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  #1  
Old 01-09-2017, 08:31 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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So I am curious.

I am curious how long a stock OEM slide stop in a Stainless Springfield 1911 a1 would last being that it is MIM?

Have tried after market slide stops that measure .200 but was afraid to shoot in fear of messing something up because it seems the barrel is not hard fit but defiantly fit in the area of the lower lugs to the slide stop shaft..now I am sure I could just file on the barrel lower lugs but cannot find a tutorial on it. I have always watched youtube tutorials and that is where I get my know how..trial and error doing things my self and happy to say there have been minimal errors. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2017, 08:49 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
I am curious how long a stock OEM slide stop in a Stainless Springfield 1911 a1 would last being that it is MIM?

Have tried after market slide stops that measure .200 but was afraid to shoot in fear of messing something up because it seems the barrel is not hard fit but defiantly fit in the area of the lower lugs to the slide stop shaft..now I am sure I could just file on the barrel lower lugs but cannot find a tutorial on it. I have always watched youtube tutorials and that is where I get my know how..trial and error doing things my self and happy to say there have been minimal errors. Thanks.
The OEM slide stop will work and last as long as it isn't abused. The .200 is fine as well, and will not hurt/damage anything as long as the slide closes to battery. Paranoia can be overcome by understanding just how things work.

LOG
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:24 AM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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The slide does close with a .200 stop but I do not understand how it can be good for the moving parts such as the barrel lugs or any if the locking action if the barrel feet are not fit to the slide stop.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:48 AM
log man log man is offline
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The radius of the cut of the lower lugs is actually best to be slightly smaller than the pin. This way the barrel rides up on the lower lug and is stopped by the feet, the radius isn't touching or influencing the barrels position.

LOG
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:15 AM
roaniecowpony roaniecowpony is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
The slide does close with a .200 stop but I do not understand how it can be good for the moving parts such as the barrel lugs or any if the locking action if the barrel feet are not fit to the slide stop.
When a production barrel is not hard fit into the slide, and you run an oversize shank on the slide stop, you are likely putting the link in tension by running the shank hard against the lower lug camming surfaces. Will it last? maybe. Everything is a compromise. With a hard enough fit that way, I've seen broken links. Not a big problem. There are many link lengths to choose from.
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2017, 11:03 AM
log man log man is offline
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Originally Posted by roaniecowpony View Post
When a production barrel is not hard fit into the slide, and you run an oversize shank on the slide stop, you are likely putting the link in tension by running the shank hard against the lower lug camming surfaces. Will it last? maybe. Everything is a compromise. With a hard enough fit that way, I've seen broken links. Not a big problem. There are many link lengths to choose from.
A slide stop with a .200" pin is not oversize to begin with. Spec is .2005"-.0020"

The link is not in any jeopardy unless the barrel is not being stopped by the VIS. As we know many 1911 barrels ride the link and last forever.

If the barrel is riding the link you can push the chamber down a little when in battery.

To check for VIS contact one can insert the slide stop pin with the lever hanging down, press the muzzle firmly against a solid surface, and swing the lever to feel if the link is binding the pin which would indicate the barrel is not stopping against the VIS.

Unless the barrel is fit to ride the link, the link size should be the shortest that will allow the slide stop pin to contact the stop feet of the lower lug, at this point the link will be snug against the pin. This can be checked with the barrel and slide stop pin in hand.

Ideally the link starts the barrels rise to battery, and passes off to the lower lug as it closes to battery.

LOG
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:27 PM
Cannibul Cannibul is offline
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I've had three Colt bar stock slide stops break. I've yet to have a MIM part break.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2017, 01:09 PM
Shorikid Shorikid is offline
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My SA Mil-Spec had about 5k rounds through it before I changed over to an EGW SS with .200 pin. The are no signs of wear on either pin or the barrel with 3k rounds on the new ss, no undue signs of wear on the original part either. Log man is full of wisdom and knowledge.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2017, 01:30 PM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannibul View Post
I've had three Colt bar stock slide stops break. I've yet to have a MIM part break.
Where exactly did they break? Shaft, arm, lug, junction of shaft and arm, slide clearance slot, or other? There are multiple failure modes. Some are material related, some manufacturing?
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2017, 06:12 PM
Cannibul Cannibul is offline
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Originally Posted by BBBBill View Post
Where exactly did they break? Shaft, arm, lug, junction of shaft and arm, slide clearance slot, or other? There are multiple failure modes. Some are material related, some manufacturing?
All had the inner portion sheared off.
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Semper Fi. COTEP member. Blaming your phone for your misspelled words is the same as blaming your pistol for the misses.

