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  #1  
Old 02-12-2020, 10:35 AM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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M-Pro7 on Black Duty finish

FP-10 has been my goto gun oil for decades now. And I was pleased to see that DW specifically recommends it as a cleaner/lube. But since it will not always take off copper/lead fouling I recently switched from a hard solvent to M-Pro7 for my barrels, inside the slide, and around the muzzle after shooting.

Has anyone used M-Pro7 on their Black Duty finish or just had it transfer over to the frame and/or slide while cleaning? I'd rather not chance using something that is untried and find finish issues afterwards, on either the slide or the frame.
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  #2  
Old 02-12-2020, 12:18 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Please disregard. Had some time and did a little digging here. Found that there's a chance that MP7 can eat the varnish on the wood grips, though it seems to be safe on the slide finish.
I'll stick with the FP-10 and only use the MP7 inside the barrel if absolutely necessary, and then dry it off completely before lubing it and putting it back in the slide.

Besides, as Robert Duval might have said, I love the smell of FP-10 in the morning
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  #3  
Old 02-12-2020, 12:32 PM
Harrish Harrish is offline
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Use Kroil to clean out copper fouling in the barrel, and anywhere you like for that matter; it is safe for use on Duty Finish. It is NOT a lubricant, so use FP-10, M-Pro 7, or Synthetic Motor Oil.

Many of the industry 1911 folks recommend FP-10 or M-Pro 7, personally use Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil like Shell Rotella. They recommend industry products to support the industry, while they are good products, Synthetic Motor Oil is as good or better. It is designed to run at extremely hot temperatures and in very dirty environments (think Diesel engine),and a quart will last you a lifetime!

I have used them all for extended periods, my conclusion...the synthetic motor oil stays in place better than anything!
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  #4  
Old 02-12-2020, 12:48 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Thanks for the tips Harrish. I have a lot of FP-10 to go through before I start looking for another oil, otherwise I'd go for the Rotella now.

I've heard about Kroil in the past but have never tried it. I just recently switched from a heavy, smelly and toxic solvent to the MP7. I haven't been real impressed with its effectiveness on copper fouling (but then I don't soak my barrels in it). May give the Kroil a try if it's non-toxic and not smelly.
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  #5  
Old 02-12-2020, 05:55 PM
drail drail is offline
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You should remove the grips if there is any chance your solvent will get on or under them. And it will. Take them off. I would recommend that you just use a Mil spec CLP like Breakfree or G96. I have never seen any kind of finish damaged by them. You really don't need 3 or 4 different products.
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  #6  
Old 02-12-2020, 06:03 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Easy enough to use MP7 on the barrel only, FP-10 on the rest, and to keep the MP7 away from the rest of the gun. Thanks though
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2020, 06:06 PM
drail drail is offline
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Keep in mind that Breakfree CLP was invented so our military did not have to keep and lug around 3 different products. You can do the same. Mil spec CLP is all you need - I have used it for over 40 years on all of my guns. In the military it is used on small arms, machine guns, electric chain guns and Naval guns. It works or they would not use it.

Last edited by drail; 02-12-2020 at 06:09 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2020, 06:24 PM
Bradd D Bradd D is offline
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I can attest to needing to be careful what you use on your Duty Treat. This gun was sent to a reputable shop for some work and whatever solvent or cleaner they got on it ruined the finish. They paid to have it refinished by Dan Wesson.

As an aside, I stopped using solvents on handguns years ago.

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  #9  
Old 02-12-2020, 06:38 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drail View Post
Keep in mind that Breakfree CLP was invented so our military did not have to keep and lug around 3 different products. You can do the same. Mil spec CLP is all you need - I have used it for over 40 years on all of my guns. In the military it is used on small arms, machine guns, electric chain guns and Naval guns. It works or they would not use it.
I'm sure CLP works fine. However I'm not convinced the military is overly concerned with the finish of their weapons, so long as they are free of dirt and corrosion.

I read this, earlier today, from Keith_DW:
"Grease is great is theory. In reality, guns get dirty when shot. Has anyone noticed what happens to grease around dirt? It grabs it like a magnet. So what happens when you mix dirt and grease? It becomes a gritty paste, which is just like lapping compound. Would you lubricate with lapping compound?

Oil will also attract dirt but the dirt still has the ability to move around, rather than to be trapped.

