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  #1  
Old 05-17-2020, 09:13 PM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Original finish ?

Hi my friends,just after your thoughts on the originality of this colt 1944 finish, and are the grips suppose to have the reinforcement around the screws ?
All the best
Cheers

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  #2  
Old 05-17-2020, 10:41 PM
mlin mlin is offline
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It's a Ithaca with Remington Rand slide.

Early version of Keys or Coltwood grips don't have reinforcement rings. But the serial number might be a bit too late to have those. As far as I can tell, looks like original finish.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2020, 10:58 PM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Thank you Miln ! You saved me money . I am a babe in the woods when it comes to WW2 1911a1s , I am soaking up information like a sponge but obviously all the deeper understanding of these things for me is still to come.
The trouble here in Oz is that there isn't a lot to start with and when they show up on the nett they are snapped up in a heartbeat !
Once again thank you

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  #4  
Old 05-17-2020, 11:15 PM
mlin mlin is offline
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You are welcome. Here is one quick reference site with essential USGI 1911 and 1911A1 variants information for beginner.
http://www.coolgunsite.com/

I also recommend Joe Poyer's book if you have access to one over there.
https://www.amazon.com/1911A1-Milita.../dp/1882391462
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2020, 12:01 AM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Thanks for that, I will check out that site. I have seen that book on the nett but wasn't sure if it was worth the price but on your recommendation I will get it.
Thanks again for your help
All the best

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  #6  
Old 05-18-2020, 03:23 AM
Sergio Natali Sergio Natali is offline
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From the pictures the finish looks original to me; the pistol seems nice and bears Birmingham Proof House marks, the round one presumably is HB (1982) or KB (1984)
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Anything with a FLGR is fluff, if JMB didn't put it on the 1911 you don't need it.
If you're going to collect, be careful not to get drawn to a piece that is not original, make sure it is a very good example and buy the gun not the story.
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2020, 03:31 AM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Thanks Sergio for that info
All the best

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  #8  
Old 05-18-2020, 11:43 AM
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dsk dsk is offline
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The finish on the parts may or may not be original. Ithaca pistols were usually a fairly dark, charcoal-like Parkerizing while that RR slide appears to be a late war with the Blanchard grinding marks, and those often had a light grey Parkerizing. Given the fact that the finish matches I suspect the pistol was arsenal refinished at some point. Since it's a mixmaster and with proof marks all over it the question of finish is really just academic at this point.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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  #9  
Old 05-18-2020, 03:00 PM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsk View Post
The finish on the parts may or may not be original. Ithaca pistols were usually a fairly dark, charcoal-like Parkerizing while that RR slide appears to be a late war with the Blanchard grinding marks, and those often had a light grey Parkerizing. Given the fact that the finish matches I suspect the pistol was arsenal refinished at some point. Since it's a mixmaster and with proof marks all over it the question of finish is really just academic at this point.
Thanks dsk, yes once I was told it was a mix master I lost interest. Still on the hunt, hopefully I will get the time to check in here before I buy.
All the best

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  #10  
Old 05-18-2020, 06:48 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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What you are going to find is that if you spot a candidate pistol, then have to come here and ask questions it will likely be gone by the time you get back to it. It's important to learn about them first, and then start looking based upon the knowledge you've already gained. I second the recommendation for Joe Poyer's book, plus the obvious ones from Clawson and Meadows if they happen to be available in your country for a reasonable price.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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  #11  
Old 05-18-2020, 07:35 PM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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thanks dsk ,yes the book is on its way ! point taken.
all the best
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  #12  
Old 05-18-2020, 08:56 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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FWIW many years ago I lost out on a really clean WW2-era P38. I had spotted it in a gun shop for what seemed like a really good price. Since I knew nothing about them at the time I made note of the markings, went home and researched it, found out it was all correct and a really good deal at the price, and hot-footed it back to the gun shop during my lunch break the next day. By then it had already been sold.

Then recently I got the hankering for a P38 again, and this time read up about them some more and filled my brain with the necessary info. It took me a few weeks afterwards to find a good one, and it certainly wasn't a bargain like the first one was, but I finally got my pistol and I'm happy. Had I farted around and did more research first it would likely have been gone as well, since I grabbed it the same day it was listed for sale.
__________________
Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.

Last edited by dsk; 05-18-2020 at 09:45 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2020, 09:07 PM
chrometank chrometank is offline
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Yes the quick and the dead ! Fore armed is forewarned, I know how you feel about losing out when you stop to research. I am a Lee Enfield guy and know all the ins and outs of those . I can see one across the room and can tell you if it's a mix master etc. But the 1911s for me are a steep learning curve that I am keen to climb, so many variables to learn.
Hopefully my book will arrive before I find another candidate to buy !
Cheers

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  #14  
Old 05-19-2020, 10:54 AM
1saxman 1saxman is offline
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On that one I'd say the slide is original finish. The Type III slide on my 1945 RR is rather dark, like the frame, although there was a run of earlier ones that did have a more gray finish.

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  #15  
Old 05-19-2020, 11:55 AM
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dsk dsk is offline
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Honestly I can't get over how rough the late war Remington Rands often looked, with everything from deep grinding marks on the flats to wavy edges and odd curvatures. I've seen so many that looked like the guns Germany and Japan were putting together in desperation at the end of the war. At least those guys were losing their butts and had an excuse, but the RRs looked pretty bad compared to the nice clean guns they put out in '43 and '44.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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