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  #1  
Old 12-01-2019, 11:09 PM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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New to pistol reloading

Hello,

I recently purchased a Springfield Defender 1911 .45acp during black Friday. This is my first pistol, and I have all the necessary stuff to reload. I have Berry's RN 230gr, Titegroup & Titewad, win primers. I'll mostly be using for personal carry and plinking at the range. What other fairly cheap bullets are people using? I see Midway has various brands of semi wad cutter that aren't too bad. Do you adjust your powder load based on the grain of bullet and type? Or do you base it all on powder data loads from say hogdon?

I've loaded tens of thousands of shotgun shells, but pistol is definitely more finesse in comparison. Looking to try out lots of different loads and having fun with the new gun.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2019, 11:17 PM
4110mm 4110mm is online now
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I use 200 gr blue bullets SWC over 5.0 gr W231 w CCI 300 primers. Laser accurate, inexpensive, easy cleanup. Best combo I ever found. Thousands shot w/o any wear to barrel. There have a Black Friday sale, you get a couple of thousand 15% off and free shipping.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2019, 11:29 PM
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RetiredRod RetiredRod is offline
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The least expensive bullets you can buy are cast lead. IMO, a 200 grain lead semi-wadcutter is the best choice for an excellent yet economical bullet. For a little more expense you can get coated bullets which are just as good as lead but a little more costly. No need to go to the expense of plated or jacketed bullets.

Titegroup is an excellent powder for 45acp, as are a handful of others. As a beginning pistol reloader you should get a reloading manual, actually several, and use the loads listed in the book. Start at the min. load shown and work up slowly if desired. Actually, for 45acp with a 200gr LSWC, there's not much need to get the velocity much over 800 fps for great accuracy and acceptable recoil.

There are quite a few commercial bullet casters out there that make good bullets.

Primers are not usually a big issue. Just be aware the some 45acp cases require small pistol primers, but the majority (guessing 98%) use large pistol primers.

In addition to choices for bullets, powder and primers, you'll also need to learn about crimp and OAL (cartridge over-all length). Those two items have a major effect on feeding the round from the mag into the chamber.

Buy a couple of manuals. Read & re-read the sections on pistol reloading. Buy some components and get started. Start with minimum loads shown in the manuals. As questions crop up, and they will, just come back here and ask.
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2019, 01:33 AM
CowboyShooter CowboyShooter is offline
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I like to try different cast bullets , and Brazos sells sample packs at a great price, allowing one to do so ,instead of having to buy large qtys. . I stopped using 'starter loads' because they very seldom shoot or cycle well, instead I start in the middle, and then adjust up or down to 'fine tune.
crimp.. I taper crimp about .003, then press check with hard thumb pressure, the bullet should stay put.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2019, 02:42 AM
DWARREN123 DWARREN123 is offline
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Check out www.Gallantbullets.com for coated bullets
Use the load data from the bullet or powder manufacturer web site.
Always start lower than max and work up the load as you want.
The info for a load is based on certain bullets-brass=powder-primer so go slow and be careful.
I have used Titegroup for 45 acp and like it but it's range from min to max is short so make sure you powder charge is consistent.
Have fun and be careful!
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2019, 03:06 AM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyShooter View Post
I like to try different cast bullets , and Brazos sells sample packs at a great price, allowing one to do so ,instead of having to buy large qtys. . I stopped using 'starter loads' because they very seldom shoot or cycle well, instead I start in the middle, and then adjust up or down to 'fine tune.
crimp.. I taper crimp about .003, then press check with hard thumb pressure, the bullet should stay put.
I was looking at Brazos, their prices are great, my only question, do I need to add lube or do they come with it?
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2019, 03:10 AM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredRod View Post
The least expensive bullets you can buy are cast lead. IMO, a 200 grain lead semi-wadcutter is the best choice for an excellent yet economical bullet. For a little more expense you can get coated bullets which are just as good as lead but a little more costly. No need to go to the expense of plated or jacketed bullets.

Titegroup is an excellent powder for 45acp, as are a handful of others. As a beginning pistol reloader you should get a reloading manual, actually several, and use the loads listed in the book. Start at the min. load shown and work up slowly if desired. Actually, for 45acp with a 200gr LSWC, there's not much need to get the velocity much over 800 fps for great accuracy and acceptable recoil.

There are quite a few commercial bullet casters out there that make good bullets.

Primers are not usually a big issue. Just be aware the some 45acp cases require small pistol primers, but the majority (guessing 98%) use large pistol primers.

In addition to choices for bullets, powder and primers, you'll also need to learn about crimp and OAL (cartridge over-all length). Those two items have a major effect on feeding the round from the mag into the chamber.

