Series 80 to 70 converrsion

[jonh1373]

In doing an 80 to 70 conversion there are two parts in the frame and one (plus it's spring) in the slide that get removed. I have read that most of the friction and mushy feeling comes from the plunger in the slide. The question is, can you just remove the plunger from the slide without removing the parts in the frame? It seems the parts in the frame would not cause much if any friction and not affect the trigger pull. It would certainly be an easier conversion and easier to put back to factory should one choose to.

[n3wwn]

Do not remove *only* the parts in the slide! The parts in the frame can get caught in the voids left by the slide parts, locking up the pistol pretty good (and quite possibly damaging the series 80 parts in the frame).

Spend the couple of bucks and get the shim to replace the series 80 parts in the frame, too.

Keep in mind that this would make the pistol no longer legal for IDPA as you cannot defeat any factory safeties. Still legal in USPSA, though. Not sure if you shoot either, but thought I'd add that info anyway .

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[yeti]

I vote one or the other.
Either remove the FPS parts to polish/tune/reinstall or fully remove & fit a TJ's shim.
It IS possible to get a decent trigger pull weight & quality with the FPS parts installed. My preference is to usually go with a TJ's & do a full trigger job to get the best pull possible.

If you want to keep the safety feature?
Do a really good job tuning you can still get a quite acceptable result using the S80 FPS parts.

I'm not going to bother relitigating the FPS arguments pro & con, everyone can decide for themselves.

[imjb1911]

I got one of those shims to replace the lever in my Remington R1 and removed the plunger and spring in the slide. I didn't notice any difference in the trigger pull so I put it back to stock. Just my experience.

[Jim Watson]

I shoot IDPA and when they started looking for lawyer levers, I had to put mine back in.
Gunsmithing was required because I had a S70 beavertail fitted when the shim went in.
I can't tell a difference in the trigger pull.

[toocool45]

The series 80 parts are not that big of a deal breaker. In the early days trigger pull with a series 80 gun was bad. Now the parts are made more uniform. The series 80 trigger pull does get better with shooting it. If the trigger pull is still poor after break in. Cylinder and slide freemont nebraska makes a kit that lightens pull about a pound. And it doesnot defeat the safety device of the series 80 trigger. Thats the way i would go with the series 80 guns. And not defeat it. If you ever were involved in a shooting after removing or defeating a series 80 trigger lawyers would have a field day with it. Just my two cents.

[gumbee]

Originally Posted by toocool45

The series 80 parts are not that big of a deal breaker. In the early days trigger pull with a series 80 gun was bad. Now the parts are made more uniform. The series 80 trigger pull does get better with shooting it. If the trigger pull is still poor after break in. Cylinder and slide freemont nebraska makes a kit that lightens pull about a pound. And it doesnot defeat the safety device of the series 80 trigger. Thats the way i would go with the series 80 guns. And not defeat it. If you ever were involved in a shooting after removing or defeating a series 80 trigger lawyers would have a field day with it. Just my two cents.

I agree with everything you said, especially about the lawyers. I spent 30 years as a bailiff so, I've witnessed what attorneys will do to you both in criminal and civil court.

[jonh1373]

I did get the shim to replace the frame parts, I just thought I would ask and see if I could I could make it easier by not replacing the frame parts. I think the best way to get the trigger I want is to do a trigger job like I have done with all of my other 1911s. No shortr cuts. I appreciate all of the responses.

[yeti]

Good plan, Jon. Comprehensive effort & be sure to take your time.

[tray burge]

I have both 80 and 70 series firing systems and with a greatly tuned trigger and sear you cannot tell the difference in the two. Just have a good trigger job done instead.

[dakota1911]

Cylinder and Slide used to make all new Series 80 parts. I used those in one 1991 Commander some years ago. Got them through Brownells. They were nicely machined and coated in Titanium nitride? I think. Anyway they were Gold in color.

[Rick McC.]

I’ve put C&S light pull sear springs in a few 1911’s. They usually drop the trigger pull at least a pound with no other work required.