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Which 44 Spl Short Barrel?

3K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  Alabama-Ohio 
#1 ·
I’m looking for input from folks who have a good knowledge of 44 Spl in a short barrel revolver. My ideal would be a Mod 696 but right now the budget won’t support that and they aren’t real available. So…if I want to get 850-900fps with a 240gr cast bullet out of a 2” or 2.5” barrel is it possible with either the Charter Arms 2.5” or Taurus 2”. I handload so I won’t be buying factory fodder. Just for the record I don’t like to push the limit on pressure either. Has anyone chronoed either of these two revolvers and what were you able to get velocity wise within reasonable pressure levels?
 
#2 ·
Is it possible? Maybe. I have a 696 currently, and have owned a couple of CA Bulldogs in the past. With the Bulldogs, I was happy to get a 240 grain bullet into the 700 FPS range. Both had 3" barrels.

I don't think it is reasonable to expect to get 850 + FPS with a 240 grain bullet out of a 2.5" barrel, with out excessive wear on the gun. My 696 gets 850 FPS with 200 grain bullets, (Blazer). I think this is pretty good.

Probably some one will come along and say I am wrong. That's OK, I don't mind.
 
#3 ·
Ruger makes the Lipsey's Spl, but the barrel is 4 5/8" and it's single action.

S&W 24/624 would be excellent, but they cost $700+.

44Spl is a caliber that costs bigger dollars if you want to launch big boolits fast.

I've heard hotrodding Charter Arms or Tarus isn't a good idea, but what do I know?
 
#4 ·
In my 696's I shoot standard loads. The price one pays to have an L framed .44 Spcl is the THIN forcing cone. Hotrod the loads and you risk splitting/cracking the FC. And currently even a -1 gun , previously fired, no box, etc (Minimal collector value) will run $600 or more. A no dash model, or complete gun w/box ...Add $200 or more.

I look at the 696's like I do J frame snubbies in .38 Spcl. Meant to be carried a lot...Shot very little. I know the 696's are a bit more robust, but if one wants a gun to digest thousands of rds, or especially wishes to use hotter loads, get an N frame 624/24.

As soon as you start going below 3" in barrel length, you are REALLY losing velocity in the big bores. I checked but couldn't find my 696 crono data. I do recall the losses were a bit surprising over my other .44 Specials.

FN in MT
 
#5 ·
I like the 44 Special round very much, and am a handloader. I own a 696 and feel comfortable shooting near max loads since it is such a well built piece. I also own an all steel Taurus snubby in 44 Special. I would not shoot my 696 loads in the Taurus for many reasons....besides PAIN!! I think that what you are wanting to do may be possible in a 3-4in bbl revolver of really good quality, but I, personally, would not attempt it in a "bargain brand". I am very fond of my body parts, even if they are old.
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
the charter arms bulldog .44spl is so aluring even with its design faults.

the two i had shot themselves out of timing within 200 rounds, their cyliber cranes or yokes were excessively loose, the stainless' cylinder when open would almost come off the yoke rod if you pull on it slightly. lock up was poor on both after 200 rounds because i was able to manually rotate the cylinder reverse of it movement because the cylinder stop is just a thin piece as are the cylinder stop notches and the stop wore one of its edges round.

a prime example of a good i dea executd poorly. though there are a lucky few who say theyve got a good one, i just havent seen any in person and the two i owned were lousy.

i wish somebody near me had one that i could shoot and examine and then if i deemed it worthy talk them out of it.
 
#12 ·
Take a look at the Ruger Alaskan in .44 Mag, which of course can also shoot .44 Special. It is built like a tank, and you will never have to worry about any .44 special load you can come up with.

The downside is that they are expensive...about $900 more or less new, but they are worth it.
 
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