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  #26  
Old 09-08-2012, 03:12 PM
river side river side is offline
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I haven't seen it said here yet but I use a product that works great. It is called (strangely enough) Old West Snake Oil. It advertises no chemical properties and is extremely easy to use. Actually the easiest way to apply is with a pair of cotton jersey gloves. Can be applied to all metals and wood and leaves a very pleasing look that last a very long time. As long as the guns are stored properly I believe one application a year would be fine. I have tried CLP Collector but found it to thick and difficult to use. With the Snake Oil I just keep some saturated cotton gloves in a zip lock and wipe off after handling.
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  #27  
Old 09-08-2012, 08:39 PM
george05 george05 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by river side View Post
I haven't seen it said here yet but I use a product that works great. It is called (strangely enough) Old West Snake Oil. It advertises no chemical properties and is extremely easy to use. Actually the easiest way to apply is with a pair of cotton jersey gloves. Can be applied to all metals and wood and leaves a very pleasing look that last a very long time. As long as the guns are stored properly I believe one application a year would be fine. I have tried CLP Collector but found it to thick and difficult to use. With the Snake Oil I just keep some saturated cotton gloves in a zip lock and wipe off after handling.
do you use this snake oil on just blued finish or can it also be used on parkerized finish? you also use it on grips, wood and plastic?
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  #28  
Old 09-08-2012, 11:38 PM
river side river side is offline
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I have used it on parkerized, blued, wood and the plastic grips. I originally tested it on just a few guns and let them sit for a few months. I know that is not real long but I seen no ill effects so I applied to more. It actually has been well over a year and they still look great with no residue or ill effects. I like what it does to wood better than any other product I've tried. Gun oils just never seemed like a good idea on wood. Especially the military stocks that can really soak it up. I know cosmoline has been used for years but of course changes the color and I don't want to do that. An old collector turned me on to the Snake Oil and people that have seen my guns ask me what I use. I hate to tell them how easy it is because it looks like I spent alot of time.
The only place I have found it is on the internet. I bought 3 eight oz. bottles which will last a long, long time. I did get an email from them sometime in the past that they had changed the formula. I don't know why because I thought it was fine as is. If it wasn't for the old collector using it for years I probably would not have tried it. After all, it is called Snake Oil and can only be bought from the internet.
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  #29  
Old 10-05-2012, 01:24 PM
GeneralPatton GeneralPatton is offline
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I had to store my old Colt .357 for 6 years, and the suggestion I was given and put into practice was to clean it then just wrap it in wax paper for storage. I just took it out from storage last week, and it looked just as perfect as it did when I placed it away, and fired with perfection without being touched that same day. Worked for me
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  #30  
Old 10-05-2012, 02:13 PM
chrisf8657 chrisf8657 is offline
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I've been storing my guns slathered in Break-Free CLP for years, but recently switched to M-pro 7 LPX, and find it stays wet and doesn't dry out like Break-Free. It also exceeds the latest milspec revision. Also has a much higher boiling point than CLP so it'll work great as a lube that sticks around when the gun heats up...

For super long term I still think covered in cosmoline and gun paper can't be beat.
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Last edited by chrisf8657; 10-05-2012 at 02:15 PM.
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  #31  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:43 AM
surplusshooter surplusshooter is offline
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A product called 'Ballistol" is one of the, if not THE best product on the market today for protecting firearms from rust and corrosion, plus, unlike conventional oils it's good for the wood too.
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  #32  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:33 PM
ugotdale ugotdale is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surplusshooter View Post
A product called 'Ballistol" is one of the, if not THE best product on the market today for protecting firearms from rust and corrosion, plus, unlike conventional oils it's good for the wood too.
Do not use ballistol if your firearm has any brass on it, it will tarnish [found out the hard way.
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  #33  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:50 PM
Mustang Mustang is offline
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I've been meaning to add a couple of links this thread for those who are interested. First is the link to the National Firearms Museum suggestions for firearms care. The second is the suggestions of the National Park Service for metal care collections.

Hopefully these will be of interest to the collectors and long term storage aficionados.

Last edited by Mustang; 05-02-2013 at 10:06 PM.
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  #34  
Old 05-12-2013, 06:41 PM
mitch1414 mitch1414 is offline
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I stored a Colt 38 special for 10 year's in tropical weather. How I did it?
got 2 tubs of Vaseline and ammo can. filled the can with Vaseline the dunk to pistol. When I got back the Vaseline was hard but no rust.
Keep the air out. I treat my old cars with used motor oil. Works.
Mitch
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  #35  
Old 05-12-2013, 07:16 PM
CIB CIB is offline
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Where does one find VPI paper that Johnny Peppers mentions early in this thread. A search on Brownell's turned up nothing.