Buy a couple of manuals. Read & re-read the sections on pistol reloading. Buy some components and get started. Start with minimum loads shown in the manuals. As questions crop up, and they will, just come back here and ask.
Appreciate all the info! Definitely going to pick up the hogdon magazine for 2019 and read through there load data tables. I heard the Lyman editions are also very good, might snag one of those as well.

I actually have an the components, just waiting for the gun. In Washington they passed this law where you have to wait 10 days for background check from the Fed before you can take home any pistol and if you want an AR, you have to have a class certificate on top of the waiting period...
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2019, 03:13 AM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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Has anyone ever used Titewad powder? I have 8# from my shotgun reloading and hogdon actually has data tables for .45 acp, hoping to get some feedback as to if it's worth it or not to use and results. Not sure how clean it burns and if you can get decent fps.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2019, 06:09 AM
Oldfut808 Oldfut808 is offline
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Titewad, lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slattin View Post
Has anyone ever used Titewad powder? I have 8# from my shotgun reloading and hogdon actually has data tables for .45 acp, hoping to get some feedback as to if it's worth it or not to use and results. Not sure how clean it burns and if you can get decent fps.
....
The hogdon website shows titewad to be a super fast powder.
I've never used it and judging by the miniscule charge weights, probably never will.
Not with a 230 gr bullet anyway.

It does look interesting for use with a 185 or 200 gr swc though.
It might make a great paper punching load.
True to it's name, it would be extremely economical.
Since you have so much of it, I would experiment with a 200 gr swc.
I would try about 3.8 gr. Give or take a few tenths.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2019, 07:08 AM
RKRCPA RKRCPA is offline
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Redding has a comprehensive guide to the handloading process that you may find helpful.

Click on the "Download Basic Handloading Guide" link.

https://www.redding-reloading.com/handloading-links
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2019, 11:57 AM
mikld mikld is offline
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oops...
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Last edited by mikld; 12-02-2019 at 12:04 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2019, 12:02 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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I have had very good luck with RMR for FMJ bullets and Berry's for plated bullets. Good price, excellent customer service, good product.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2019, 12:03 PM
mikld mikld is offline
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When I'm talking to a new reloader, or one starting on a new cartridge, I suggest they find a "classic" tried and true load straight out of their manual(s). There's a bit more to reloading a pistol cartridge than deciding which load for already purchased bullets. I'd suggest some 230 gr, FMJ over starting loads of Bullseye (but you already have Titegroup so maybe use that). When starting a cartridge, there is no need for premium bullets, but I don't suggest "cheaping out" for starters, besides 230 FMJ aren't all that expensive and if you want to go cheaper after you have the reloading down, then so so.

RMR has some 230 gr, FMJ for $27 per 100 which isn't too bad, I'd try a box of these, concentrate on getting good shootable ammo now, and worry about pennies later. I have used several hundred if these in my HP 45 ACP carbine, my RIA 1911, and my Ruger P90 and they work well...

My Rule #1; I pay no attention to any load data I see on any forum or pet loads website, or hear from any range rat, gun counter clerk or gun
shop guru. I get my load data from published reloading manuals (with occasionally some info from powder distributors web sites...
https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bull...e-bullets-new/
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Last edited by mikld; 12-02-2019 at 12:06 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2019, 01:27 PM
Andyk Andyk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWARREN123 View Post
Check out www.Gallantbullets.com for coated bullets
Use the load data from the bullet or powder manufacturer web site.
Always start lower than max and work up the load as you want.
The info for a load is based on certain bullets-brass=powder-primer so go slow and be careful.
I have used Titegroup for 45 acp and like it but it's range from min to max is short so make sure you powder charge is consistent.
Have fun and be careful!
Second Gallant bullets. Best prices, free shipping if you buy 1k of more. Veteran owned and they support the shooting sports.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2019, 01:31 PM
Andyk Andyk is offline
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Be careful with TG. Very easy to double charge and have a Kaboom. I never recommend TG to new reloaders. To easy to make mistakes with such small charges
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2019, 04:56 PM
jjfitch jjfitch is offline
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Amazon has several books directed at the beginning pistol reloader. There are helpful sections on case preparation and bullet, powder and primer selection.

You didn't mention the press you will be using or the powder measure. Some of these require more "finesse" than the actual reloading process.

Smiles,
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Last edited by jjfitch; 12-02-2019 at 10:40 PM. Reason: syntax
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2019, 05:50 PM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjfitch View Post
Amazon has several books directed at the beginning pistol reloader. There are helpful sections or case preparation and bullet, powder and primer selection.

