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  #1  
Old 03-26-2009, 11:11 PM
norton850 norton850 is offline
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Browning trigger pin removal made easy

I just spent a week restoring an old fn high power that had the ugly scratched up painted finish. Mechanically the gun was in new condition, except for carry wear. I wanted to completely disassemble it and reblue it and improve the trigger. I knew the trigger pin would be a bitch to get out. At first i hit it with a large brass drift from the right to the left. I could drive it flush with the reciever, but after trying for 2 hrs. To drive it out with a small pin punch it would not move and i didn't want to ding up the frame on the gun, so i determined i would need a small arbor press from harbor frieght for $39 and i then used a small piece of brass 3/8 rod with the end ground to look like a pencil point, with a small blunt tip. The whole brass piece is only about a 1 1/2" long. I then place the frame on a wood block with a small hole drilled into it for the trigger pin to go thru. I then place the frame & wood block under the arbor press and then use the small brass pointed drift to press out the pin. Once the pin moves about a 1/16" under the frame the pin slides out easy. Note the brass drift may bend or break a few times , but after reshaping it, it will press out the pin fine. I then bought a new trigger pin from brownells that drives in easy with a plastic hammer. I also bought steves camps disassembly manual. It helped me take the gun apart. Also you can make a small steel drift pin out of a ground down drill bit smaller than the trigger pin, but the hard pin may still damage the hole if you slip. The brass punch is still the way to go as it will not hurt the metal

Note ! I just bought another $350 FN painted high power, and began the disassembly and the trigger pin removal above failed to work even with the arbor press and using cut down drill bits it snapped 4 bits in a row with out moving. This one was stuck , but it did move flush with the reciever with a big brass drift and big hammer and about ten hard hits. I wasn't about to give up , but what I needed was a more durable bit to drive out the pin. What I used next was some old worn out phillips screw driver bits. I placed them into the cordless drill and held it up to a bench grider and used the drill and the grinder as a POLISH LATHE and turn the tip down to a round cylinder drift to about .075" , note the trigger pin is about .120" . I used this bit under the arbor press and it drove the pin out a little at a time. The ground down bit broke 3 times , but it finally drove the pin out about an 1/8" ( enough to safely use a regular steel drift punch and a big hammer. Note this pin had to be completely hammered out, Alot harder than the first one. I went thru all this to not ding up the reciever and I was very successfull.

Last edited by norton850; 04-15-2009 at 11:36 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2009, 01:09 AM
Stephen A. Camp Stephen A. Camp is offline
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Hello. I will sticky it.

Best.
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2009, 08:51 AM
jhp-jcp jhp-jcp is offline
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mag safety removal

i am either dumb, stupid or just slightly confused. i have removed the mag safety 'guts' from two Hi-Powers. all i did was drive the pin out of the trigger (NOT the trigger pin but the little pin visible going THRU the trigger laterally) and pulled the 'guts' out thru the mag-well. both have had thousands of rounds thru them since. am i missing something? my BHP is an FN 84 mkII and the other was a friends newer practical.
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:41 AM
Stephen A. Camp Stephen A. Camp is offline
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Hello. No, the magazine disconnect guts can be removed that way. I did so on many '70's vintage Hi Powers. On some later-made Hi Powers, the trigger assembly requires being removed. I am not sure exactly where the cuttoff date is but on my early run Mk II, "245PV" serial number, bought in March of '86, the trigger had to be removed to take out the disconnector parts.


Best.
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Last edited by Stephen A. Camp; 05-07-2009 at 10:01 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-21-2009, 07:31 AM
bigpipe bigpipe is offline
 
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Browning trigger pin removal made easy

with the gun pointing to the left, punch the pin through and out. You need a good steel puch and you have to wail on it.
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2009, 09:00 AM
MoonRunX MoonRunX is offline
 
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Browning trigger pin removal made easy

I read the trigger 101 and for the life of me cant understand what side this should come out of.

What side of the marker do I need facing up when removing the trigger pin?

