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  #1  
Old 06-25-2020, 10:48 PM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Does this look right?

I bought a RIA midsize from a local gun shop. The owner told me they were Willson Combat distributors, and could get great deals on parts. On thing lead to another, and I ended up having them swap almost all the parts for Wilson Combat. On my fourth attempt to get my gun, I noticed the trigger looked pretty beat up. Does this look right? Thank you.

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  #2  
Old 06-26-2020, 07:49 AM
passx passx is offline
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Imho, that’s a poor trigger fit, I don’t consider it right but it just might work fine for many years, it just looks bad ! Whoever fit it isn’t very good at.
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  #3  
Old 06-26-2020, 07:54 AM
warp2diesel warp2diesel is online now
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Most 1911 4140 alloy and 416R Stainless Steel frames are investment cast and not machined out of a billet resulting in dimensional compromising. A good pistol smith can file and stone out the area where the trigger slides so the trigger does not need to be modified, but it is a lot of work and will cost you money. Looks like they rounded off the corners of the trigger to let it slide freely so it would work.
So, if you want both good looks and reliable function, you will not do it on the cheap.
For me, I would file and stone the trigger tracks and do a better job of rounding off the trigger corners and blacken the round offs, Brownells sells products to blacken aluminum. But that is just me, over all function come first. I buy blems and 80% frames to make the 1911 the way I want.

Last edited by warp2diesel; 06-26-2020 at 07:56 AM.
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  #4  
Old 06-26-2020, 08:17 AM
1saxman 1saxman is offline
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'Looks like they rounded off the corners of the trigger to let it slide freely so it would work'

Sure, but did they have to do it with a wood rasp? Looks like hell - I wouldn't accept it. They could easily have done that more carefully and blackened it with a gun product.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2020, 09:55 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Thank you. I didn't think so either. The owner of the shop told me he outsourced my gun to a "1911 specialist", but I find it hard to believe considering the quality of work and the fact that his in house gunsmith told me they weren't sending it out to specialists, rather another gunsmith with a larger shop. The work speaks for itself.

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Last edited by the1realmojo; 06-26-2020 at 10:26 AM.
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  #6  
Old 06-26-2020, 10:12 AM
havanajim havanajim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1saxman View Post
..........

Sure, but did they have to do it with a wood rasp? Looks like hell - I wouldn't accept it. They could easily have done that more carefully and blackened it with a gun product.
But that assumes that they give a damn about attention to detail and pride of workmanship. I'm seeing less and less of that out there in the wild. Shame really. The truth is, if you want something done right, either do it yourself or be prepared to pay dearly. Otherwise, know that you may not come out of it a satisfied customer on the back-end, unfortunately.
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  #7  
Old 06-26-2020, 10:29 AM
mickeyd mickeyd is offline
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Why do people just change out parts before shooting the gun to see how it feels and check for reliability?
Putting in Wilson parts doesn’t necessarily make it better.
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  #8  
Old 06-26-2020, 10:30 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajim View Post
But that assumes that they give a damn about attention to detail and pride of workmanship. I'm seeing less and less of that out there in the wild. Shame really. The truth is, if you want something done right, either do it yourself or be prepared to pay dearly. Otherwise, know that you may not come out of it a satisfied customer on the back-end, unfortunately.
I agree. This experience has got me setting up a work station. I had to bring my sig back to the same shop 3 times for night sights. The rear sight would keep coming loose. The owner was cool about not charging me for the install, but they weren't installed correctly on the 3rd try, because you can tell the front sight is off, because there are two divets at the front sight, that appear to be there for alignment, are not lined up. Sorry for the run-on sentence. I really appreciate the feedback

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  #9  
Old 06-26-2020, 10:34 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickeyd View Post
Why do people just change out parts before shooting the gun to see how it feels and check for reliability?

Putting in Wilson parts doesn’t necessarily make it better.
I did shoot it stock. It ran fine, just like a GI. The owner of the shop was telling me about how he has a great partnership with Wilson Combat and his gunsmithing network would make this gun run great. I took out numerous times and had constant misfeed issues. Also, the VZ grips, installed by the gunsmith, came loose 3 times. The owner keeps telling my that grip issue is normal for these guns.

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  #10  
Old 06-26-2020, 03:51 PM
RB211 RB211 is offline
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That is one of the worst trigger fitting jobs I have ever seen. Either a wood rasp was used as mentioned above, or someone got too happy with a Dremel. It's up to you, but I would not accept that as a finished product, and would be very skeptical of any further gorillasmithing offered by his network of "1911 Specialists".