Grease isn't bad. I have some looser autos that I have used it for. This gives the dirt more room to move and makes the slide feel tighter. However, for a tight 1911 I only recommend DW rail lube, FP-10 or Militec 1. There may be other good choices out there but these have been proven here.

Oils such as Rem oil, Hoppe's and the like, I only recommend for the surface and small moving parts.

Also, Beware of gun cleaners such as CLP that is not polymer safe. Though our Duty finish is not Polymer these "gun scrubbers" will damage the look of our Duty finish. Using oil as a cleaner is all you need. A little oil, nylon brush and elbow grease does wonders. Kroil, btw, is a great oil cleaner. It will even remove copper fouling from your barrel. Bench rest shooters have been using it for years.
", in Post #14 of this thread
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2020, 08:14 PM
DubfromGa DubfromGa is offline
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From the manual that came with my Valor commander:






I gave it a try and it's been really good.


Converting all my guns over to it.


The refillable oiler pen (far left) is super handy.













As the other guys stated....this stuff works great on barrels. Run a wet patch down it and let it soak while you are wiping down and oiling the rest of the gun with your favorite approved lube......then get back on the barrel.






Kroil is good stuff. Regular use in your barrels and you'll find it gets easier each time.



Kroil has a distinct smell....not bad....not too strong.

Weapon Shield, however, is very pleasant....especially when used while sipping morning coffee. It's almost cinnamon-like.
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2020, 08:52 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Thanks for the info. I'll continue with the MP7 until it's gone, only on the barrel. As I said FP-10 has long been my favorite, and I love the smell.
The Kroil is toxic and pretty harsh. I always clean my guns after every range trip and so they don't get a build up that is all that hard to get through. Next time out I'll just use more of the MP7 and maybe soak a couple of patches and push them into the barrel and leave them there to penetrate while I'm using FP-10 on the rest, then clean and lube the barrel last.
I appreciate the tips!
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2020, 07:34 AM
Chunker Chunker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drail View Post
Keep in mind that Breakfree CLP was invented so our military did not have to keep and lug around 3 different products. You can do the same. Mil spec CLP is all you need - I have used it for over 40 years on all of my guns. In the military it is used on small arms, machine guns, electric chain guns and Naval guns. It works or they would not use it.
I have to agree with you. Been using it for years and never harmed a finish, caused abnormal wear or caused a stoppage. Seems DW has a bias towards certain brands for one reason or another. Of course as always use what you like and like what you use...
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2020, 08:40 AM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Didn't intend for this to turn into a debate about which is best. Don't really have a bias. Just want make sure I don't cause an issue by using something the manufacturer does not recommend. I do appreciate the input, as I have other firearms that also need to be cleaned.
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2020, 10:31 AM
GunBugBit GunBugBit is offline
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Transmission fluid is great CLP. If you want non-toxic, Weapon Shield is the bomb.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2020, 08:52 PM
Kimbear Kimbear is offline
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DubfromGa: Excellent post with good information.

I have used Weapon Shield products and Kroil for years on a variety of guns including my PM9 and found them to be very effective. WS is the best lube that I have ever used, but I know that everyone has their favorite.
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  #16  
Old 02-14-2020, 07:49 PM
DubfromGa DubfromGa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimbear View Post
DubfromGa: Excellent post with good information.

I have used Weapon Shield products and Kroil for years on a variety of guns including my PM9 and found them to be very effective. WS is the best lube that I have ever used, but I know that everyone has their favorite.
Thank you.


I'll have to admit that I was aggravated when I bought my first Duty Finnish DW and had to begin using "special" lube and such with it. I also was concerned about using other holsters that I'd carried other guns in (not sure if there was any residual oil in the holster that would screw with the Duty finished gun.

That lasted about two range sessions when I saw how smooth that Duty finished gun was running. I tried it on other guns and they performed really well. It was a no-brainer to swap them all over to it.

It really is good stuff. The refillable oiler pen is worth it's weight in gold.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2020, 08:09 PM
liggett liggett is offline
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I've been using Hoppes #9 SYNTHETIC for years to clean Duty Treat DW's with zero ill effects on the finish and then lube with FP-10.
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2020, 09:07 PM
dwcooper dwcooper is online now
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Is it toxic? What does it smell like?
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2020, 09:50 AM
K38 K38 is offline
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FP-10 to lube, G96 to clean here. No problems.
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