Never mind. I found it, but they don't call it VPI any more.
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Last edited by CIB; 05-12-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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  #36  
Old 05-12-2013, 10:48 PM
gfguns gfguns is offline
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I also store in cardboard boxes I buy from Roberts Arms and line each box with Vapor paper. I also apply a light coat of Clenzoil after each handling. My safes are not air tight and I don't use the electric dehumidifiers but each safe has at least one desiccant type moisture absorbing device that needs to be recharged periodically. I have always wanted to try using gloves when handling the guns but I would have to do some research to insure I am using the correct type. Bottom line, it has been ten plus years and so far so good.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers View Post
As mentioned by Dana, I use the cardboard storage boxes with a sheet of Brownells VPI paper. I also use a light rust preventive gun oil, giving the pistol a light coat, and have never had a trouble with rust. I live where the temperature and the humidity can be 99. Even though I use a gunsafe with a high fire rating, I feel the cardboard boxes offers a measure of extra fire protection.
The gun oil I am using now is M-Pro 7. It is suppose to be the latest thing out in gun protection and lubrication, but the thing that sold me most was the lack of odor.


Last edited by gfguns; 05-12-2013 at 10:51 PM.
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  #37  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:36 AM
Chiton guy Chiton guy is offline
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In the 1970s, I worked in the Chicago Police Crime Lab as a clerk. They store all of their important handguns on wooden dowel rods in the open air. I have seen some vendors who sell plastic or plastic lined rods for this purpose.
I'm debating whether to buy one of these or try to whip something similar up in the garage.
Most of my pistols are shooters but I do have a handful or collector types.
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  #38  
Old 08-25-2013, 09:44 PM
dogboysdad dogboysdad is offline
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I live in a high-humidity area. I have used a product called Eezox for firearms storage. Once you get used to the smell, you will love it. I shake it well and apply it to a clean firearm with a dark colored rag. I wear nitrile gloves - more to protect me from the product than to protect the guns from me.
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  #39  
Old 09-27-2013, 09:25 PM
bradsvette bradsvette is online now
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I don't do any of that stuff. After I handle a gun I'll wipe off the fingerprints with an old cloth that sits on top of my gun safe, and that's it. I live in a humid climate, but I don't have any rust on my guns. I do pull them out of the safe fairly often and shoot a number of them. I'll then clean and oil the ones that I shot, but I do very little preventative maintenance, and they all look fine and are rust free.
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  #40  
Old 09-29-2013, 04:41 PM
HOTCHKIS HOTCHKIS is offline
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I'm on the Gulf coast with the humidity and I use 2 large dehumidifier rods in my safe and when I open the door I feel the heat that is built up in there.I have that little humidity gauge and it always at 20-25%.
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  #41  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:33 PM
Tom_R Tom_R is offline
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I am surprised no one mentioned it, but after cleaning and getting your gun dry, a coat of Renaissance Wax works wonders. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC uses it on their Armor and Firearms Collection.

Here, is my nickel 27-2 polished and covered in a thin coat of Renaissance:

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  #42  
Old 03-11-2015, 11:17 AM
coltfortyfive coltfortyfive is offline
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I've always stored my guns perfectly clean and dry. I use BALLISTOL and and a bit of FIN SUPER OIL with Teflon. From time to time I get them out of the safe and wipe them all with a silicon cloth.
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  #43  
Old 07-07-2015, 09:38 AM
Redneck Jim Redneck Jim is offline
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My 1938 M1911A1 that was carried by my father-in-law in WWII is off being restored, as he had chromed it at some point. It is all original, except for the grips which will be corrected with the restoration. When it comes back, I wish to store this gun properly and since all my other weapons are shooters, I am new to protecting a collectable. My ARs are all in locked wall racks & my Sigs are in individual pistol safes. I don't have a large fireproof gun locker.

I am very inexperienced with 1911s so here is my plan. Let me know if I do something stupid. First I plan to clean it completely & use Break Free CO Collector long term storage protector. I pray I don't make an idiot scratch while assembling. I then will place it in the Bore Stores silicone treated P-3 large frame auto 10" pouch. Then I plan on putting this in a Sentrysafe fireproof media safe designed to protect digital media from high temp & water. I will include some silica gel desiccant packs.

This sound reasonable?