I have never used more than 400 grit to fit, 1000 grit to finish on a flat surface to fit a trigger. Unless your trigger hole is unusually small, It doesnt take long to fit one - I just fit one last night in my Colt. Smooth as silk, no play, and it took me about 10 minutes to fit it.

You can cure the screws coming loose with small orings or Loctite (222 or 242 if you cant find 222)
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  #11  
Old 06-26-2020, 03:58 PM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
That is one of the worst trigger fitting jobs I have ever seen. Either a wood rasp was used as mentioned above, or someone got too happy with a Dremel. It's up to you, but I would not accept that as a finished product, and would be very skeptical of any further gorillasmithing offered by his network of "1911 Specialists".

I have never used more than 400 grit to fit, 1000 grit to finish on a flat surface to fit a trigger. Unless your trigger hole is unusually small, It doesnt take long to fit one - I just fit one last night in my Colt. Smooth as silk, no play, and it took me about 10 minutes to fit it.

You can cure the screws coming loose with small orings or Loctite (222 or 242 if you cant find 222)
I almost feel like this was done intentionally, because I called him out on being a flake. Ever since then, he has been very difficult to work with. I told him I wanted a refund on the gun, and he refused. He told me if I don't pick up the gun, he will hold it for 180 days and send it to the local PD. I really don't know what to do.

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  #12  
Old 06-26-2020, 04:11 PM
RB211 RB211 is offline
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Well, depending on the balance of what is owed and what they changed, I would at least try to have him deduct the cost of the trigger since it is quite obviously gorilla fit. I work on 1911's at my friend's shop, and I would never have allowed that off of my bench looking like that.

If you were in my area, I would tell you to bring it by the shop for an inspection, gratis.
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2020, 04:13 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1realmojo View Post
I almost feel like this was done intentionally, because I called him out on being a flake. Ever since then, he has been very difficult to work with. I told him I wanted a refund on the gun, and he refused. He told me if I don't pick up the gun, he will hold it for 180 days and send it to the local PD. I really don't know what to do.

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Even flakes don't like being disrespected, win some lose some. Pick up your 1911 and go forward, with learning and improvements one at a time.

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  #14  
Old 06-26-2020, 04:52 PM
VetPsychWars VetPsychWars is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1realmojo View Post
I took out numerous times and had constant misfeed issues.
You do know the magazine is an integral part of the feeding process? You might have only needed to change the magazine, and perhaps the springs.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2020, 05:42 PM
Oldpistol Oldpistol is online now
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You have a perfect outcome believe it or not. As LOG said, pay for it and take it home. You probably gained a few hundred dollars of education. Education is not cheap. Time to buy the Kuhnhausen books. Most of the time you will be able to fix/modify your 1911. On your own. And have no one to blame but yourself. I am not trying to be hurtful. I have had a variety of educational experiences. Including squeezing the trigger on a 1911 with a full magazine (I didn’t know to load1, then 2, then 3....) and having it go full auto. It had been “gone over” by a “great gunsmith, ex military weapons guy”. As I recall, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat , started after an experience similar to yours. He did alright. And you can too!

The sting will go out of this. Maybe not today though.
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  #16  
Old 06-26-2020, 06:33 PM
RexipusRex RexipusRex is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1realmojo View Post
I almost feel like this was done intentionally, because I called him out on being a flake. Ever since then, he has been very difficult to work with. I told him I wanted a refund on the gun, and he refused. He told me if I don't pick up the gun, he will hold it for 180 days and send it to the local PD. I really don't know what to do.

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Well, that escalated quickly.

Here's what I would do if I were you: pick up the pistol, don't work with that guy anymore. Remove the trigger and roll those edges over some fine sandpaper on a flat surface to make them look less like ****, then color the corners with something so they don't stand out as much. Chalk this up to lessons learned.

If you can't stand looking at this trigger, Get a trigger track stone from Brownells for like $20 and a narrow file and clean up those trigger tracks, then put a new trigger in there yourself. Add to the learning experience even more.

ps: everyone's got their own way of dealing with people. I don't like conflict, so I don't call people flakes; I'll just leave and never do business with them again. I'm willing to take a hit on something like a $30 trigger and save myself way more than $30 worth of aggravation. I've got way more I'd like to do with the time I've got than fight with other people over cheap ****.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2020, 07:23 PM
sawman556 sawman556 is offline
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That's a terrible job. Get a new trigger and fit it yourself. It's not that hard and you'll learn some stuff about your gun.
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2020, 08:33 PM
cavelamb cavelamb is offline
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I'm almost afraid to ask, and you certainly don't have to answer
if you don't want to...

