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  #1  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:47 PM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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Citadel 1911

Hi guys! Just bought a Citadel 1911.

I wanted a cheap gun to play around with before I spent money on something more expensive.

Additionally,I wanted to use this opportunity to learn how the 1911 platform works and eventually upgrade it.

What upgrades have you guns done to your Citadel? Did you have to fit the parts in or were they drop in?

Thank you guys.


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  #2  
Old 01-10-2017, 07:27 PM
Zedbra Zedbra is offline
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Location: Squamish, British Columbia
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I just picked up a Citadel as well and put the first 200 rounds down it. I polished some of the internals and am leaving it as-is for now. What upgrades so you need? The only thing I don;t like is the ambi safety that slides through the sear roll pi - have a look. I'd like to see that gone one day.
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:02 PM
sevenL4 sevenL4 is offline
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Buy Kuhnhausen's manual. I have found the sear springs on those pistols to be junk. All the other parts could be polished and tuned, one at a time. It's hard to resist the impulse to buy a bunch of 'match grade' parts and to install them without knowing why you're doing it. I think it's possible to make a pretty good pistol by just doing the needed 'finishing' on the base gun.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:10 PM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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What Sevenl4 said. The internals are a hit or miss. I'd feel better if I eventually replaced the internals. Plus it gives me a chance to truly take apart the gun and learn about it. That's the true goal.


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  #5  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:11 PM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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Zedbra did you have any failures with yours so far?


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  #6  
Old 01-10-2017, 10:09 PM
Zedbra Zedbra is offline
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I had only two failure to load issues within the first 50 rounds, nothing for the next 150 rounds. I haven't been able to get back to the range since.

When I detail stripped mine, I was surprised at the lack of tool marks on the internals. I polished the trigger bar, sear sides, and the disconnector blade on both sides and adjusted the over travel just slightly. The pistol breaks at 4.25# with no creep. I'll only replace parts when they break, though I am going to use this pistol to try different spring rates etc.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2017, 07:40 AM
jtq jtq is offline
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There are two parts to installing new parts into the 1911.

First, is the quality of the replacement part.

Second, is quality of the installation.

You can have a significantly better replacement part than the factory part, but if you don't have the skills to install it correctly, you're generally better off just keeping the factory part.

The 1911 is not like a Glock or AR. Parts generally don't just snap in.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2017, 08:04 AM
jtq jtq is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtq View Post
... if you don't have the skills to install it correctly, you're generally better off just keeping the factory part.
I'm talking to myself here. I've only replaced springs and grips on my 1911.
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2017, 02:37 PM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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JTQ what kind of springs did you get? Why did you replace the sounds?


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  #10  
Old 01-11-2017, 02:38 PM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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Springs*


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  #11  
Old 01-11-2017, 02:54 PM
jtq jtq is offline
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I've replaced recoil and firing pin springs. This is on an old Colt, but these are normal maintenance items. Actually, the last firing pin spring was replaced due to breakage. It wasn't due for replacement, but a coil broke off and locked up the firing pin in the forward position. I replaced both the recoil and firing pin spring at that point. I wouldn't replace anything on a new gun unless it broke.

I bought my last set of springs from Wilson Combat, but I've also used Brownell's and Wolff for springs.

For grips, I replaced rubber (non-finger grooved) wraparound grips with Hogue ebony double diamond checkered panels.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2017, 11:11 AM
archer_ archer_ is online now
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Thank you for your help guys! All this is very useful and will save me a lot of time and money!


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