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  #26  
Old 03-31-2009, 06:59 PM
leade45 leade45 is offline
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For the range, a light layer of Tetra Grease (get it for cheap...) and Miltec 1 oil.
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  #27  
Old 04-01-2009, 11:30 AM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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I do want to try the Mobile 1 one day. So far, I'm still stuck on good ol' Breakfree CLP. In fact, I saw in a store this morning that it now comes in a pump-spray bottle, which I liked! No more spraying long, thin jets, which wastes it and sure makes a mess on whatever's behind the part if you miss.

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Last edited by BigJon; 04-01-2009 at 03:49 PM. Reason: To specify the CLP I like is "Breakfree" CLP
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2009, 11:40 AM
maximus83 maximus83 is offline
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I have such outstanding success with CorrosionX, both as a protectant AND as a lube for everything in my collection, I don't even try new lubes very often anymore. When friends ask what I recommend, I say CorrosionX.

However, there are lots of good choices out there. Two others that I probably would use, if I didn't like CorrosionX so much, are:

* Weapon Shield
* Mpro-7 CLP: specifically their CLP product, not the cleaner, and not the standalone "gun oil". The CLP product is their best stuff, and combined with the standalone cleaner, these 2 products provide a great combo. The CLP has an amazing operating temperature range (-85 to 452 f), and provides excellent lubing and protection qualities while not pooling, drying, attracting grit, or slinging off. I have some on hand, but still like my CorrosionX slightly better. Plus the Mpro-7 CLP product is harder to find in large quantities, and VERY expensive.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2009, 04:18 PM
ridgerunner ridgerunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69charger View Post
Once a week, like it or not. I still like Mobil 1 10-30.
you all are talking about mobil 1 motor oil. the oil for your truck motors?? and if so is it alright to use on blued guns???
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  #30  
Old 04-01-2009, 05:32 PM
69charger 69charger is offline
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Yep. Good old auto engine oil. I only have stainless in my ARSENAL ( hehehaha) and have never had an issue with staining or lube on moving parts. I put it on with a small, crafts, oil paint brush. Maybe some one with a COLORED gun can chime in here and give more info about any issues they may have had.? I don't think it will be a prob.
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  #31  
Old 04-01-2009, 05:36 PM
Caspian17 Caspian17 is offline
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Works fine on my ORIGINAL (not colored) blued guns.
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  #32  
Old 04-01-2009, 05:44 PM
69charger 69charger is offline
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My bad. OK BLUE gun. Just tryin to be politically correct.
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  #33  
Old 04-01-2009, 07:31 PM
Garand_1947 Garand_1947 is offline
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+1 on Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil 10W40. It works fine on both blue, stainless and polymer.

As an aside, one of my favorite gun scrubin substances is old fashioned mineral spirits. After a quick scrubbing, hit it with some compressed air and relube. Save the expensive solvents for the bore.

Dave
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  #34  
Old 04-01-2009, 08:57 PM
R_CRUZ R_CRUZ is offline
 
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Molybdenum disulphide grease on the rails and Mobil 1 for everything else.
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  #35  
Old 04-02-2009, 08:01 AM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus83 View Post
Two others that I probably would use, if I didn't like CorrosionX so much, are:

* Weapon Shield
* Mpro-7 CLP
Yes, glad you mentioned the Weapon Shield, maximus. I got in on that try-it-for-free thing they had going awhile back, and I did like it very much. I still have some left, and I'll probably buy some when it's used up.

One more thing I'm surprised I forgot to mention is XF-7 by MD Labs (http://www.mdtactical.com/mdlabs/XF7.htm). This stuff is friggin' incredible - really superb both as a lube and as a protectant. It's the protectant aspect that has been such a huge benefit to me. Down here in Central Alabama it's quite humid and warm for much of the year, and blued guns and unfinished carbon-steel barrel hoods will develop surface rust in very, very short order if packed under a truck seat. When I do a full disassemble and clean of my "truck guns," I rub each part down with XF-7 and then wipe it off thorougly - I mean I really scrub with a rag to try to wipe it off to the point that it's hard to tell by feel whether or not any is even left on the metal. Since I started doing that, I have yet to have anything develop even a molecule of surface rust. It is very, very impressive stuff - the applied protectant I've ever seen ever seen by a wide margin.

Editing to Add This about XF-7 Grease: Here's another little write-up (there are lots of others on the web too) about XF-7: http://www.botachtactical.com/mdlabs1.html. Mentioning this one because it was something I had not known about it: "[XF-7] continues to protect at high cyclic rates and at high temperatures of up to 500 degrees F. XF7 guards metal surfaces in marine and under-water environments; it continues to work even in boiling salt water." If it'll do that, I can understand why it would laugh at a humid truck cab.

Best,
Jon
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Last edited by BigJon; 04-02-2009 at 08:21 AM. Reason: Adding additional information on XF-7 Weapon
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  #36  
Old 04-02-2009, 08:21 AM
Garand_1947 Garand_1947 is offline
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Here is an interesting test of various rust-preventatives:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Dave
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  #37  
Old 04-02-2009, 09:01 AM
Beau Beau is offline
 
