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  #1  
Old 10-11-2014, 05:45 PM
Jpickles078 Jpickles078 is offline
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Son of a....

I bought this colt .22 lr for $230 shipped and have loved shooting it. It's been accurate and a joy to shoot. But..... Had my colt .22 rimfire 1911 for two weeks and the safety broke turning it to the off position. Are you freaking kidding me!?
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Parts are in the mail now from manufacturer. Walther made the pistol under colts license and were eager to help. They jumped on shipping a new safety the minute I showed them my receipt. Anyone had a similar issue?
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:01 PM
19leben 19leben is offline
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Wow. Looks like pot metal.
Sorry that happened!
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:08 PM
The Earl o Sammich The Earl o Sammich is offline
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Really, cheap pot aluminum?

Could a real 1911 safety be made to fit?
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:07 PM
bamashooter bamashooter is offline
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I've had the same make/model for several months. Probably have around 2,500 or so rounds through it. Hasn't skipped a beat.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:28 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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I've seen many breakage issues with the various centerfire look-alike .22 pistols. Many of them are made to the same quality standards as your typical BB pistol.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:59 PM
JPhoenixX JPhoenixX is offline
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I would have to agree with dsk. They look nice but the parts are crap. My sig mosquito fell apart in my hands at the range. I took a shot and a spring hit me in the face, the frame cracked in half and pieces were falling out of the back. Sig had to replace the pistol because it couldn't be saved.
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:18 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpickles078 View Post
Are you freaking kidding me!?
Typical imported part....made like potato chips.
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  #8  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:23 PM
Independance Independance is offline
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How does the Browning downsized 1911 22 stack up in build quality???
I'm curious because it seems like a nice, inexpensive "fun gun".
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  #9  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:40 PM
Arkie Arkie is offline
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The lineage of these handguns hasn't been overly hidden if one looks just a little past the "Colt" rollmarks. Colt, GSG, and Sig? All made by a division of Sig named "Umarex". If you buy the cheap GSG version it's fairly easy to accept that at it's price point it may not be precision class armament.(still a hell of a lot better than Chiappa) Those who pay for the higher status symbol names seem to think the changed roll mark should magically make the same product better.

Bob
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  #10  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:43 PM
Arkie Arkie is offline
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They are supposed to have an 85% parts interchangeability with true government spec parts, maybe the safety's one of them.

Folks can ooh and aah the gimp sized Browning all they want, but with it's overall downsizing, not a single part will interchange, including holsters. No thanks.


Bob
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  #11  
Old 10-11-2014, 10:50 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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It seems these low-cost .22LR centerfire look-alikes are all the rage at the moment. Rimfire M4 carbines, 1911s, Berettas, Walthers, even an StG44 look-alike (which I admit looks prettty cool). The problem with all of them is the pot-metal contruction, resulting parts breakage, and lack of reliability. I'm more of the mind that even a .22 pistol or rifle needs to be made of quality materials, which is why I don't buy into the cheap look-alikes and prefer either a proper 1911 .22 conversion or a dedicated .22 like a Ruger Mark II. If I want a gun that looks like a Beretta 92 I'm buying a Beretta 92, and if I want to shoot rimfire through it I'll get a conversion unit.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2014, 11:12 PM
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Kruzr Kruzr is offline
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The part isn't a pot metal casting, it is a MIM made part. That is a good example of a MIM made part breaking early in it's life (see the mold popper marks.) When they break it is typically very early due to concentrated voids.

The reason the break looks like it does is metal fatigue. No matter if it's barstock or MIM made or cast or pot metal, it has to yield beyond its allowable stress before it breaks and that yield causes fatigue. With the voids concentrated, that allowable stress is lessened.

