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  #1  
Old 05-19-2017, 11:23 AM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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.45 Super in Stainless Expert?

I assume my 2015 production Stainless Expert has a strong enough barrel for .45 Super, and it appears that it has enough case support.

Obviously, I'll need to reduce slide speed (which is already a bit excessive with factory 230gr ball ammo), but I'm thinking that with a EGW firing pin stop and a variety of mainsprings, and maybe a 20lb recoil spring I should be good to go up to 25-28k psi?

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  #2  
Old 05-19-2017, 01:30 PM
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The strength of the barrel certainly isn't a concern, and your case support looks good.
I ran max recommended charges with the EGW stop, 25# main, and 22# recoil spring, and was getting 6-foot ejection (max loads in Delta Elite eject 20+ feet).
.45 Super is a lot more powerful than .45 ACP, but pressure-wise, it's still not especially powerful.
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2017, 05:38 PM
DG1 DG1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxman View Post
I assume my 2015 production Stainless Expert has a strong enough barrel for .45 Super, and it appears that it has enough case support.

Obviously, I'll need to reduce slide speed (which is already a bit excessive with factory 230gr ball ammo), but I'm thinking that with a EGW firing pin stop and a variety of mainsprings, and maybe a 20lb recoil spring I should be good to go up to 25-28k psi?

Mine has what I consider to be a 'huge' radius on the factory firing pin stop.

I think you are on the right track with your thinking here.
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2017, 06:07 PM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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Originally Posted by DG1 View Post
Mine has what I consider to be a 'huge' radius on the factory firing pin stop.

I think you are on the right track with your thinking here.
Mine can infuriate a shooter standing 10' to my right as it flings brass at the top of his shirt.
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2017, 07:30 PM
DG1 DG1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxman View Post
Mine can infuriate a shooter standing 10' to my right as it flings brass at the top of his shirt.
Tweaking (changing) the firing pin retainer will help you keep your recoil spring weight lower very inexpensively and easily.

Slide speed matters in both directions and the heavier the recoil spring the more barrel 'dip' you have to contend with when things lock up / slam shut.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2017, 09:03 PM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG1 View Post
Tweaking (changing) the firing pin retainer will help you keep your recoil spring weight lower very inexpensively and easily.

Slide speed matters in both directions and the heavier the recoil spring the more barrel 'dip' you have to contend with when things lock up / slam shut.
Correct on both counts.
Isn't the information superhighway great?
20 years ago all I'd have known to do would be to look for bigger recoil springs.

Since I want to go for max power eventually, I'm looking to maximize the hammer's leverage on the FPS. If I'm too successful at that and can't get full slide travel with 230gr at 860fps, I can always put weaker springs in it.

Eventually I'll probably buy a compensated barrel and play with Rowland loads in Super brass.
There's two things keeping me from buying a Rowland barrel, it won't headspace properly with ACP, and the brass is too long to use the cannelures in common bullets.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxman View Post
Correct on both counts.
Isn't the information superhighway great?
20 years ago all I'd have known to do would be to look for bigger recoil springs.

Since I want to go for max power eventually, I'm looking to maximize the hammer's leverage on the FPS. If I'm too successful at that and can't get full slide travel with 230gr at 860fps, I can always put weaker springs in it.

Eventually I'll probably buy a compensated barrel and play with Rowland loads in Super brass.
There's two things keeping me from buying a Rowland barrel, it won't headspace properly with ACP, and the brass is too long to use the cannelures in common bullets.
The weight of the 460 barrel and compensator ALONE will slow things down considerably even if you change nothing else.

You should definitely give the compensated barrel a go if you can. From reading your posts here I seriously doubt you will have any issues getting it to run the way you want.
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2017, 11:32 PM
AbitNutz AbitNutz is offline
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I run 45 Super loads is my 45 Longslide and I made a bunch if changes.

1. 22 lb Wolff recoil spring
2. EGW firing pin stop
3. Titanium firing pin
4. Heavy firing pin spring
5. Shock/buff
6. 45 Super brass
7. Magnaported barrel/slide
8. Full-length spring guide rod

Mine is a 6" slide and with the Magnaported barrel/slide and the other mods it has really tamed the 45 super loads. I believe that a 5" could be made to almost as effective. You might consider magnaporting if you don't want to go with a comp. I really don't think either is required.

Parts 1-6 are what I consider essential. It all works for me. I shoot a constant diet of really hot 45 Super loads without issue.

Cast 185gr HG #68 HP coated with Hi-Tek
1350 fps through my chronograph

I DO run actual 45 Super brass from Starline. It's said to be stronger/thicker.

