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  #1  
Old 11-29-2017, 06:00 PM
Live2Ride Live2Ride is offline
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Whisper Suppressor questions

Has anyone run a .30 cal Whisper suppressor on a 5.56? If so, how did it perform?

I'm tossing around the idea of a suppressor, since I don't have one. I like the idea of getting a .30 cal suppressor, because I could use it on my M1A and my 5.56 AR. I only want to go this route if the 5.56 would still be hearing safe.
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2017, 06:06 PM
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STORM2 STORM2 is offline
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If it will be your first device remember...it’s a suppressor NOT a silencer. None of them work like TV! To answer your question, yes. We have a Wilson and another brand (both 30 cal) running on 556 and 762. I’ve got adapters on 4 ARs but seldom use it, my son uses one all the time.

Last edited by STORM2; 11-29-2017 at 06:29 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2017, 06:11 PM
Live2Ride Live2Ride is offline
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Originally Posted by STORM2 View Post
If it will be your first device remember...its a suppressor NOT a silencer. None of them work like TV! To answer your question, yes. We have a Wilson and another brand (both 30 cal) running on 556 and 762. Ive got adapters on 4 ARs but seldom use it, my son uses his all the time.
LOL Yeah, "silencer" kinda bothers me too. While it would be the first one I've purchased, it wouldn't be the first I've used. Ultimate goal is to get a .30 cal can that is hearing safe with both 5.56 and 7.62.
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  #4  
Old 11-29-2017, 06:34 PM
WilsonCombatRep WilsonCombatRep is offline
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I run a 30 cal can on 308, 6.8, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmoor all the way to 5.56. The RT interface makes it super easy to mount thread adaptors to several guns and move one can around. The 30 cal on the 5.56 can is almost indistinguishable in noise signature/tone from a 5.56 with a 5.56 bore can.
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WilsonCombatRep View Post
I run a 30 cal can on 308, 6.8, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmoor all the way to 5.56. The RT interface makes it super easy to mount thread adaptors to several guns and move one can around. The 30 cal on the 5.56 can is almost indistinguishable in noise signature/tone from a 5.56 with a 5.56 bore can.
Excellent. What kind of decibel reduction can be expected? (I know it depends on a few different factors.) I looked on the website, and didn't see mention of it.
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2017, 07:39 PM
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Just got my tax stamp on my first WC suppressor (already have three others I received this year), and it looks impressive. I haven't been able to get it to the range yet, but am looking forward to it. Mine is 9mm, for my AR9B, but Ryan Wilson told me it is also usable for the new 338 Federal rifle as well...hmmmm... I may have to get a .338 Federal upper for my Rock River AR.
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2017, 07:59 PM
WilsonCombatRep WilsonCombatRep is offline
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Originally Posted by Live2Ride View Post
Excellent. What kind of decibel reduction can be expected? (I know it depends on a few different factors.) I looked on the website, and didn't see mention of it.
Its comparable to other 7" -8.5" suppressors. We don't post decibel specs because almost anything effects sound measuring equipment. Different ammo, guns and locations all meter differently.

My .308 is "hearing safe" with a Whisper attached.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2017, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandpas50AE View Post
Just got my tax stamp on my first WC suppressor (already have three others I received this year), and it looks impressive. I haven't been able to get it to the range yet, but am looking forward to it. Mine is 9mm, for my AR9B, but Ryan Wilson told me it is also usab;e for the new 338 Federal rifle as well...hmmmm... I may have to get a .338 Federal upper for my Rock River AR.
According to the website, it will also work for the .358 Win. Kinda crazy that the same can be used for such a close range weapon and long range weapons also.
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2017, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WilsonCombatRep View Post
Its comparable to other 7" -8.5" suppressors. We don't post decibel specs because almost anything effects sound measuring equipment. Different ammo, guns and locations all meter differently.

My .308 is "hearing safe" with a Whisper attached.
Makes sense. Thanks!
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2017, 09:27 PM
US1911 US1911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Live2Ride View Post
Has anyone run a .30 cal Whisper suppressor on a 5.56? If so, how did it perform? I'm tossing around the idea of a suppressor, since I don't have one. I like the idea of getting a .30 cal suppressor, because I could use it on my M1A and my 5.56 AR. I only want to go this route if the 5.56 would still be hearing safe.
The .30 cal Whisper is one heck of a versatile suppressor.



