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  #1  
Old 08-06-2012, 02:05 AM
j bird j bird is offline
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deciding on trigger kit and trigger

I'm 90% sure I'll get one of the Harrison kits through Dawson Precision. I've read really good things and I really like their hammers.
I'm also about 90% sure I'll get the Greider solid short trigger.
Any words of encouragement?
Will the Harrison lite speed II skeletonized bobbed spur hammer work with my stock pt beavertail?
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:16 PM
jstanfield103 jstanfield103 is offline
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I don't know about the Harrison hammer, but my skeletonized hammer barely touches the beaver tail, just barely though. Does not effect function.
Good Luck


By jstanfield at 2012-07-11
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2012, 05:31 PM
j bird j bird is offline
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Oh jeez! I mixed up brands. I meant Extreme Engineering light speed kit w/ hammer through Dawson.
I think I'll take it slow and start with the trigger.
Greider's bow is a smidge long in some brands of frames.
Has anyone found a short solid trigger with a 'pt' length bow?
I may only get the hammer (ee lt spd) as I like the stock pt thumb safety and it may not be able to be fitted to the ee sear.
Also, the Taurus lockwork (after cleaning) seems pretty good.
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Last edited by j bird; 08-07-2012 at 06:14 PM.
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:02 AM
chuntaro chuntaro is offline
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In the three Taurus guns that I requested hammer replacement we did a complete ignition swap including disco and sear. This kept material and heat treat consistent in the bearing surfaces. We kept the Taurus trigger in one it seems and used Sti composite triggers in two. Running the grieder solid in several colts. I prefer it to any perforated trigger out there except the Sti. The nighthawk and the brown hammers I have used do not make contact with the Taurus grip safety.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:45 PM
j bird j bird is offline
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Thanks for the tips, Chuntaro.
I do like the Greider.
But now I'm now wondering about no pretravel adjustment on any of these short shoed style triggers.
Has that been problematic?
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:35 PM
chuntaro chuntaro is offline
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In a fair number of 1911s, I think I am only running one short trigger and it is stock. The rest of my triggers are medium and long. I pass these off to someone else to work on but I think there is more than one way to skin a cat as to trigger quirks.
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2012, 09:47 PM
j bird j bird is offline
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I'm leaning towards the Wilson now.
Having pre travel adjustment tabs just seems to make sense to me.
Also, I'm leaning toward the extreme engineering super match 5 piece trigger kit through Dawson for only $111.34.
It's a handsome trigger.
After seeing a pic of ee's or c&s' skeletonized spur hammer on a pt, I think I like some commander styles better.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:01 AM
crashoverrideplik crashoverrideplik is offline
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I replaced the hammer on my 9 mm PT1911 with a Ed Brown hardcore. The sear/disco remained stock, but my sear spring is a C&S. The what I assume was the stock sear spring, on my gun did not function to my liking. The middle spring finger seemed like it had been worked on by the PO with a file and not in a good way. The GS popped when the hammer was pulled back. It now doesn't do that. If you were looking for a "kit" the C&S stuff is very nice. I have them in several guns. Be sure to get the 5 piece kit so all of your ignition parts are replaced. You will also need a new hammer strut and pin.

I'm going with either a 10-8 flat trigger or the Wilson Ultra light match flat trigger. I blame Quark for my flat trigger problem as now several of my guns have them. I tried a Caspian Trik trigger and a STI lightweight. I didn't like the look of either in the gun.
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  #9  
Old 08-23-2012, 01:20 AM
j bird j bird is offline
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I was wondering about the strut and pin.
For one thing, the stock pt strut is rough.
The especially handsome hammers from extreme engineering look much like the C&S hammers.
The Ti strut from sti looks sweet.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:18 AM
chuntaro chuntaro is offline
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The stock strut is supposed to have a special angle to it cause of the lawyer lock. The stock strut is a stamping and not pretty to look at. In some guns, I have felt them making excessive contact with the grip safety. If you replace a hammer, I would exercise the opportunity to replace the strut.
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  #11  
Old 08-23-2012, 01:49 PM
j bird j bird is offline
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When I get all the parts, I'll be taking it to John Semm @ Shooters Service Center outside of Portland, OR.
I know I could get lucky and get away with minor fitting I can do myself, but I'd like to know absolutely positively my fire control is 100% safe and to spec.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:47 AM
RaginDmon RaginDmon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashoverrideplik View Post
I'm going with either a 10-8 flat trigger or the Wilson Ultra light match flat trigger. I blame Quark for my flat trigger problem as now several of my guns have them. I tried a Caspian Trik trigger and a STI lightweight. I didn't like the look of either in the gun.
Hey, everyone. I recently purchased a Springfield GI model that I had a beavertail put on, and well, long story short, I replaced some other things, too. In for a penny, in for a pound.
Anywho, I replaced the factory trigger with one of the 10-8 Performance flat triggers and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT! You can put your finger anywhere on the face of it and get a straight pull to the rear. Maybe it's just perception, but it instilled confidence in me that the trigger was going to work.
Does it replace proper finger placement for good marksmanship? No. However, in a situation where your fight or flight response kicks in, not many people have trained enough to get that finger placement perfect.
With all that being said, I recommend the 10-8 performance triggers, and will be replacing the stock one in my Taurus.
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