The board side left side when shooting
The backside of the boardright side when shooting
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2009, 11:02 PM
norton850 norton850 is offline
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pin direction

the trigger pin is tapered and in meant to be driven from right to left for removal. Hit the trigger pin with a hammer from the ejection port side or right side of gun.
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  #8  
Old 06-22-2009, 07:14 AM
Bob Reed Bob Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norton850 View Post
the trigger pin is tapered and in meant to be driven from right to left for removal. Hit the trigger pin with a hammer from the ejection port side or right side of gun.
Hello,

The pin isn't tapered, it's original spec is .117" Dia. from end to end, the hole in the R.H. Side of the frame is under sized, so be sure to drive the pin out from Right to Left. The current production Matte Finished Trigger Pin's measure .1176" Dia. all the way across.
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  #9  
Old 08-22-2009, 04:25 PM
KLR KLR is offline
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Guys, I'd try a DIY on the magazine safety if I knew that it could be accomplished by simply removing the retaining pin from the trigger. Is there any way to know in advance if the magazine safety removal will require the removal of the entire trigger assembly? Thanks for the help.

KLR
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2009, 07:33 PM
Stephen A. Camp Stephen A. Camp is offline
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Hello. I has the best luck removing magazine disconnects by removing only the pin you speak of on Hi Powers from the '70's. On others, it has been hit or miss, but usually requiring the trigger assembly to be removed.

Best.
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  #11  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:02 PM
KLR KLR is offline
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Steve, what is it that prevents the disconnect from being removed? Is it how the frame is formed, the over all tightness or something else? I appreciate you thoughts.

KLR
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:06 PM
Stephen A. Camp Stephen A. Camp is offline
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Hello. There is just enough dimensional change in the frame that the lifter cannot be worked toward the left side of the frame (facing away from shooter) and "wiggled" while out of the slot that it normally rides in.

Best.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2011, 03:15 PM
bnz43 bnz43 is offline
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Excellent information. I had to reinstall the magazine disconnector and the information came in very handy.
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  #14  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:34 AM
Nick Nick is offline
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use a nail setting or "cupped" punch on the pin. The tip of the pin will sit in the cup so it CANNOT slip off. Once pin is slightly below ths frame use a standard brass punch to finish driving it out.
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  #15  
Old 08-23-2012, 12:24 PM
trigger45 trigger45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen A. Camp
Hello. No, the magazine disconnect guts can be removed that way. I did so on many '70's vintage Hi Powers. On some later-made Hi Powers, the trigger assembly requires being removed. I am not sure exactly where the cuttoff date is but on my early run Mk II, "245PV" serial number, bought in March of '86, the trigger had to be removed to take out the disconnector parts.


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  #16  
Old 11-26-2012, 10:12 PM
whisperhog whisperhog is offline
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Generally, you are better off using an aluminum drift as opposed to brass, since brass can work harden under repeated blows to the point where it will deform steel. Also, aluminum will only leave a silvery stain on the steel which is easily removed with a bit of solvent, while brass can permanently remove bluing. In over fifty years of use I have never had aluminum work harden to the point where it would deform steel. I sometimes use old X-acto knife handles as punches.

(Edit: Had to remove an erroneous statement; Was thinking of another make of gun.)

Last edited by whisperhog; 11-26-2012 at 11:09 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:46 PM
norton850 norton850 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperhog View Post
Generally, you are better off using an aluminum drift as opposed to brass, since brass can work harden under repeated blows to the point where it will deform steel. Also, aluminum will only leave a silvery stain on the steel which is easily removed with a bit of solvent, while brass can permanently remove bluing. In over fifty years of use I have never had aluminum work harden to the point where it would deform steel. I sometimes use old X-acto knife handles as punches.

(Edit: Had to remove an erroneous statement; Was thinking of another make of gun.)
Your wrong in this situation, the problem with using aluminum as a punch is that it is a lot harder than brass and can actually take bluing off, and using it as a punch, it is to lite of a material and can not transfer enough force to the pin. I have never seen a brass punch remove bluing or parkerizing, unless it had a sharp or jagged edge that would work as a knife edge etc.

