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  #76  
Old 08-12-2007, 03:03 PM
thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
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Rolling Thunder, the replacement spring (and all standard springs) will be longer than the Springfield spring, as Springfield uses a longer cap (if you lay all the parts out side by side you can see it, there's a pic on the first page of this thread).

Also, the hole alignment thing is normal for the 1911 (the mainspring should always have pressure on it).

As for the recoil spring thing, no, the spring is not "bunching up" or kinking in any way. The standard length guide rod, combined with the standard plug doesn't allow the spring to bunch/kink. Full length guide rods were originally used as a means to hang a compensator and/or to add extra weight on competition guns (depending on the class the shooter was competing in). There is no advantage to them, and the only real disadvantage is a slight complication to the disassembly process. Notice the emphasis on slight. I had one in my SW1911, but removed it some time ago. Both of my Springfield 1911s have the standard plug/guide rod.

Some people will say all sorts of things about the full length guide rods, good and bad. Really, the issue is more about esthetics than anything else. They just don't do anything for or against the operation of the 1911.

The shock buffs are another source of controversy, with some saying they are the greatest thing while others claim they are a useless waste of money that cause problems. I've never used them, so I cannot comment from personal experience.

Robert
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  #77  
Old 08-12-2007, 04:58 PM
Rolling Thunder Rolling Thunder is offline
 
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Thank you once again for all your helpful information. I know about the factory mainspring being shorter because of the cap, though I thank you for reiterating the point... I was referring to the actual recoil-spring (it wasn't a typo). The one I removed from the slide which came with the gun is significantly shorter than the Wilson 16lb. recoil-spring I replaced it with. Is this normal?

As for everything else, it went surprisingly easy... I thought I had done something wrong at first! The mainspring housing assembly that I chose to put on, ironically enough, I got about a year or two back from Sportsman's Guide (I don't deal with them too much anymore but back then they were amazing), fully-assembled (all parts included!) for about $30.00 I think at the time. I only replaced the mainspring as everything else looked good to me, and even the spring itself was probably brand-new but I wasn't taking any chances... I put a Wilson 23lb. mainspring on it but used all the rest of the parts that came with it. Either way it looks great on my G.I... looks basically exactly like the Springfield without the lock (same finish, groove-pattern, even the lanyard-loop). I couldn't believe it, but hey it works, so I'm not asking any questions.

That was about the only other real question I had for right now (about the recoil-spring issue mentioned above), at least before I finally take it out to test-fire it.
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  #78  
Old 09-03-2007, 12:46 AM
Rolling Thunder Rolling Thunder is offline
 
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Okay, since nobody has responded to my post in the month that it's been up here, I'll attempt to reiterate my question:

I replaced the stock recoil-spring on my G.I. with a Wilson #16 and it was significantly longer than the factory one I replaced, not to mention a helluva lot more difficult to stuff into the slide as a result. IS THIS NORMAL???
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  #79  
Old 09-03-2007, 01:34 AM
jb12string jb12string is offline
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I don't know much, but I am guessing its probably not right. I've always bought wolff springs and never had a problem
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  #80  
Old 09-03-2007, 10:23 AM
Docwills Docwills is offline
 
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Rt wolff springs has a thread in their faqs section of their website on length.

Have apeek at that, it explains it well.

"8. The spring I purchased is longer than the original spring so I don't think it will fit.

The free length of a spring is not the most important factor in determining whether a spring will fit. Many Wolff springs are longer than factory springs. This is normal and the spring will fit. A more important factor in determining whether a spring will fit is the number of coils in the spring times the diameter of the wire. For example, take 2 springs - one is 7 inches long and the other is 4 inches long. If both springs contain the same number of coils and use the same size wire, both springs will compress to the same solid lengths. The strengths will however be quite different. "


"
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  #81  
Old 09-04-2007, 12:42 AM
Survivor Survivor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
Okay, since nobody has responded to my post in the month that it's been up here, I'll attempt to reiterate my question:

I replaced the stock recoil-spring on my G.I. with a Wilson #16 and it was significantly longer than the factory one I replaced, not to mention a helluva lot more difficult to stuff into the slide as a result. IS THIS NORMAL???
Go here and it will explain some things for you. Wolff springs FAQ.

http://www.gunsprings.com/1ndex.html

Last edited by Survivor; 09-05-2007 at 11:08 AM.
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  #82  
Old 09-18-2007, 01:34 AM
Scottwingman Scottwingman is offline
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That's a really good quesiton. Browning was playing with the 1911 design nearly a decade before the (in)famous tests of 1906. Of course his original design didn't have the thumb safety. So did he add the thumb safety from a previous design theory that he had intentially left off the design submitted to the army? Or did he add it after the army requested such a safety?