I use it on 4 different hosts in various calibers.



Just pitch the flash hider and bolt on an appropriate rapid thread muzzle brake, use the provided shim kit to properly index the brake and youre good to go. I use the Wilson blast diverter when shoooting without the suppressor installed - it keeps the spent gasses from rocket propelling up your nose and protects the muzzle brake threads from getting banged up.



5.56


300Blk Nightstand Gun


7.62


30-30


Im most pleased with the .30 cal Whisper on all calibers. It reduces felt recoil and drastically reduces the sound signature.

Obviously, the 5.56 round is just plain loud, especially at an indoor range. I wouldnt say that the .30 cal Whisper makes a SBR 5.56 hearing safe indoors, because Ive never tried it without wearing hearing protection, but Id be surprised if any dedicated 5.56 suppressor would do much better indoors. However, when shooting it unsuppressed then suppressed, the sound is indeed significantly reduced.
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2017, 09:41 PM
remanaz remanaz is offline
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The problem indoors is the sonic crack that a suppressor cannot reduce or eliminate. Outdoors the sonic crack is still audible but it is not reverbing off the walls, ceiling and floor getting amplified in the process. Outdoors my form 1 .30 cal suppressor will keep full auto 5.56 hearing saf3 but I still hear the sonic cracks down range. But being downrange the sound level is reduced quite well.
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2017, 11:02 AM
WilsonCombatRep WilsonCombatRep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1911 View Post
The .30 cal Whisper is one heck of a versatile suppressor.



I use it on 4 different hosts in various calibers.



Just pitch the flash hider and bolt on an appropriate rapid thread muzzle brake, use the provided shim kit to properly index the brake and youre good to go. I use the Wilson blast diverter when shoooting without the suppressor installed - it keeps the spent gasses from rocket propelling up your nose and protects the muzzle brake threads from getting banged up.



5.56


300Blk Nightstand Gun


7.62


30-30


Im most pleased with the .30 cal Whisper on all calibers. It reduces felt recoil and drastically reduces the sound signature.

Obviously, the 5.56 round is just plain loud, especially at an indoor range. I wouldnt say that the .30 cal Whisper makes a SBR 5.56 hearing safe indoors, because Ive never tried it without wearing hearing protection, but Id be surprised if any dedicated 5.56 suppressor would do much better indoors. However, when shooting it unsuppressed then suppressed, the sound is indeed significantly reduced.


You showed it much better than I could explain
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2017, 11:21 AM
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Very helpful! Thanks!
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2017, 12:46 AM
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Results of my testing GRIFFIN OPTIMA SURPRESSOR.

I have been shooting my Griffin suppressors with on two different uppers on my AR15 and on my AR10. I use the Griffin Resistance Suppressor.

Here is a breakdown of the Calibers and the suppressor I use:

AR-15 22LR OPTIMA Quiet with all cartridge
223 OPTIMA Can be Louder than I like
300 BLACKOUT OPTIMA Subsonic loads a quiet
9MM LUGER RESISTANCE 147gr are Quiet
45ACP RESISTANCE Other than the 22LR this is Quieter

AR-10 7.62 X 51 OPTIMA USE HEARING PROTECTION
300 MAG OPTIMA USE HEARING PROTECTION

The 5.56, 300 Blackout, are well within the safe hearing range. If I use the 220gr Subsonic Loads in the Blackout, it is safe and I can remove my earmuffs and it is very enjoyable. The 5.56 is louder as the bullet is supersonic and the crack is not suppressible.

The 9mm Luger is well within the safe hearing range if you use subsonic loads. If I use the 115gr Commercial Loads, it is safe But, I do use my earmuffs and it is very enjoyable. This is because I am firing this cartridge in a 45 caliber suppressor. The 45ACP being naturally subsonic it is a dream to shoot, as it is exactly matched to the suppressor.