Last edited by AbitNutz; 05-30-2017 at 11:40 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:12 AM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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#3 and #4 are needed because of #1, right?

#2 came in the mail yesterday. I plan on fitting it today.

Midway has dies and Starline brass on sale this month and today's the 31st. I'll shop around tonight and get my order in to Midway or someplace cheaper if I find it.
Not sure if I want to order master spring sets now, or wait until my slide speed gets out of hand and I NEED springs. Probably might as well have them on hand when the need arises, I'm sure I'll need them sooner or later.

Then I need to order some boolits, probably start with #68 200gr LSWC, which should work fine for everything from paper punching to whitetail deer, right?
I never knew there was a hollow point version of that. Have you hunted with the SWCHP? Does it shed lead through the rib meat?

If I carry in black bear country for self defense, maybe some 240gr magnum rated XTP?

Last edited by Taxman; 05-31-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2017, 10:01 AM
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For the extra length involved, I'd rather have a 6" barrel than a comp.
The whole point of .45 Super is velocity.
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  #11  
Old 05-31-2017, 05:29 PM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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I fit the EGW firing pin stop today.

There was a tiny radius on the bottom corner of the FPS, I was expecting a square edge. I left it alone for now.

Was surprised that I needed a brass drift to remove the factory FPS, on the other Expert I owned it just fell out once the firing pin was pushed out of the way.
Gave the EGW part a file swipe on each side, test fit, gave it two more swipes...until it was slightly easier to hammer into the slot than the factory part. Took just a few minutes, maybe 3-4 file strokes on each side. EGW did a perfect job of making it oversized enough to require hand fitting without making it so big as to require a lot of work to fit.
Unfortunately, I didn't read the instructions first, or I would have given the left side a couple of strokes to smooth it out and then done all my fitting work on the right side. Now the firing pin hole in the FPS is off center, but it's only a few thousandths off and the firing pin can't contact the FPS.

Then I put the slide back on the gun, and the FPS hit the ejector. Took it out, and the bottom tab on the FPS was about 1/10" wider than the original, all on the ejector side of the tab. Went 25 file strokes at a time until I got close, then 5 strokes at a time. When it finally cleared the ejector, I gave it five more strokes to give it safe clearance, and compared it to the Para FPS. Virtually identical, might as well have just filed it to match the original instead of hand fitting it to the ejector.

Without the barrel or recoil spring, it's not hard to rack the slide, but it's a lot less easy than it was with the original FPS. Hammer strikes the FPS at the top of the firing pin hole, so I'll probably want to remove material from the top half of the FPS to fix that later. When the wind dies down, I'll do some accuracy testing with the GSG .22 kit, then I'll put the .45 slide back together and see how far the brass flies.

Last edited by Taxman; 05-31-2017 at 05:43 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-31-2017, 06:25 PM
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If the firing pin strike is above the firing pin - common - the beneficial effect will be reduced.

The Harrison Design FPS is already cut at an angle above the firing pin hole, but some people have decided that's not the correct approach, as it results in the slide having an even longer "running start" at the hammer.

A better idea, not my own, would be to have a small "shelf" at the bottom of the FPS, which could be adjusted to ensure that it contacted the base of the hammer at the same time the hammer is flush against the firing pin, so that the initial movement of the slide would be resisted by the base of the hammer.
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  #13  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:20 PM
DG1 DG1 is offline
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What was the part number for the FPStop you bought?


Great update BTW, Hope the rest of your project goes well!
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  #14  
Old 05-31-2017, 08:00 PM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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I got the blue oversize series 80, EGW 10365.
Cheapest I found was $16.10 shipped on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222294701816

At first I thought it was odd that the factory FPS was super tight, then I decided it didn't hurt anything unless I needed to replace the firing pin in the field AND had a spare pin handy, and the tight FPS makes absolutely sure the extractor isn't going to rotate.

Last edited by Taxman; 05-31-2017 at 08:02 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-01-2017, 04:23 PM
Taxman Taxman is offline
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Well, I shot it with the EGW FPS hitting the top of the hammer, so that the slide starts moving before the hammer has much leverage. Factory Para springs installed.

Shooting factory 230gr, the brass hits the ground 8-10' away, on a heading 110 to the right of the muzzle. I think that's about right, or where the gun should have been tossing the brass BEFORE I put the EGW stop in it. At least I can't put it down somebody's neck from 10' away now.

I've got to slow the slide down some more before I think of shooting high performance loads in it.

Next step is to remove some material from the FPS so that the top edge of the hammer doesn't hit it.
And order a Wolff mainspring set.
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