Help Ya'll!!
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  #83  
Old 09-18-2007, 01:35 AM
Scottwingman Scottwingman is offline
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Sorry that was accidentally posted here.

My bad everyone.

Scott
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  #84  
Old 09-18-2007, 01:35 AM
Scottwingman Scottwingman is offline
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That's a really good quesiton. Browning was playing with the 1911 design nearly a decade before the (in)famous tests of 1906. Of course his original design didn't have the thumb safety. So did he add the thumb safety from a previous design theory that he had intentially left off the design submitted to the army? Or did he add it after the army requested such a safety?

Help Ya'll!!
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  #85  
Old 09-18-2007, 01:51 AM
Scottwingman Scottwingman is offline
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I give up...
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  #86  
Old 10-05-2007, 07:31 PM
gmac gmac is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911_Kid
just a quik summary list of parts from www.brownells.com

just a note, for just a couple of $ more you can get a Ed Brown 5pak of 19lb mainsprings !!

160-116-132
Mainspring Retainer Pin

160-116-130
Mainspring Cap Pin, Blue

160-116-135
Mainspring Cap

160-116-100
Mainspring, Blue

ed brown
087-045-919
Competition Mainspring 5 pak
I know this subject is getting beaten to death, but I have one other twist I wanted to run by everyone. I bought all of the parts listed above (MS cap, MS, MS retaining pin, and MS cap pin. I did not buy a new MS housing - just put new internals in existing MSH.

I replaced the internals with the new items from Brownells and found the hammer pull and trigger pull to be stiffer (rather than lighter as expected).
I then tried an experiment and used the new cap, retaining pin and original S.A. shorter spring rather than the colt mainspring which is longer. I then put in the cap pin to capture everything and replaced the MSH back on the gun. This set up seemed to yield the lightest hammer and trigger pull. The pistol seems to function fine and seems as though light strikes will not be a problem at all. Has anyone tried this combination before?? anyone anticipate any troubles I may not be aware of?

BTW, I tried the ILS lock with both of the set ups and the lock would turn, but would not stop the gun from releasing the hammer. however, the hammer just let go of its locked position and had no spring pressure. My gun is simply a range gun (PX9152L black stainless) and is not used for carry or any type of home defense. I however doubt the ILS lock would ever turn on it's own (I could be wrong)
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  #87  
Old 10-14-2007, 05:32 PM
army_eod army_eod is offline
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Well, I just ordered all the parts from Brownell's. All Wilson Combat parts.
Will let you all know how it goes. Also ordered a Wilson mag.

Here is what I ordered. Is this a complete list?

965-011-160 R16A MAINSPRING 1 $1.95 $1.50 $1.50
965-011-161 R16B MAINSPRING CAP BLUE 1 $1.95 $1.50 $1.50
965-011-163 R16C MAINSPRING PIN RETAINER BLUE 1 $2.00 $1.50 $1.50
965-011-165 R16D MAINSPRING CAP PIN BLUE 1 $1.95 $1.40 $1.40
965-011-170 R17 MAINSPRING HOUSING PIN BLUE 1 $1.95 $1.50 $1.50
965-000-035 92BV V-GRIP MAINSPRING HOUSING, BLUE 1 $41.95 $32.44 $32.44

Last edited by army_eod; 10-14-2007 at 07:17 PM.
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  #88  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:53 PM
1911_Kid 1911_Kid is offline
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was there some mention in these posts that someone suggested cutting the new main spring to same length as the original?
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  #89  
Old 11-07-2007, 04:49 PM
gunsablazin gunsablazin is offline
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Why replace the ILS?

I have two springfield 1911's, a Mil Spec and a SS Loaded I use for IDPA. My question is why do people replace these parts? Is it to get the gun back to original configuration or is it possible it might fail and render the gun inoperable? I have other 1911's without the ILS,on the Springfields I don't use it, but it does not seem to cause any problems. Just wanted to know if I'm missing something here.