I will not release my Sound Meter Db numbers. I made the readings with a certified calibrated Sound meter that I borrowed from a Certified Laboratory.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2017, 08:53 AM
Kadonny Kadonny is offline
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Originally Posted by CAPTEOD View Post
The 9mm Luger is well within the safe hearing range if you use subsonic loads. If I use the 115gr Commercial Loads, it is safe But, I do use my earmuffs and it is very enjoyable. This is because I am firing this cartridge in a 45 caliber suppressor. The 45ACP being naturally subsonic it is a dream to shoot, as it is exactly matched to the suppressor.
See with my supressor that was built for .45acp, when I change the nielsen device on it to 9mm, it's not nearly as quiet even with subsonic 9mm rounds. I would not even call it hearing safe. With the .45acp though, it's scary quiet and a total dream to shoot, no ears required at all. I'm guessing since the 9mm is smaller in the .45 can, it lends for more noise. I would think that's the same with rifle calibers too, but maybe not?
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:54 AM
WilsonCombatRep WilsonCombatRep is offline
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See with my supressor that was built for .45acp, when I change the nielsen device on it to 9mm, it's not nearly as quiet even with subsonic 9mm rounds. I would not even call it hearing safe. With the .45acp though, it's scary quiet and a total dream to shoot, no ears required at all. I'm guessing since the 9mm is smaller in the .45 can, it lends for more noise. I would think that's the same with rifle calibers too, but maybe not?
It's not the same with non-magnum rifle calibers in rifle cans in my experience.
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2017, 12:38 PM
Kelpiemonk Kelpiemonk is offline
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I know that the Thunderbeast 338 can is quieter with 6.5 rounds than their 6.5 can is, if that helps at all.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2017, 01:22 PM
archangel2003 archangel2003 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1911 View Post
The .30 cal Whisper is one heck of a versatile suppressor.

Just pitch the flash hider and bolt on an appropriate rapid thread muzzle brake, use the provided shim kit to properly index the brake and youre good to go. I use the Wilson blast diverter when shooting without the suppressor installed - it keeps the spent gases from rocket propelling up your nose and protects the muzzle brake threads from getting banged up.

So, what threads are on the out side of those muzzle brakes?

I have a list of the most common thread pitches intended for the different calibers and their barrels, but never saw any mention of those on the outer surfaces of muzzle breaks intended for suppressors.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2017, 01:44 PM
blasternaz blasternaz is offline
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Most muzzle attachment devices use a proprietary pitch or, in the case of the Vortex, a groove to attach the actual can. Nothing "standardized" between manufactures, like barrel threads. And even those vary some, depending on manufactures preferances.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2017, 02:05 PM
archangel2003 archangel2003 is offline
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Originally Posted by blasternaz View Post
Most muzzle attachment devices use a proprietary pitch or, in the case of the Vortex, a groove to attach the actual can. Nothing "standardized" between manufactures, like barrel threads. And even those vary some, depending on manufactures preferences.
I have a tap and drill for every barrel thread any of my guns have (except the AK) and before I researched it, never knew there were so many standard thread counts per thread size.

Funny, every file concerning thread I try to upload says it's invalid.
I have one thats a full and complete thread pitch guide and one called AAC Thread Guide

I once had a hose blow on a piece of German Lens manufacturing equipment and had to use an optical comparator to find out what thread it was.
Turns out it was a 16.5mm thread that did not exist, anywhere, so it had to be special ordered from Germany.
I just cut the hose at the split and added American fittings to connect the two remaining pieces.

I doubt these are "special" like that.
Give me an OD and number of threads per inch (standard or metric) and I'd bet I can find a tap and die for it!

A few of them I did find potential issue with when trying to verify the list, but most all of them are good.

