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  #51  
Old 11-27-2013, 02:56 PM
MikeFL86 MikeFL86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom2 View Post
Is there any way you can measure the breech to extractor of both the Sig and EGW extractor installed on the gun? A before and after. Gauge pins work well.
My slide has the EGW extractor installed.
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  #52  
Old 11-27-2013, 05:13 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeFL86 View Post
My slide has the EGW extractor installed.
Do you have a gauge pin set or feeler gauges that go that high? I understand they are not common tools to have but I figured I would ask.

Did you replace the extractor to fix an issue or was it just preventative?
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  #53  
Old 11-27-2013, 06:17 PM
MikeFL86 MikeFL86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom2 View Post
Do you have a gauge pin set or feeler gauges that go that high? I understand they are not common tools to have but I figured I would ask.

Did you replace the extractor to fix an issue or was it just preventative?
I don't have those tools. And I replaced the extractor to fix a brass to the face issue and to try to get it to pass the 1911 extractor test. It did. I fired 14 rounds through it without a magazine inserted and each was extracted just fine.

Before that the empties would fall out through the magwell.
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  #54  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:25 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Mike, I'm so dumb. I completely forgot that you were the one sending me your slide. I will measure it when it arrives.
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  #55  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:37 PM
jlpskydive jlpskydive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom2 View Post
Is there any way you can measure the breech to extractor of both the Sig and EGW extractor installed on the gun? A before and after. Gauge pins work well.
I do, but I'm recovering from surgery and it will be a week or so before I can do it. I have feeler gauges that I can stack.
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  #56  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:40 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpskydive View Post
I do, but I'm recovering from surgery and it will be a week or so before I can do it. I have feeler gauges that I can stack.
It's cool. Mike is sending me a slide with an EGW unit installed. Rest up and enjoy your Thanksgiving.

I also wonder if the extractor spring that EGW sell is the same spring rate as OEM or if it is lighter.
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  #57  
Old 11-29-2013, 04:52 PM
jlpskydive jlpskydive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom2 View Post
It's cool. Mike is sending me a slide with an EGW unit installed. Rest up and enjoy your Thanksgiving.

I also wonder if the extractor spring that EGW sell is the same spring rate as OEM or if it is lighter.
Please let me know when you find out. Mine hold the rounds so tight you have to shake the gun to get it to drop on a test.
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  #58  
Old 11-29-2013, 11:31 PM
paranut paranut is offline
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not to be rude,

But what would the work you have done on this experiment cost roughly?
thank you, Pnut
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  #59  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:18 AM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Originally Posted by paranut View Post
But what would the work you have done on this experiment cost roughly?
thank you, Pnut
I have no idea. I guess it would vary depending on where you take it. I would liken it to a reliability package so probably an hour labor plus the cost of ammo for the test fire before and after.

Just to be clear, I didn't want to do this to solicit work for the shop I do do some work for. I just wanted to point out a few things to help you guys get your guns running.
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  #60  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:44 AM
paranut paranut is offline
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I am sure your intentions were pure..

I have just recently been smitten with the 1911 virus, therefore I am going to be an info sponge. This virus hit my bank account and emptied it!!
I traded into a nitron, and would like to have an experienced eye look at it.
Thank you for all of the info and help. I will take mine out and inspect it, where you have found areas of concern. Pnut
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  #61  
Old 11-30-2013, 09:00 AM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paranut View Post
I have just recently been smitten with the 1911 virus, therefore I am going to be an info sponge. This virus hit my bank account and emptied it!!
I traded into a nitron, and would like to have an experienced eye look at it.
Thank you for all of the info and help. I will take mine out and inspect it, where you have found areas of concern. Pnut
Does your gun run right?
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  #62  
Old 11-30-2013, 09:26 AM
paranut paranut is offline
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I don't shoot much,

I don't even remember if I have fired this one yet. I am more a collector,
If I did fire it, it was only a couple mags worth. I read up on the firearms I have traded into to see
if it was a mistake, or a good trade. I always felt that I could not go wrong with a sig.
I do like for them to go bang when I pull the trigger. I tend to wonder why people get rid of nice firearms,
but I do the same when trading. I have pondered the thought of sending them to a good "smith" one at a
time to get a good once over, but do not know of any here, I am in the boonies of S.E. Oklahoma.

Thank you for the interest, and any suggestions you may have, Pnut
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  #63  
Old 12-03-2013, 05:20 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Well, I got my hands on a RCS that was exhibiting similar issues as posted before.

I will post some things I noticed in a little bit.
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  #64  
Old 12-03-2013, 06:17 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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This slide had the same porous surface finish and all the same burs and a rough breechface and J cut. I polished the same surfaces as on the last slide. In the pic you can still see the tool marks from when the breechface was broached. This shouldn't effect function now.



