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How to remove staked Wilson bushings

5K views 53 replies 24 participants last post by  Monroe 
#1 ·
OK. I've read up on this and have a few older threads, but I'm again determined to install slim grips on my Wilson. The difficulty is in getting the bushings out. I tried with a bushing wrench but the bushings are in there to stay... I should also add that I have the lightweight frame.

So, should I try to just dremel the bushing to fit slim grips or how do I get the bushings out?

Thnx!!!
 
#10 ·
Barring sending it in if I was forced into dealing with a "STUCK" bushing I would try drilling it out in a drill press to the point that they are very thin and easily reefed out with the aid of an EZ-Out... But with that being said I'd also make sure to have on hand the proper thread tap so that I can clean up the threads when I was done with the removal....
 
#13 ·
If you don't get the swage fully removed you will ruin the threads when you back them out. They have probably designed a special spot face tool to do the job. Even a skilled machinist would need to improvise a tool of some sort. My advise is to send it to them.
 
#16 ·
We don't use the word "Dremel" on the Wilson sub-board, and the very premise of the thread terrifies me.

Send the gun in and let the team at Wilson's take care of this for you properly, please.

Nothing about what you've just proposed falls within your current skill set, and there is real potential here for you to do some serious damage to a very costly frame.

AC
 
#21 ·
A Dremel is "like" a Foredom. But Foredoms are more sophisticated and cost more. A pro shop is likely to have a Foredom, whereas a home shop, do it your selfer, is more likely to have the Dremel. Its the implication/inference that happens when someone says they're gonna use a Dremel. They are more likely to be a guy without machinists tools, including the "software" to do it right....

No offense intended here either.
 
#23 ·
OK. So, after receiving response from a WC master gunsmith along with a follow-up phone call, my plan is as follows. First, I'm going to compare the slim bushings (once I receive them) against the currently installed bushings looking to trim off a little of the original and use them with thin grips. If for whatever reason that does not work, I will follow below recommendation and attempt to carefully remove them.

Three points to clarify from phone call:
1) The WC master gunsmith said they don't shave anything off the inside prior to removing.
2) He said I could loosen loctite with a bic lighter. I asked about soldering gun and he shied away from that.
3) I read that to help avoid marring the threads to loosen and then screw back in slightly and loosen and screw back in slightly to help bend the bushing slowly instead of straight forcing it out the hole.

Is it smarter to send it into WC? Yes! Am I smart? LOL...:scratch:

WC Master Gunsmith said:
We normally use loc tite on all of the bushings, even the staked ones. First we apply enough heat to break down the loc tite and then use the bushing tool. If the bushing tool does not remove them then we will use vise grips to remove them. You will destroy the bushings this way but that is about the only way they will come out. After removing them we normally run a bushing tap through each hole to clean up the threads. WARNING When removing staked grip bushings you can strip the existing threads in the frame and will need to re-tap with an oversize bushing tap and replace with oversize bushings.
Wish me luck!!!
 
#25 ·
I think the point here has a lot less to do with what the OP wants to actually do, and more to do with the fact that he has no real experience doing it and it trying to do it to a premium-class pistol.

I've changed out bushings before, so I'm not suggesting it requires any particular magic or fine motor skills. That said, there is just no way that I would ever want to do it to a WC gun; especially when you know that the shop will take good care of you and remove any potential for error. The alloy frame also presents a relevant concern here, but I'm not even going to go there.

My standard advice on these kinds of topics is that, if you suddenly develop an irresistible compulsion to work on a 1911 -- with or without a Dremel -- then you need to go out and buy yourself a RIA, hit the garage workbench and knock yourself out. Just don't start experimenting on a $4k pistol that is almost guaranteed to be in far better condition when you start your project than it will be once you've finished making your "improvements." ;)

AC
 
#26 ·
AC,

As always, you provide sound advice and I'm not arguing. As you noted, it's in my nature. I don't think I'll permanently screw anything up, and if I get in a pickle I can't get out of, I will send it in. That being said and based off conversation with WC, it "sounds" doable at the house. It does take some kahunas to work on expensive stuff and most certainly isn't the best place to start. As mentioned, while this pistol is expensive, it doesn't compare in price to the motorcycle or car I've successfully tore apart and put back together...

I'll let you all know how it goes! :rock:
 
#29 ·
Once your "in a pickle you can't get out of",,,,,, your probably screwed. This is an "alloy" frame (aluminum??) and once you say "OHHHH ****",,,,, your done. Game over.

I have a couple of high end pistols that I wanted thin grips on and even bought the correct bushing tool. It took me all of 7.5 mins to decide that the pistols were going to a gunsmith to change the bushings. And they were carbon steel frames. It wasn't worth the risk to me. For $65.00 at a local smith,,,,, ain't doing it myself.

Yeah,,,,, I've got mechanical talent,,,, did this one entirely myself..


Screwing up the bushing on one of my beloved 1911's,,,,,,,,, nope,,, ain't happening.
 
#46 ·
Yeah,,,,, I've got mechanical talent,,,, did this one entirely myself..
thundrr1, first pic is before and last pic is after? :rofl:
Just kidding... Good job!
 
#30 ·
Let me say I am not one of the mechanically gifts to the extent of many of you. However, I may be savvier in the area of business. From the outside, the pattern shown in this thread is because of Wilson customer service. Note: I have no horse in this race.