Punches or drifts should always have any sharp edges or mushrooming metal remove from them prior to use, for saftey and to avoid damaging the item being worked on.

Brass is a lot more dense than aluminum and far better suited in this situation.
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  #18  
Old 06-22-2014, 05:17 PM
jmq4 jmq4 is offline
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I found this thread after struggling with the trigger axis pin on a matte hp and bought a small HF arbor press as suggested (btw, simple green takes the smell of the preservative away). I was going to use a ground screwdriver bit or brass rod as suggested, but remembered that security bits have hollow ends to fit over the pins in screws. HF has a set on sale for $6.99 so i wasn't concerned with messing them up. Found a round strong but thin round magnet that sticks to the bottom of the ram and holds the bit firmly, the magnet eventually broke in half, but i didn't care since it holds the bit somewhat square and securely. I taped the pin and receiver with electrical tape to be safe and used scraps of leather to pad the receiver and to get it somewhat level. Selected a smallish diameter bit that fit over the tapered point of the axis pin, and the pin broke free easily. I used an even smaller diameter bit to press the pin all the way out. About $40, but i can use the press and bits for other things.

Joe
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2014, 11:49 AM
TerryMathews TerryMathews is offline
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http://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/818

It's like this tool was made for removing the trigger pin, as long as you don't mind the end of the pin getting a dimple in it.
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  #20  
Old 11-13-2014, 09:00 PM
scythefwd scythefwd is offline
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My current mkiii is harder than hell to move, I think its slightly misaligned. My inglis is pretty easy to remove. I'm gonna try to fit the trigger to the frame. I think the holes are slightly misaligned in mine...

Last edited by scythefwd; 11-13-2014 at 09:03 PM.
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  #21  
Old 11-13-2014, 10:13 PM
wild_Bill77 wild_Bill77 is offline
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It sure can seem that way for sure. (maybe yours is Idk) I was unable to get mine out using all the advice here on this forum. Finally threw in the towel and took mine to a gunsmith. There's something about the mk iii epoxy coating that welds that pin in place. The hard chrome and blued mk iii frames don't seem to be so hard to get out.
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  #22  
Old 01-14-2015, 07:34 PM
colrhino colrhino is offline
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I read all these posts and more, where I could find them, all to no avail. I finally took my pistol to the gunsmith at my range where I shoot, and explained to him how to remove the mag catch, as I had read it, on this forum and elsewhere. What the issue was with my 1982 vintage BHP, was the coil spring that the trigger pin is running through, on the inside of the frame, has one end that sits inside a groove IN THE PIN, that you can't see very well, you first have to lift this end up and outside of the groove, and ONLY THEN can the pin be driven out. It took him a few minutes to find it, but as soon as he did, viola. Either I did not see this step in the procedure, or it was a bit vague, or whatever, but I just wanted to share this inf. I know this thread is "old", but I just did mine before Christmas 2014.
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2015, 06:43 PM
Gator89 Gator89 is offline
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I just finished removing the trigger pin from Hades. Ruined two 3/32 punches, but I got it done. Out of six mag disconnects removed, this one was the worst.

OBTW, this one was an Israeli marked FN Hi Power I purchased from AIM Surplus recently.
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  #24  
Old 05-21-2015, 08:24 PM
trackster trackster is offline
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I just went through this too, ruining two different punches before the pin finally moved. Fortunately the only damage to the finish was on the head of the pin itself, which I will try and dab some cold blue on.
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  #25  
Old 10-13-2015, 09:26 PM
mightymouse mightymouse is offline
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It is difficult to ruin a solid 3/32" punch. Use a 3/32" pin punch, however, and you are asking for trouble. Use the solid punch to loosen the pin, and the pin punch to drive out the already loosened pin. See my post (with pic) above if you don't know the difference between the two types of punches.
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