The slide also had a really rough disco track so I polished that as well.



I also polished the extractor hook.



The barrel ramp had the same "throat and polish" job and had the same uneven throat that looked like it was done with a scraper and had horizontal tool marks like it was polished side to side instead of polished in the direction the round travels. I remedied this by polishing it properly. The info I just got said this is how it came when it was new.



This is the after pic.
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Last edited by David Panciotti; 12-03-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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  #65  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:14 PM
MikeFL86 MikeFL86 is offline
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Here's the old extractor:



As I'm sure you all can tell, it is a MIM part.
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  #66  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:45 PM
Arithon Arithon is offline
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The other thing I'm not sure if we discussed is the "series 80 safety plunger lever" issue mine has.

Here's a pic to remind what part I'm talking about:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CDYQ9QEwAQ

When I first got the gun , the lever sat very high on the frame. In fact, it was extremely difficult to get the slide back on as the lever topside was in the way, and I noticed that it was getting worn down from use. I've seen quite a few threads about this issue on Sigs.

When I sent the gun to Sig I asked them to look at that. I'm not an expert and I wasn't sure how it was supposed to sit. When I got the gun back they had replaced it with a new lever that sat below the slide travel. Custom2 has noted that the lever and the safety plunger itself are off.

I wonder how common that issue is with Sigs? Whats the proper height of the lever?
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  #67  
Old 12-05-2013, 06:12 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Some guns will function fine with the regular lever, some need the longer lever. Maybe they should switch to a longer lever for good measure.

The problem occurs when you set the over travel screw. You are suppose to set the screw to a point where the hammer hooks clear the sear and turn it a hair more for a little extra clearance. If you don't get enough lift from the lever at that point, you would use a longer one. You can get more lift by backing out the overtravel screw some more but the proper way is to set the screw to the correct point and use the appropriate lever.

The series 80 system has to be timed correctly and can be tricky to the untrained.
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  #68  
Old 12-05-2013, 06:24 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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I would bet that most of the guns that have the lever sticking out of the frame have had the pretravel tabs on the trigger bow pulled out too far causing the trigger to not be able to go far enough forward. This is just a guess tough.
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  #69  
Old 12-06-2013, 03:40 PM
Arithon Arithon is offline
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So here is the key question Custom2...if I get the safeties working correctly, get the plunger and levers all working together, do you think my gun will be a "trust my life on it" level reliable shooter?

After all these hassles I'll have to somehow get over them and resist the urge to sell it off , and fall in love with it again.
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  #70  
Old 12-06-2013, 07:49 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arithon View Post
So here is the key question Custom2...if I get the safeties working correctly, get the plunger and levers all working together, do you think my gun will be a "trust my life on it" level reliable shooter?

After all these hassles I'll have to somehow get over them and resist the urge to sell it off , and fall in love with it again.
I don't know man. I can't help you with that decision.
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  #71  
Old 12-07-2013, 12:22 AM
KAS300 KAS300 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arithon View Post
So here is the key question Custom2...if I get the safeties working correctly, get the plunger and levers all working together, do you think my gun will be a "trust my life on it" level reliable shooter?

After all these hassles I'll have to somehow get over them and resist the urge to sell it off , and fall in love with it again.
Only way to know it's reliable is take it out and shoot it.
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  #72  
Old 12-07-2013, 07:49 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Originally Posted by KAS300 View Post
Only way to know it's reliable is take it out and shoot it.
Did you read the whole thread? The gun was very problematic and that fear is very hard to shake.
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  #73  
Old 12-14-2013, 02:46 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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Well, I did some more work to Arithon's gun today. I wanted to get rid of the issue where his grip safety blocking arm wasn't long enough to fully stop the hammer from moving. It wasn't over filed like I thought, it just wasn't made long enough.

With the grip safety in its outward position, you should be able to pull the trigger hard and the hammer should not move. His would allow the hammer to move just enough to not be fully seated with the sear.

So I removed the sear and machined .007 from the back of the sear legs so that they were around .085. This allows the trigger to have proper pre travel.


With the trigger depressed I cocked the slide just enough to get the gun in half cock. With the gun in battery, the trigger will now reset and the trigger will only have a little wiggle room when in half cock. As a result of this, the grip safety works as it should now.
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  #74  
Old 12-14-2013, 02:53 PM
David Panciotti David Panciotti is offline
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All he needs to do now is replace the series 80 plunger and replace the lever with a "N" marked Colt lever and his gun will be all set up.
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  #75  
Old 12-14-2013, 03:17 PM
silversport silversport is offline
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that's a nice thing you've done custom2...Merry christmas...

Bill
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