You didn't mention the press you will be using or the powder measure. Some of these require more "finesse" than the actual reloading process.

Smiles,
I'm using a rcbs single stage rock chucker and I have a rcbs flow 2 powder dispenser. I'll definitely be weighing every 5th or so bullet on my digital scale to make sure I'm within tolerance. Not sure if I'll get a trickle dispenser yet. Is it necessary to weigh every charge???
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2019, 06:02 PM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyk View Post
Be careful with TG. Very easy to double charge and have a Kaboom. I never recommend TG to new reloaders. To easy to make mistakes with such small charges
I'm not sure which is the lesser of two evils having both TG and TW, but I'll definitely inspect all my shells powder levels in the case before seating the bullet...
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2019, 07:11 PM
Oldbrass33 Oldbrass33 is offline
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I have all three bbl lengths of 45s, good name brands. The 3 1/2” bbl will NOT run swc or t/c or rnfp bullets. The feed ramp is too steep and the slide cycle is very fast. However, with the “ John Taffin” load of a 200 gr plated rn (Berry’s, Bulletworks, etc) over 5.0 gr WW231 driven with a WW primer it’s a great gun, runs 100%, comfortable to shoot, and about an 85-90% load, and VERY accurate.
I would not carry reloads for EDC, maybe just me, but I want to do whatever I can to guarantee results if I need to use it. I also want the best bullet performance money can buy, and that isn’t a plated rn.
Lately, since I run 150-200 rounds a week, I have been using Falcon coated bullets (plastic coated) for range practice, great bullets, great prices, and great customer service.
Results with these are very good, but the only rn is 230gr, not a big deal, but you’d have to back that 5.0 gr off a bit I think.
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2019, 09:45 PM
GySgt 7291 GySgt 7291 is offline
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SNS makes great lubed and coated bullets, I use 200gr SWC in both with 4.0gr Bullseye COL 1.235-24
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  #21  
Old 12-02-2019, 10:57 PM
jjfitch jjfitch is offline
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Reloading is an art!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slattin View Post
I'm using a rcbs single stage rock chucker and I have a rcbs flow 2 powder dispenser. I'll definitely be weighing every 5th or so bullet on my digital scale to make sure I'm within tolerance. Not sure if I'll get a trickle dispenser yet. Is it necessary to weigh every charge???
It isn't necessary to weigh every powder drop or use a powder trickler. Unless you are reloading for precision pistol at 50 yards. +/- .2 grains will have very little affect on pistol accuracy. However, it is necessary to look into every case as you charge each case before inserting the bullet. As previously mentioned it is difficult to discern a double charge below 5 grains of faster powders.

Smiles,
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2019, 03:13 AM
Slattin Slattin is offline
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So I noticed some of these bullet casting companies have hitek coating. Do you have to lube those with the coating? Some even have hitek coating with a lube ridge. Do you lube then regardless if they are hitek coated? I was mainly looking at SNS and Brazzos 200gr SWC.
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  #23  
Old 12-03-2019, 04:23 AM
DWARREN123 DWARREN123 is offline
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If it is coated you do not lube, no matter if there is a lube groove.
The coating is the lube.
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2019, 06:53 AM
GySgt 7291 GySgt 7291 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slattin View Post
So I noticed some of these bullet casting companies have hitek coating. Do you have to lube those with the coating? Some even have hitek coating with a lube ridge. Do you lube then regardless if they are hitek coated? I was mainly looking at SNS and Brazzos 200gr SWC.
SNS has a no groove coated 200gr. Nice people, family owned, give them a call they’re happy to answer any questions you may have.
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Last edited by GySgt 7291; 12-03-2019 at 06:56 AM.
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2019, 07:55 AM
Oldbrass33 Oldbrass33 is offline
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Powder charges.....how often you weigh charges depends on your reloading sequence. If you charge multiple cases at a time before seating bullets, you need to visual each case after charging a tray or block full, and weigh any that look different. If you drop the charge into the case and immediately seat the bullet, every 5th or 10th is fine. I started seating immediately after charging way back when and other than rechecking the powder measure have never had a problem.
One powder at a time!! I only allow one powder on the bench at a time and put drafting tape on the measure with #of grains I’m trying to load and powder type. Empty the measure after each session so you don’t “assume “ what’s in the hopper!
With an RCBS single stage my sequence is: resize all cases, then flare them all, then prime them all, then set powder measure for desired charge, then dump powder charge, move case into press, place bullet, and seat. I put them in a plastic dish, if I’m using a factory crimp die, I run them all through that and box them at the same time. Label the box and record in a log, I use the date of loading to identify which box and which log entry match so I can go back if there’s a problem.
Be safe!
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