Robin
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  #90  
Old 11-09-2007, 06:37 PM
1911_Kid 1911_Kid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsablazin
I have two springfield 1911's, a Mil Spec and a SS Loaded I use for IDPA. My question is why do people replace these parts? Is it to get the gun back to original configuration or is it possible it might fail and render the gun inoperable? I have other 1911's without the ILS,on the Springfields I don't use it, but it does not seem to cause any problems. Just wanted to know if I'm missing something here.

Robin
1. better feel (aka "personal preference")
2. if installed correctly the firearm will operate without failure (or at least as good as factory setup, etc)
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  #91  
Old 11-20-2007, 10:50 AM
nicknitro71 nicknitro71 is offline
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I removed mine and also replaced the main spring with a 18LBS. The difference on the trigger pull is amazing.
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  #92  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:23 PM
NonConformist NonConformist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsablazin
I have two springfield 1911's, a Mil Spec and a SS Loaded I use for IDPA. My question is why do people replace these parts? Is it to get the gun back to original configuration or is it possible it might fail and render the gun inoperable? I have other 1911's without the ILS,on the Springfields I don't use it, but it does not seem to cause any problems. Just wanted to know if I'm missing something here.

Robin
Thats why I am replacing mine. Ive been in enough tight spots to know that Murphy likes ****ing with people at the worst time, Im just taking away one more thing that could possibly go wrong.

I dont want the extra risk that there is a chance it could lock my gun up at the worst possible time however slim it may be
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  #93  
Old 12-18-2007, 10:56 AM
AKTom AKTom is offline
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Mainspring Cap Retainer Pin?

Yesterday, I finally got all the parts listed in the first post, so I decided to go ahead and switch out the MSH. However, when I reassembled the pistol, I realized that I had not put in the small Mainspring Cap Retainer Pin, because I used the little takedown tool that came with the Springfield to hold the Mainspring down while I was putting the MSH back in. My question is, at what part of the reassembly process was the pin supposed to go back in, and is it supposed to be holding the Mainspring Cap below it, or above it? After taking apart the ILS MSH, I have no idea what to do with this pin at all right now, and I can't seem to find instructions on putting the retainer pin in anywhere. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
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  #94  
Old 12-19-2007, 08:00 AM
Survivor Survivor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thearmedrebel
alexnormand is correct, you can use your stock internals, including the spring, but you'll have to use all of the parts. The one part that you should get is the mainspring cap retaining pin. It isn't absolutely necessary, but it will eliminate the need for the take-down tool when field stripping your pistol.

Robert
Here's an explanation from a previous post.
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  #95  
Old 12-19-2007, 01:17 PM
AKTom AKTom is offline
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Thanks Survivor. I guess I couldn't find it, because I wasn't really sure on the names of the individual parts, despite the well explained picture in the first post. I'll just keep it as it is, and just put the pin in next time I take the weapon apart.
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  #96  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:03 AM
Fred W. Fred W. is offline
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ILS on the EMP 9mm

Has anyone tried to remove the ILS in the mainspring housing with another MH on the new EMP 9mm? Sweet little IDPA piece and will be my CCW in Florida.
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  #97  
Old 01-31-2008, 07:54 PM
thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred W. View Post
Has anyone tried to remove the ILS in the mainspring housing with another MH on the new EMP 9mm? Sweet little IDPA piece and will be my CCW in Florida.
From what I understand, the EMP uses a standard Officers sides MSH. I don't have an EMP, but others have reported on this.

Robert
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  #98  
Old 04-05-2008, 12:34 AM
jeri534 jeri534 is offline
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Does the TRP come with ILS?
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  #99  
Old 07-08-2008, 12:08 PM
pdubois64 pdubois64 is offline
 
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If my main goal is to lighten up the trigger pull a bit should I use the 23lb MS as recommended at the beggining of this thread or go lighter as I see some have. I am going to use a 16lb recoil spring. Thanks.
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  #100  
Old 07-09-2008, 05:37 PM
thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdubois64 View Post
If my main goal is to lighten up the trigger pull a bit should I use the 23lb MS as recommended at the beggining of this thread or go lighter as I see some have. I am going to use a 16lb recoil spring. Thanks.
Yes, if you are trying ti "lighten" the trigger pull, go with a lighter main spring. 23lb is standard weight, though many replace these with 19lb springs without incident. All of my 1911s have 213lb springs from Wolff.

Robert
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