Last edited by Kruzr; 10-11-2014 at 11:52 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2014, 02:14 AM
dakota1911 dakota1911 is offline
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I have had a couple friends have problems with these. I got too interested over 22 conversion units for 1911s several years ago, and now have several like Marvel, Ciener, Kimber and even an older Colt Ace unit. Anyway I will confess I have not been looking very hard at these guys. I almost bought one of the Colts for around $400 I think but something else more interesting and expensive was talking to me. I know years ago I bought a cheap little Walther P22 as a small .22 pistol/toy and it has been great, so building a decent one at say a $400 for sale price should be very doable.
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  #14  
Old 10-12-2014, 06:48 AM
qwiksdraw qwiksdraw is offline
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This information may be if interest to those who want to learn:
http://mimaweb.org/About_MIM.htm


However, if you want to keep your opinion, don't waste your time.
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  #15  
Old 10-12-2014, 11:49 AM
skosh69 skosh69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruzr View Post
The part isn't a pot metal casting, it is a MIM made part. That is a good example of a MIM made part breaking early in it's life (see the mold popper marks.) When they break it is typically very early due to concentrated voids.

The reason the break looks like it does is metal fatigue. No matter if it's barstock or MIM made or cast or pot metal, it has to yield beyond its allowable stress before it breaks and that yield causes fatigue. With the voids concentrated, that allowable stress is lessened.
NOOOOOO.....now the MIM haters crowd will start chiming in
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  #16  
Old 10-12-2014, 12:10 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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Like it or not, almost all new guns use MIM parts. Even the hot new H&K VP9, Walther PPQ, and other new designs have MIM components. The era of machined steel parts is past us.
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Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value.
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2014, 11:54 AM
Gator89 Gator89 is offline
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I purchased an extended tacticool thumbsafety off ebay and installed on my Phony Pony Gold Cup, so yes you can install one of your choosing
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2014, 03:36 PM
Mt_hangglider Mt_hangglider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsk View Post
Like it or not, almost all new guns use MIM parts. Even the hot new H&K VP9, Walther PPQ, and other new designs have MIM components. The era of machined steel parts is past us.
Sadly this is true and one of the reasons I saved up and bought this:

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  #19  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:38 PM
Jpickles078 Jpickles078 is offline
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Son of a....

Parts came in and she's whole again! This new safety is FAR smoother. I didn't realize how stiff the old one was till this one came in. Also, I fixed it up with a shiny match trigger while it was apart

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Last edited by Jpickles078; 10-16-2014 at 11:43 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-17-2014, 03:44 AM
K-Wad K-Wad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkie View Post
The lineage of these handguns hasn't been overly hidden if one looks just a little past the "Colt" rollmarks. Colt, GSG, and Sig? All made by a division of Sig named "Umarex".

Bob
The Colt licensed products (22lr 1911's and AR's) are produced by Walther, who was purchased by Umarex (a company that originally made air pistols and blank guns) back in the early 90's.
The Sig and GSG are both built by "German Sports Guns", which is a company that specializes in inexpensive 22lr copies of classic military weapons (I really want one of their MP40's. )

The two companies are not related.
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  #21  
Old 10-17-2014, 06:04 AM
Bigblock1 Bigblock1 is offline
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I have the Colt Gold Cup Trophy 22 for about two years now. It's the main shooter at the range, grandkids love shooting it. Put anything thru it, usually needs to go to the car wash afterwards! No complaints here.
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  #22  
Old 10-17-2014, 08:08 AM
qwiksdraw qwiksdraw is offline
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Check if youe MIM part will stick to a magnet. It does? Then it must be steel.
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Last edited by qwiksdraw; 10-17-2014 at 01:54 PM.
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  #23  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:26 AM
magazineman magazineman is offline
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Colt has been doing this for decades. I have an Astra .22 short vest-pocket pistol. A nice Spanish gun (unfired) from the 1970's. Colt offered the same pistol as the "Cub"

I also just bought a FRONTIER Colt revolver from 1966. $200! Anyhow. the frame is aluminum & the rest of the gun is steel. It's similar to a Ruger Bearcat.

It has the vibe of an imported piece. I suspect it is European.
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  #24  
Old 10-17-2014, 12:20 PM
AVG AVG is offline
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I have had the Browning downsized 22 a very good gun also Sig 22's they all worked good. If you want a small 22 you can't beat a Sig P938-22. The browning was very good but to small for my big hands to work the grip safety. A large 22 that I use a Sig P229-22 and I also have a Sig P220-22.If you have Sig's take a look at the Xchange kits for them.
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