Last edited by Redneck Jim; 07-07-2015 at 10:44 AM.
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  #44  
Old 10-28-2015, 09:12 AM
The Virginian The Virginian is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette View Post
First clean the firearm thoroughly. Use any proven safe method but I remove grips, especially if wood. Hot water with dish washing detergent is good for cleaning IMO, and important if any corrosive ammo has been fired in it. Lots of hot water rinse. Get it good and dry and as fast as possible. Hair dryer is a good idea. Use WD-40 to displace any moisture if any doubt exists then wipe off the majority of the WD-40 with a lint free cloth. This is probably a good idea even if no moisture exists as it will get lube everywhere. Then apply RIG/Rust Inhibiting Grease to all metal surfaces. Store in a humidity and moisture controlled environment. You should be good for a long time, probably years. Do not: store in holsters, laying on any absorbant material, in gun cases, etc. This is how I do it but other methods are likely fine as well. Eezox has excellent rust inhibiting properties, but follow the instructions and avoid contacting the listed surfaces if you use it vs RIG. Other preservatives may work fine but few will come close to the duration of RIG or Eezox.
This is basically what I do with any firearm that is from the corrosive primer era, it gets washed with hot water and dawn liquid soap, rinsed then the gun is slightly heated with a hairdryer, rinsed in acetone, with a bath in water displacing oil before it is gone over and cleaned then coated with CorrosionX HD which is like RIG. I was amazed at what I found in my last strip down of a 1911 from 1916. It had corrosive salts thankfully suspended in Sperm Whale oil and it was so old it smelled like cod liver oil.....whew! It was smelly! I also clean the wood grips with Murphy's Oil Soap and wipe down with a terrytowel to get rid of the dirt and grime. I lightly apply some boiled linseed oil to the wood grips before putting them back on.
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  #45  
Old 01-09-2017, 06:05 PM
KeithNyst KeithNyst is offline
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Has anyone ever tried a product call "fluid-film" on their pistols? My nephew had a small can of this weekend. They use it at his work for lub/corrosion prevention. Just currious ... I'm going to order a can to lightly coat my reloading dies and battery terminals. Thought I might try it on a couple of shooter rifles first. I found this test on steel wool Eezox vs. Fluid Film; found it interesting: http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/in...=6291.msg54609

Last edited by KeithNyst; 01-09-2017 at 06:53 PM.
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  #46  
Old 01-21-2017, 08:15 AM
crasig crasig is offline
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Originally Posted by cololab View Post
Years ago (longer than I now care to remember) I acquired a can of RIG/Rust Inhibiting Grease that has served me very well for long term storage preservation.
I inherited a can & tubes of RIG from my father, who was a big believer in applying it before storing his shooters & collectables in his gun cabinet. I have been using his supply for years, & still have some.
In the past few years, after seeing the scientific studies on full Synthetic Motor Oil's superior lubrication & wear protection, I have begun using synthetic (15/50 Mobil 1) on all of my firearms. Synthetic oil has a tendency to migrate on its own, & I smear any extra residue over the blued or matte finishes, which seems to protect as well as RIG ever did - without being as messy. I do have a vintage revolver in long term storage, with RIG - inside a plastic bag before putting it away in its leather holster, it is keeping well.
I recently acquired 2 black nylon Russian Spetsnaz holsters, & have had no problems storing my Steyr GB, & CZ52 in them with synthetic oil rubdown. I did also lightly spray their interiors with silicone, + the interior of my Chinese Pleather Tokarev Holster. These non-leather holsters have no ill effects from the tannic acids found in Leather.
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  #47  
Old 01-21-2017, 05:23 PM
Autonomous Autonomous is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithNyst View Post
Has anyone ever tried a product call "fluid-film" on their pistols? My nephew had a small can of this weekend. They use it at his work for lub/corrosion prevention. Just currious ... I'm going to order a can to lightly coat my reloading dies and battery terminals. Thought I might try it on a couple of shooter rifles first. I found this test on steel wool Eezox vs. Fluid Film; found it interesting: http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/in...=6291.msg54609
Quite a few salt water boaters like Fluid Film. IIRC it a lanolin based formula.
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  #48  
Old 01-21-2017, 09:56 PM
USMM guy USMM guy is online now
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I have been using three in one oil for years.

Even when I lived in New Orleans it worked well. It would be good for about six months. Now that I live in VA and keep my guns in a low humidity environment it works for even longer periods of time.
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  #49  
Old 11-08-2017, 06:30 PM
crasig crasig is offline
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I saw WD-40 mentioned here. Can't say how bad I detest the stuff. Before I knew better - I sprayed the bright metal parts of my table saw & drill press, that I kept in my basement. The WD-40 turned into even more evil smelling yellow goo, + a bit of surface rust - that was truly horrible to remove, & did more harm than good.
So this rant is my civic duty - PLENTY OF OTHER GOOD THINGS TO USE ON GUNS !
I now keep spray silicone on the RESTORED bright metal surfaces of my power tools.
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  #50  
Old 11-14-2017, 09:38 PM
Retired AF CE Retired AF CE is offline
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http://www.corrosionx.com/

Enough said!
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