post
This is a rather stupid question, but I am a newbie at sear work.

When the stone work is being done, on the TR Jig and using the feeler gauge to cut the relief angle...are these push cuts or pull cuts? I know that files only cut one way but stones are bi-directional. I was just thinking about sharpening knives and the wire edge that develops.

Also, thank you for the TR Jig development and all the helpful information here on the 1911 forum. This thread is definitely a sticky.
The relief cut is not to sharpen an edge, but to shorten engagement. Back and forth is fine.

LOG
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  #39  
Old 09-02-2013, 06:41 PM
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AndyC AndyC is offline
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A couple of notes:

1. the Wilson "value" sear is also long enough for the TR jig (I bought this to practice on).

2. a hacksaw blade (.025" thick) will work in a pinch to cut the relief (my wife misplaced the feeler gauges)

Cut the primary/relief to about 60/40, using Eyeball Mk I - now to drop this puppy into my frame...
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Last edited by AndyC; 09-02-2013 at 06:43 PM.
  #40  
Old 09-02-2013, 07:31 PM
Steel head Steel head is offline
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I ordered a TR jig, hope to have it by the end of the week.
  #41  
Old 09-02-2013, 07:33 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyC View Post
A couple of notes:

1. the Wilson "value" sear is also long enough for the TR jig (I bought this to practice on).

2. a hacksaw blade (.025" thick) will work in a pinch to cut the relief (my wife misplaced the feeler gauges)

Cut the primary/relief to about 60/40, using Eyeball Mk I - now to drop this puppy into my frame...
Well, might as well try, if hammer hooks are .020" and sear face was .030", with 60/40 you have .008" of engagement at the absolute most. But then with the .023" shim the sear will probably rotate in more.....so let us know.

I really wouldn't use a hack saw blade as the teeth would hold one side higher. I have used un-embossed credit type cards however.

LOG
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  #42  
Old 09-02-2013, 07:44 PM
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The hammer hooks on the new hammer are .022" (Wilson) - and I did keep the teeth of the saw-blade off the side of the stone, so hopefully it works.

If I happen to have screwed up anything, I still have the original parts...
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  #43  
Old 09-06-2013, 10:05 PM
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Finally had time to fit everything together this evening.

OMFG, as the kids say! Smooth as a whistle, passed all the safety-checks, no hammer-follow. This jig is the bee's knees, the cat's meow, the dog's bollocks... Seriously impressed. Hell of a good job, Mr Warner.
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  #44  
Old 09-06-2013, 10:28 PM
Steel head Steel head is offline
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I got to use my TR jig today.
Results were great.
Very easy to use.
  #45  
Old 09-07-2013, 01:04 PM
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Test-fired 100 rounds (first 10 shots were 2 in the mag only, to check for doubling).

Everything ran perfectly - this now feels like a professionally-customized gun. A couple of fellers at the range felt the trigger-pull and were very impressed - wanted to give me their pistols right then and there!
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  #46  
Old 09-11-2013, 08:28 PM
ScotchCreekCustom ScotchCreekCustom is offline
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Any hammer follow? What was the pull weight?
  #47  
Old 09-12-2013, 02:24 PM
Harry_Callahan Harry_Callahan is offline
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I'm happy to read that many are trying the TR Jig

Mr. Warner is a really nice person
Thanks again to log man too for all the good info

I'm using a Wilson Value Sear on my Kimber US Team Match II and got 2.4lbs(1.1Kg) trigger pull, but I'm using a very light mainspring(Wolff 15lb)

I only shoot 200 grain LSWC with CCI LP

Best Regards from Italy!

PS - I've been told by Wilson that my Value Sear has a 0.036 face

Last edited by Harry_Callahan; 09-12-2013 at 02:26 PM.
  #48  
Old 09-12-2013, 10:07 PM
Steel head Steel head is offline
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Any hammer follow? What was the pull weight?
None for me.
3lb 12oz average.
  #49  
Old 09-13-2013, 08:51 AM
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Any hammer follow? What was the pull weight?
None - I was hoping for around 4lbs, and got 4.1 lbs measured 10-12 times with a electronic Lyman gauge. I was more concerned with smoothness - boy, did I ever get it
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  #50  
Old 10-21-2013, 10:06 PM
Joshua M. Smith Joshua M. Smith is online now
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