How to install compensator/muzzle device without obvious spot for a wrench? - 1911Forum
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  #1  
Old 03-03-2019, 04:57 PM
CurlyShuffle CurlyShuffle is offline
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How to install compensator/muzzle device without obvious spot for a wrench?

Hello,

I somewhat recently purchased a 6.5 Creedmoor upper kit and was assembling it today. I have ran into a bit of an issue with installing the compensator. Up until this point, muzzle devices I have installed have always had an obvious spot (two flat points) to stick your wrench on in order to tighten it down. This particular compensator doesn't. Is there a specialized tool or a particular technique to get a fully round compensator on a barrel?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:21 PM
Striker2237 Striker2237 is online now
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A picture would be extremely helpful in this case
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:27 PM
mark2734 mark2734 is offline
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strap wrench

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alltrade...0008/203125064
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:39 PM
HarryO45 HarryO45 is offline
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Holes in brake/ comp... and a wooden dowel or soft metal
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:58 PM
lhawkins lhawkins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryO45 View Post
Holes in brake/ comp... and a wooden dowel or soft metal
This. I use aluminum or brass.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2019, 06:00 AM
M-Peltier M-Peltier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryO45 View Post
Holes in brake/ comp... and a wooden dowel or soft metal
Yup, this. I have always used a clean piece of hickory. I tried aluminum but it was so small it bent very easily and it would not tighten to my liking.
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2019, 07:44 AM
BHP BHP is offline
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I've used hi-temp Loctite and avoided putting any stress on the muzzle of a really accurate barrel. You end up with the benefit of a non-threaded barrel, but with a comp. You could use shims for alignment rather than a crush washer.
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2019, 09:36 AM
Striker2237 Striker2237 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryO45 View Post
Holes in brake/ comp... and a wooden dowel or soft metal
Was going to suggest this but I was unsure if possible with his comp.
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2019, 10:10 AM
Texas Guy Texas Guy is offline
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How to install compensator/muzzle device without obvious spot for a wrench?

Smooth jawed channel locks


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Last edited by Texas Guy; 03-04-2019 at 11:22 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2019, 12:08 PM
USMM guy USMM guy is online now
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How tight does it have to be?

I might just put it on as tight as I could by hand with blue locktight. I would think that this would work fine.
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2019, 11:07 PM
CurlyShuffle CurlyShuffle is offline
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Here's a similar example

Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker2237 View Post
A picture would be extremely helpful in this case
This ebay example looks similar to what was included in the kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-Creedmo...YAAOSw29Jb5M-a
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2019, 12:10 AM
USMM guy USMM guy is online now
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When all else fails.

Then the best thing to do is overthink it. A crush sleeve, you are kidding me right.
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2019, 09:14 AM
1911_Kid 1911_Kid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHP View Post
I've used hi-temp Loctite and avoided putting any stress on the muzzle of a really accurate barrel. You end up with the benefit of a non-threaded barrel, but with a comp. You could use shims for alignment rather than a crush washer.
I don't think they make one for muzzle temps. JB Weld Extreme Heat would be ok, but will be very permanent.


OP - Use a $2 strap wrench from HF. But the pic given in #11 is a brake w/ upper ports, so it really should be indexed. You might need some indexing shims, did it come with shims? Shims and the correct torque applied should suffice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by USMM guy View Post
I might just put it on as tight as I could by hand with blue locktight. I would think that this would work fine.
Not good
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Last edited by 1911_Kid; 03-05-2019 at 09:21 AM.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2019, 10:14 AM
Striker2237 Striker2237 is online now
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Okay, for that style you are going to want a brass rod to place through it. I would wrap the rod to avoid marring the ports, it needs to be indexed as well so a crush washer (for an AR) and shims will be needed. I always rockset my brakes on top of the crush washer to make sure they don't eject (has happened). I set the shims/washer up so that I have to turn the break 1/3-2/3 of a rotation with high resistance to come to index.

That has allowed all but one of my devices to stay on no matter how hot I get them or if a can is removed hot.
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2019, 10:16 AM
Striker2237 Striker2237 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMM guy View Post
I might just put it on as tight as I could by hand with blue locktight. I would think that this would work fine.
That would be loosen almost instantly on an A2, yet alone a directional comp.
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  #16  
Old 03-05-2019, 12:37 PM
USMM guy USMM guy is online now
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I had no idea that they had to be that tight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker2237 View Post
That would be loosen almost instantly on an A2, yet alone a directional comp.
But you mentioned a directional compensator. What if you had one that was designed to vent in such a fashion as to tighten the unit. Just curious?
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2019, 01:32 PM
Striker2237 Striker2237 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMM guy View Post
But you mentioned a directional compensator. What if you had one that was designed to vent in such a fashion as to tighten the unit. Just curious?
Unlikely to work even then, the vibration and heat will tend to make it still walk loose. Plus the gun will not recoil neutral anymore
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2019, 12:50 AM
dsf dsf is offline
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Speaking from experience, sticking a metal rod through the ports and twisting away can leave you with an impression on the port edges. Brass is good, steel - not so much.
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