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  #11  
Old 01-10-2017, 06:22 PM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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If you mean the lug that engages the magazine follower then that is a known failure point on Colt slide stops, unrelated to the material used. Poor machining is the cause.
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2017, 12:14 PM
Cannibul Cannibul is offline
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Originally Posted by BBBBill View Post
If you mean the lug that engages the magazine follower then that is a known failure point on Colt slide stops, unrelated to the material used. Poor machining is the cause.
That's it.

Along with the three Colt barrel bushings I've had fail. Two on Officer's models, the other was on a Government model.
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Semper Fi. COTEP member. Blaming your phone for your misspelled words is the same as blaming your pistol for the misses.

You know what I find ridiculous? People who use the word ridiculous and can't spell it. Alot is NOT A WORD. A lot is the opposite of a little.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2017, 12:34 PM
stu929 stu929 is offline
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Originally Posted by Cannibul View Post
That's it.

Along with the three Colt barrel bushings I've had fail. Two on Officer's models, the other was on a Government model.
Ive never seen a barrel bushing fail?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2017, 07:24 PM
Cannibul Cannibul is offline
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Originally Posted by stu929 View Post
Ive never seen a barrel bushing fail?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
The stainless Officer's model bushing were known to crack. I've had two of those pistols and both bushings cracked.

The third failure was on carbon steel bushing that cracked.
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Semper Fi. COTEP member. Blaming your phone for your misspelled words is the same as blaming your pistol for the misses.

You know what I find ridiculous? People who use the word ridiculous and can't spell it. Alot is NOT A WORD. A lot is the opposite of a little.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2017, 10:48 AM
ironman_gq ironman_gq is offline
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I had a factory commander bushing crack, that gun was in need of some serious love and I ended up replacing the barrel, bushing and springs. Barrel had a groove worn where the bushing mated on the muzzle end that had to be .020 deep.
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2017, 10:53 AM
Vin63 Vin63 is offline
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I have a late '90s Trophy Match that is approaching 30K rounds with all of the factory original parts and no parts failures...can't say the same thing about the shooter, but not one part failure on the pistol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
I am curious how long a stock OEM slide stop in a Stainless Springfield 1911 a1 would last being that it is MIM?
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  #17  
Old 01-15-2017, 03:48 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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Sorry I have been away for a little bit of time on vacation. Thank you for the info. Log you make sense in your writings. With my barrel in battery (under recoil spring tension I assume for this test) I cannot push down on the barrel hood to get it to budge downward..so would this indicate it be safe to run a .200 slide stop? It almost sounds as if the pistol is better off with a larger than Springfield stock diameter SS shank?
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2017, 08:26 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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Can we re-touch on this?
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2017, 08:36 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
Sorry I have been away for a little bit of time on vacation. Thank you for the info. Log you make sense in your writings. With my barrel in battery (under recoil spring tension I assume for this test) I cannot push down on the barrel hood to get it to budge downward..so would this indicate it be safe to run a .200 slide stop? It almost sounds as if the pistol is better off with a larger than Springfield stock diameter SS shank?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
Can we re-touch on this?
Whether the barrel is riding the link, or the lower lug into battery, it is always safe to run a large, slide stop pin, as long as it closes on its own.

LOG
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  #20  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:14 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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Okay I'll take your word for it and go for it. I'm apologive and don't mean any disrespect with all my questions I just like to understand the inter-mechanical workings or everything. So I guess I dont understand during lockup if the semi circular shape above the barrel feet is supposed to fit the SS shaft perfect or like you said LOG, the only the barrel feet need tof make contact.
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:20 PM
Delta9 Delta9 is offline
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So slide does close on its own with no resistance but if I removed the dinconvenience I feel an ever so slightly well I wouldn't call it a bind but a very miniscule reseatance. So I'm my mind with a tiny bit of resistance how could it not cause more wear.
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:57 PM
log man log man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9 View Post
Okay I'll take your word for it and go for it. I'm apologive and don't mean any disrespect with all my questions I just like to understand the inter-mechanical workings or everything. So I guess I dont understand during lockup if the semi circular shape above the barrel feet is supposed to fit the SS shaft perfect or like you said LOG, the only the barrel feet need tof make contact.
And you should always understand the reason, and consequences of any change. To do that you have to grasp just exactly how things influence one another.

Example:
The contact between the horizontal, and vertical of the lower lug are what is fitted and important. If the radius of this arc that joins these is greater than the pin, then you should be able to see that is a draw back, because the barrel would have a tendency to ride up and then settle. Better if the radius is smaller then only the two surfaces make contact and a repeatable lockup is more closely realized and possible. Realize also that a square corner would be a disaster as well due to the stress and would probably fracture early in the life of the barrel.

LOG
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1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...



Last edited by log man; 01-15-2017 at 10:03 PM.
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