But considering how this guys operated...

How much money do you have in this RIA now?
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2020, 09:17 PM
seagiant seagiant is offline
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Hi,
Not surprised, I now own a lathe, BP Mill and quite an assortment of hand tools and jigs to work/build, my 1911's.

I was "pushed" that way because a nationally known Gunsmith, botched a BHP, Novak sight install!

Maybe time to get some education???
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2020, 09:39 PM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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Concur with the others about learning to do it yourself. If you have a modicum of patience and the ability to learn a few skills then you will be miles ahead. I relearned that lesson a couple years ago with an 870 shotgun barrel that I wanted to have ported. Took it to a nationally known smith who I have used for many years for other type work and his porting job looked like crap. The worst kind of crap. After much thought I just decided to eat it and buy another barrel. I ported it myself in a pattern similar to most you see commonly these days. Took some doing, but it turned out perfect. Holes were evenly spaced and in line as they should be, not all over the map, leaning left and right, etc. I still use that smith for what I had previously used hi to do, refinishing. He will do no more actual smithing for me though.
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  #21  
Old 06-26-2020, 10:53 PM
Rwehavinfunyet Rwehavinfunyet is offline
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1911 and STI 2011 gun builds....

I have never owned or looked at a Jerry Kunehausen manual; I learned how to build my own 1911 guns through common sense and being on different gun Forums, web sites, and spending time with knowledgeable 1911 gunsmiths at their shop and asking questions....two of which were American Pistolsmith Guild members.....
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2020, 12:18 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Thanks for the feedback. I am fairly new to 1911s, other than shooting them, but this looked awful. Interesting, that when I went to test fire it the 3rd time, the trigger worked fine, and didn't have any fitting done. It almost like it was intentionally. I called the owner out for being a flake, and he went silent on me, went on vacation, and told me to go pick up my gun. When I went to pick up, it looked this and they wanted to charge me for test firing ammo. I told the guy I did not want to come back for a 4th time because of the grips coming loose, and I wanted him or his smith to put 100 rounds through it. I really believe this some form of retaliation. I left my gun and told him to refund me and keep it, but he is refusing. Sorry for the long back story.

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  #23  
Old 06-27-2020, 12:22 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
That is one of the worst trigger fitting jobs I have ever seen. Either a wood rasp was used as mentioned above, or someone got too happy with a Dremel. It's up to you, but I would not accept that as a finished product, and would be very skeptical of any further gorillasmithing offered by his network of "1911 Specialists".

I have never used more than 400 grit to fit, 1000 grit to finish on a flat surface to fit a trigger. Unless your trigger hole is unusually small, It doesnt take long to fit one - I just fit one last night in my Colt. Smooth as silk, no play, and it took me about 10 minutes to fit it.

You can cure the screws coming loose with small orings or Loctite (222 or 242 if you cant find 222)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
Well, depending on the balance of what is owed and what they changed, I would at least try to have him deduct the cost of the trigger since it is quite obviously gorilla fit. I work on 1911's at my friend's shop, and I would never have allowed that off of my bench looking like that.

If you were in my area, I would tell you to bring it by the shop for an inspection, gratis.
Thanks, I really appreciate that! I am not sure what I am going to do. I really don't want the gun anymore. This was at least the 3rd time bringing it back for issues. The owner keeps trying to tell me misfeeds, loose grips are acceptable and common issues with these guns. He wouldn't even acknowledge the awful trigger job.

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  #24  
Old 06-27-2020, 12:24 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldpistol View Post
You have a perfect outcome believe it or not. As LOG said, pay for it and take it home. You probably gained a few hundred dollars of education. Education is not cheap. Time to buy the Kuhnhausen books. Most of the time you will be able to fix/modify your 1911. On your own. And have no one to blame but yourself. I am not trying to be hurtful. I have had a variety of educational experiences. Including squeezing the trigger on a 1911 with a full magazine (I didn’t know to load1, then 2, then 3....) and having it go full auto. It had been “gone over” by a “great gunsmith, ex military weapons guy”. As I recall, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat , started after an experience similar to yours. He did alright. And you can too!

The sting will go out of this. Maybe not today though.
Reminds me of Jocko and his "Good" video. Thank you sir.

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  #25  
Old 06-27-2020, 12:25 AM
the1realmojo the1realmojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavelamb View Post
I'm almost afraid to ask, and you certainly don't have to answer
if you don't want to...

But considering how this guys operated...

How much money do you have in this RIA now?
Fair question...a little over $1000

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