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wow, never thought of mobil 1...when i was a kid my uncle use to poor whatever automotive oil that was in the garage at the time in a coffee jar shove a rag in let it get saturated and then wipe the guns down. i just assumed that it was a cheap way of getting the job done (and it was) and that a firearms lubricant that cost an arm and a leg was better for the gun. now that has been 30 years ago. and i am finding out he was probably using the best thing at that time and now the only difference is that today you can get a better motor oil because its synthetic.
i have always used breakfree clp and i use a little montana's extreme grease on my 1911s but just the clp on everything else. that will change, i will start using the mobil 1. that's a no brainer, what 6.00 for 4 oz of breakfree or 6.99 for an entire qt. of mobil 1?
keep in mind i am in alabama it never gets extremely cold here, but humidity will rust that stainless beauty. i don't have to worry about grease gumming because it's too cold. just have to worry about the rust...for the most part
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  #38  
Old 04-02-2009, 09:48 AM
tacticalyoga tacticalyoga is offline
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After 50+ years of shooting I have found that FX7 is hands down the best. MD Labs makes it and sells it. Brownells also stocks it.
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  #39  
Old 04-02-2009, 10:19 AM
ken_mays ken_mays is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garand_1947 View Post
Here is an interesting test of various rust-preventatives:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Dave
Thanks for that link, those tests always fascinate me. I ran my own several years ago, and my results were nearly identical. Eezox and BreakFree came out on top.

Interestingly enough, I no longer use either of those for much. When they both failed to solve a particularly consistent rust problem I was having with my Springfield XD, I didn't see much point in continuing to use them.

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  #40  
Old 04-02-2009, 10:26 AM
maximus83 maximus83 is offline
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I wouldn't necessarily fault solutions like BF CLP or Eezox, just because they cannot REMOVE rust. Their job is more to protect from rust in the first place; I would not expect them to remove existing rust very well. There is a known problem with older XD's (those that were before they started using melonite on them), and this rust problem is not likely to be solved by ordinary CLP solutions, it's an inherent defect in the gun's finish. Springfield would have to resolve this for you (and they will, if you send it back to them, they usually even cover shipping).

If you need a rust remover, there are some other approaches (such as using green scotch brite pads), combined with other solutions (like Bull Frog rust remover, or Flitz metal polish, to give 2 examples) that would do a better job of removal.
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  #41  
Old 04-02-2009, 11:06 AM
ken_mays ken_mays is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus83 View Post
I wouldn't necessarily fault solutions like BF CLP or Eezox, just because they cannot REMOVE rust. Their job is more to protect from rust in the first place; I would not expect them to remove existing rust very well. There is a known problem with older XD's (those that were before they started using melonite on them), and this rust problem is not likely to be solved by ordinary CLP solutions, it's an inherent defect in the gun's finish. Springfield would have to resolve this for you (and they will, if you send it back to them, they usually even cover shipping).

If you need a rust remover, there are some other approaches (such as using green scotch brite pads), combined with other solutions (like Bull Frog rust remover, or Flitz metal polish, to give 2 examples) that would do a better job of removal.
Oh, I know all that. I'd put BreakFree on that gun, and with a couple wipes, the rust would be gone. It's not your typical rust problem, like you said, it's something unique to those early XDs. At the time I was all over the XDtalk forum.

If that'd happened to a regular blued gun, the finish would be pitted and gone. Now the finish shows holster wear and that's about it; you can't tell it's ever been that rusty.

But what it did teach me is that most gun oils work well when the gun is sitting around. When you fire and handle the gun for any length of time, most of the protectant is effectively gone where you've touched it. The best thing I found to hold up to that was wax, and even it wasn't perfect.
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  #42  
Old 04-02-2009, 01:09 PM
FJM25 FJM25 is offline
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Any harm in using the USGI M1 grease - you know the clear little pots with the yellow caps? I use sparingly on the rail and locking lug areas of my 1911.
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  #43  
Old 04-02-2009, 04:52 PM
ridgerunner ridgerunner is offline
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how about some kroil on that springfield? havent ever used it on a gun just on old rusty take- ups at work. it really breaks the rust and grit down. we have it by the gallons. anyway dont know how it would work on a gun?
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  #44  
Old 04-02-2009, 05:21 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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It works great for cleaning and freeing up sticky parts, ridge, but it's my understanding (and also my impression) it may not be as good as other things in the lube and protection categories - not "bad," just not as good for those as other options.

Best,
Jon
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  #45  
Old 04-02-2009, 05:32 PM
ridgerunner ridgerunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
It works great for cleaning and freeing up sticky parts, ridge, but it's my understanding (and also my impression) it may not be as good as other things in the lube and protection categories - not "bad," just not as good for those as other options.

Best,
Jon
roger that
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  #46  
Old 04-02-2009, 05:33 PM
ridgerunner ridgerunner is offline
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back on the mobil 1 10-40 just a little dab here and there. wipe off access and rock n roll???
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  #47  
Old 04-02-2009, 05:41 PM
Auto Mag Auto Mag is offline
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Try some Slide Glide from Brian Enos!!!! You just might like it!!
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  #48  
Old 04-02-2009, 07:48 PM
MZ5 MZ5 is offline
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Plain old grease. I have a tub (not tube) that I bought for my dirt bike's axles and such long ago that I still have a whole bunch of. It's a Silkolene synthetic. I've tried dedicated 'firearms' greases, and though they work fine, frankly they appear to me to be about the same as most 'firearms'-labeled products: Hyper-expensive packages of the same thing you can get at the auto parts store. Most gun greases look to me to be NLGI #0 greases (some may be #00, maybe some are even #1). I don't have any issues running #2 ('standard' automotive consistency/thickness), so that's what I use.

IME, grease works much better for wear protection of slides, locking lugs, etc. than any oil, automotive or otherwise.

Last edited by MZ5; 04-02-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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  #49  
Old 04-02-2009, 08:12 PM
ljutic ljutic is offline
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CMD in the summer and Tri Flow in the winter.
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  #50  
Old 04-02-2009, 08:55 PM
Chief7700 Chief7700 is offline
 
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Weapon Shield year around.
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