I’m reasonably sure that AC (May I refer to you in the shorthand?) gets no referral fee from strongly suggesting someone bring their work to Wilson. I’m even more convinced that such a small project will not get WCR a well-deserved, expense paid trip to Hawaii. So why is Wilson to “blame”?

It is remarkable that a company will spend time to answer questions on how to customize a product. More remarkable to the extent they stand behind customers. I have a new CQBE that had a warranty issue and with quick turnaround, including numerous calls to make sure the problem was exactly understood and diagnosed, is on the return trip to me. I sent a family heirloom, 98% Gold Cup for some work and received honest, sage counsel (that I listened to) on what it needed to be tweaked for next generations. It was far less work than I had planned on.

Herein, AC & WCR and others gave their best, wizened counsel. They essentially heard back “Thanks, but If I try something and it doesn’t work out, I can always send it to Wilson. They will fix it. They've done this many times.” Wilson is viewed as a safety net. How many companies have policies that allow that luxury?

I don’t know how Wilson runs triage on their repair/custom work. If me, I’d use the following order:

-new Wilson guns, long and anxiously awaited, with warranty issues.

-older Wilson guns with warranty issues

-customer supplied guns

-guns where someone else did work and there is a resulting problem.
Furthermore, above categories that come in later will supersede in line. “We’ll get to it when we can.”

I’m not qualified to opine but merely suggest that the last category almost always takes longer than if just originally sent in. If that is true, it delays the process for others’ work and craftsmen time is Wilson’s limited commodity.

If there were no safety net, would the inclination to try something outside of a comfort zone be so strong?
 
#31 ·
WCCPA,

I must ask....are you a troll? LOL Since I see you only have 22 posts, here is the definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troll_(Internet)

That being said, you stated that by Wilson completing/repairing work initially performed by others it delays other actions. I would think that is somewhat obvious; however, if Wilson did not care to complete/repair work, then they would not offer that service. I would not be forcing them to removing bushings if needed. This is a service they're providing and not free of charge...mind you.

Secondly, would I be inclined to take a little bit of risk if there wasn't available support? Probably not.

However, what does your questions have to do with removing staked bushings? If you would like to continue this dialogue with others that are interested, start a new thread and post the link here...
 
#33 · (Edited)
Never mind, not worth it. Will continue to read and not post :)
 
#35 ·
A small matter, really, but I suppose you have to keep in mind that guys who have been around these guns for a while have seen an almost staggering amount of well-intentioned stupidity. My only objective is to save a few folks from themselves when and where I can.

Even something as simple as changing out a pair of standard grips (on a standard frame using the standard/existing bushings) can involve a number of inherent/associated tasks that are easily overlooked. They may need to be trued to the frame, relieved for a thumb safety, reinforced with a #60 o-ring, etc. and the odds are good that you are still going to end up marring a grip screw slot before you're finished. Easiest job ever? Meh.

Ask the folks at the shop how many times they've had to field calls from guys that just put DYMO tape stickers on all of their mags to mark them with their names, but who now can't figure out why none of them will fully-seat or drop-free from the gun any longer. I'm telling you ... it happens. Being a Wilson owner doesn't mean that you're any smarter than the guy trying to hand-checker his RIA; it simply means that your mistakes will be far more costly.

I'd send the gun to Wilson's, not just to get the bushing job done right, but because I know that the guys will go through the rest of the gun while it is sitting on the bench. When they do, if they spot something that might benefit from a quick touch, tweak or adjustment along the way, I know that an expert hand will attend to it. Just because they can. Like a quick tune-up.

Just had that very thing done, actually. Gun went in for a quick refinish, and came back with a few other significant touches that brought things nicely up-to-date. Didn't ask for anything. Didn't prolong my wait. Didn't result in a new invoice. Just a surprised and delighted customer.

Let the boys help you out ...

... and then hope against hope that you actually like the slim grips, and that you didn't just go though all of this in order to end up with a configuration that you don't much care for, after all.

Or, just do it yourself ...

... but then please have the good sense to take your follow-on concerns and questions to the gunsmithing area of the site, rather than the Wilson board.

AC
 
#37 ·
AC (and others here) have given excellent advise based on experience and sound logic. All you can do is give it, and I thank you for being willing to do so. We all learn from it, even if we are just spectators to what is being discussed. Each of us must ultimately make our own choices and accept the consequences of our decisions and our resulting actions. I think every man oughta do what he wants to do. Certainly we can all feel good that valuable advice and information has been presented here and that those who have heard it can make an informed decision. That's the best that can be done!! Thank you ...
 
#45 ·
I've staked my grip bushings before, they've always come off when I use the Brownell's bushing tool without a fight.

I usually have the other problem, I can't get grip bushings to stay even if I stake them--usually in the left upper side of the grip. It's uncanny.

But on a more serious note, a 1911 with stripped frame is a sad thing to see.
 
#53 ·
I'm just glad the inside of that dishwasher isn't stainless steel or the thread would have turned into a discussion about whether it was brushed or blasted and how it affects the cleaning. :D:D

Edit: Leaves the door open for the AT comment...
 
#54 ·
The grip bushings on my Wilson were not staked... as a matter of fact, they were thread-locked to the grip screws and it threw me for a loop the first time I removed the grips. When I decided to change grips, I had to hold the bushings with plyers and carefully break the thread-lock loose. Now, my bushings are thread-locked to the frame, not to the grip screws.
 
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