0000-160

000-120

00-90

00-96

0-80

1-64

1-72

2-56

2-64

3-48

3-56

4-40

4-48

5-40

5-44

6-32

6-40

6-48

8-24

8-32

8-36

8-40

10-24

10-28

10-32

10-36

10-40

10-48

10-56

12-24

12-28

12-36

3/16"-100

7/32"-32

1/4"-20

1/4"-24

1/4"-27

1/4"-28

1/4"-32

1/4"-36

1/4"-40

1/4"-48

1/4"-56

1/4"-80

9/32"-32

5/16"-18

5/16"-20

5/16"-24

5/16"-27

5/16"-28

5/16"-32

5/16"-40

11/32"-32

3/8"-16

3/8"-18

3/8"-20

3/8"-24

3/8"-27

3/8"-28

3/8"-32

3/8"-40

7/16"-14

7/16"-16

7/16"-18

7/16"-20

7/16"-24

7/16"-27

7/16"-28

7/16"-32

7/16"-40

15/32"-32

1/2"-12

1/2"-13

1/2"-14

1/2"-16

1/2"-18

1/2"-20

1/2"-24

1/2"-27

1/2"-28

1/2"-32

1/2"-40

9/16"-12

9/16"-14

9/16"-16

9/16"-18

9/16"-20

9/16"-24

9/16"-27

9/16"-28

9/16"-32

.578-28

5/8"-11

5/8"-12

5/8"-14

5/8"-16

5/8"-18

5/8"-20

5/8"-24

5/8"-27

5/8"-28

5/8"-32

11/16"-12

11/16"-16

11/16"-18

11/16"-20

11/16"-24

11/16"-32

3/4"-10

3/4"-12

3/4"-16

3/4"-18

3/4"-20

3/4"-24

3/4"-28

3/4"-32

13/16"-12

13/16"-16

13/16"-20

13/16"-28

13/16"-32

7/8"-9

7/8"-12

7/8"-14

7/8"-16

7/8"-18

7/8"-20

7/8"-24

7/8"-27

7/8"-28

7/8"-32

15/16"-12

15/16"-16

15/16"-20

15/16"-28

15/16"-32

1"-8

1"-12

1"-14

1"-16

1"-18

1"-20

1"-24

1"-27

1"-28

1"-32

1 1/16"-8

1 1/16"-12

1 1/16"-20

1 1/8"-7

1 1/8"-12

1 1/8"-14

1 1/8"-16

1 1/8"-20

1 3/16"-12

1 3/16"-16

1 3/16"-20

1 1/4"-7

1 1/4"-12

1 1/4"-16

1 1/4"-18

1 1/4"-20

1 5/16"-16

1 3/8"-6

1 3/8"-12

1 3/8"-16

1 3/8"-24

1 1/2"-6

1 1/2"-12

1 1/2"-16

1 5/8"-16

1 7/8"-12

Last edited by archangel2003; 12-01-2017 at 02:27 PM.
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  #21  
Old 12-01-2017, 04:13 PM
US1911 US1911 is offline
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Originally Posted by archangel2003 View Post
So, what threads are on the out side of those muzzle brakes?
Theyre massive, the od is 24mm x 1.5 thread pitch. The id follows a common thread pitch:

-.30 cal muzzle brake: 5/8 x 24
-.223 muzzle brake: 1/2 x 28
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2017, 09:41 PM
archangel2003 archangel2003 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1911 View Post
Theyre massive, the od is 24mm x 1.5 thread pitch. The id follows a common thread pitch:

-.30 cal muzzle brake: 5/8 x 24
-.223 muzzle brake: 1/2 x 28
Amazon

Merlintools
24mm X 1.5 Metric HSS Right Hand Thread Tap M24 X 1.5mm Pitch
Price: $34.08 + $6.49 shipping

Here is the AAC-thread-guide.PDF on Google Search

https://www.google.com/search?source....0.AwoLeU_Jthw

Last edited by archangel2003; 12-01-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2017, 01:49 PM
US1911 US1911 is offline
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Originally Posted by archangel2003 View Post
Merlintools
24mm X 1.5 Metric HSS Right Hand Thread Tap M24 X 1.5mm Pitch
Price: $34.08 + $6.49 shipping
You asked what the od thread pitch was for the Wilson muzzle brake, but replied with info for a tap tool.

I have no desire to thread my own brake, but if I did, Id use a die not a tap.
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Old 12-02-2017, 04:46 PM
Tarmy Tarmy is offline
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Jeez...you guys in free states sure have some nice toys....

First world problems...and choices. We do not allow that here in Commiefornia.
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2017, 10:21 AM
archangel2003 archangel2003 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1911 View Post
You asked what the od thread pitch was for the Wilson muzzle brake, but replied with info for a tap tool.

I have no desire to thread my own brake, but if I did, Id use a die not a tap.
The tap was used to show that the thread pitch is commonly available.

I'd personally use a lathe to cut any external threads needing a high level of accuracy (assuming I had a lathe, which I don't, as of yet).
I still prefer a tap for internal threads.
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