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  #26  
Old 10-17-2015, 08:59 PM
JK-linux JK-linux is offline
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Finally got around to removing the pin on my latest tonight. Mine is a 02/2015 build, standard black epoxy BHP. Anyhow, be aware that, on mine at least, the pin is much more loose than on the 2008 and 1994 models I did before. I went slow and didn't smack it with but 1/2 the force my others required. Had I done what I assumed I needed to do, I'd have likely deformed the pin hole. They may be making them looser these days...
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  #27  
Old 02-29-2016, 06:00 PM
Summitradio Summitradio is offline
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I used an old bicycle chain breaker to start the pin moving then punched out with a pin punch. I may machine it to make it a little more BHP friendly.
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  #28  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:56 PM
X. Biedler X. Biedler is offline
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I recently acquired an almost mint Mk III matt pistol, made circa 1980. I had previously taken out the pins on an Inglis (easy) and a 1993 Israeli Mk. III (NOT easy) but this latest one is a BEAR.

Turns out that a trip I'm planning takes me within a few miles of C&S' shop in Fremont NE. By prearrangement I'm dropping the pistol off for this little job, and picking it up on the way back a week later. Cost, $17.

I've learned over the years when to hand jobs off to the pros. I get nervous when I start looking for bigger hammers.
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2016, 10:42 PM
pendennis pendennis is offline
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Thursday, I picked up a ca. 2002, MkIII Hi Power in .40 S&W, used but in reality new. Not a mark on it. The mag safety was still installed.

Tonight, I clamped the frame down to my work bench, with the pin overhanging the edge. Two sliding clamps held it firmly. I then covered the surfaces of the frame with "gaffers" tape, which is very thick. I used a 16oz ball peen hammer and 3/8" flat punch to tap out the sear pin. I refreshed the tape cover three times to keep up the protection.

When the round side of the pin was flush with the frame, I used a cupped nail set to move the pin below flush level, and it then came out easily with a 3/32" punch from BH Spring Solutions. I then supported the trigger with a small stack of cleaning patches to take out the trigger pin.

Removal of the mag safety was accomplished in short order, and I reassembled the pistol in short order. Start to finish was not more than 15 minutes.

Trigger pull is definitely better, and it will need some breaking in because of the guns newness.

Wednesday, off to the range.
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  #30  
Old 04-19-2016, 05:42 PM
Sunset_Va Sunset_Va is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightymouse View Post
It is difficult to ruin a solid 3/32" punch. Use a 3/32" pin punch, however, and you are asking for trouble. Use the solid punch to loosen the pin, and the pin punch to drive out the already loosened pin. See my post (with pic) above if you don't know the difference between the two types of punches.

True. If anyone does gunsmithing, will have about 20 punches in their collection. Not cheap ones, but name brand that will take much useage.
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  #31  
Old 12-12-2016, 10:13 AM
crasig crasig is offline
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I saw a good video about Mag safety removal, that showed how to do it without removing the trigger. What I haven't seen here is the suggestion to find a plastic bottle cap to support the trigger while punching out the pin. I found the right diameter & height plastic bottle cap & hacksawed off one side of the cap - to make room for the emerging pin. It worked like charm. It really does improve the trigger pull & action.
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  #32  
Old 04-16-2017, 06:39 PM
VIS35 VIS35 is offline
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Mag-safety removal

Lots of varying experiences. Just yesterday I did a mag safety removal job on my 1985 MKII shooter. Dropped some Kroil on both ( trigger and safety ) pins for a half hour. Then used a roll-pin punch and "gently" tapped on the trigger pin, from the right for several dozen taps; the pin began slowly moving, then came right out. The hardest part of the operation is getting the trigger assembly out of the gun. Finally, I used a pin punch and tapped the dimpled end ( yes they're dimpled on one end) of the safety pin; and eventually it too came out. The reassembly of the trigger assembly sans mag safety went fine. VOILA-all done
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Last edited by VIS35; 04-16-2017 at 07:25 PM. Reason: wording
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  #33  
Old 05-21-2017, 02:27 PM
hhsohn hhsohn is offline
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Just wanted to add that my Israeli surplus mk III with epoxy finish managed to bend BHSS Trigger Starter Punch and mushroom BHSS starter punch when trying to hammer out the trigger pun. Might not be an issue with BHSS tools so much as how tough these pins can be. Managed to get the pin flush after using a c-clamp and cranking on it, but I can't get it to budge anymore. This was after soaking with Break Free for 4 days...
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2017, 09:27 AM
Sailormilan2 Sailormilan2 is offline
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I just did my Isreali reimport with a parked frame, and it was tough. First I soaked it in Kroil, then I used a brass drift to loosen it. Right to left. But once drifted over about 1/16", it refused to go any farther. Broke a pin punch trying to get it to move.
Finally, I dug out an aluminum AR alignment pin, which I mounted in my drill press and tried to use the drill press as an arbor press. Which didn't work, and the pin kept sliding deeper into the chuck, no matter how much I tightened it.
Finally I closed the chuck, then placed the pin, point against the trigger pin, and base against the rounded chuck, and then worked the handle. Now,this is with the pin already moved about 1/16". It took some pressure, but the trigger pin finally popped loose with a loud "pop". Then it was a simple matter of tapping it all the way out with a pin punch. I did need to reprofile the end of the trigger pin. But that is no biggie, and it will stay shiney until I refinish the slide.
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  #35  
Old 02-15-2019, 08:04 PM
mightymouse mightymouse is offline
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Use a 3/32" solid punch to start the trigger axis pin moving, then drive it out--always right to left--with the 3/32" pin punch.
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