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Loctite 101?

8K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  hattrick 
#1 ·
Hi, all.

I have been hearing people suggest using loctite for years, and all over this forum after I did a search. Yet, when I went to go to my local hardware store (ACE), they only had a loctite "super glue." I didn't see any RED/GREEN/BLUE choices or anything. I am looking for the blue loctite. should I be able to get it at say, Lowls, or Home Depot?

There seem to be so many choices, as seen on their website:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlocking-mechanical.shtml

I need this to:
1) Secure a roll pin
2) Lock some threads on a scope mount.

Which one should I use for each application?

Also, for sh*ts and giggles, this is what I bought at the store (right), and will be returning, and some other bonding agent that my father had around (left).

 
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#2 ·
Blue loctite for any threads that you may have to remove the bolts/screws later.
 
#9 ·
Wrong Aisle

Go back to Ace and this time instead of looking down the aisle that has all the glues and adhesives go look down the aisle that has the Automotive Supplies there you will find their selection of "Threadlockers" commonly referred to as Loctite as that is the most prevalent name brand but Permatex also makes threadlockers too. Red is to be avoided as it takes a lot of heat and force to break the bond, Blue is medium strength and is most used, Purple is low strength and is used on small weak screws that are common to break or strip but need a little extra retension.
 
#11 ·
My local ACE hardware store carries blue Loctite (#242), but I had to ask for help to find it. They display it in the paint section.

Blue and red are the two basic strengths. But I've had good results with two others for special applications:

Loctite green (#290) is thin, and can penetrate into parts that are already assembled.

Loctite purple (#222) is medium strength for small screws that need to occasionally be removed, such as grip screws. You can reinstall grips screws about six times before you need to reapply more Loctite, and I prefer it to rubber O-rings to secure the screws to the bushings.
 
#12 ·
Yep, I asked for help, but the girl there didn't seem to know what was up. I was sicking of going isle to isle for 20 minutes... I will look harder this time!

Thanks again, all.
--Ethan

Also, to answer the issue about the roll pin, it is used to secure the ejector on my S&W 1911SC-E. It seems that there wasn't one installed from the factory, or it came loose during field stripping (only 150 rounds through the pistol, and only stripped/cleaned twice!):
 
#14 ·
The idea of a roll pin is, you don't need anything to retain it. I would not want to loctite any pins personally, and if a new pin won't stay on it's own I'd be thinking about having S&W look at it?

But that's just me?

As far as your scope mounts/rings, blue loctite pr blue permatex will work great.
 
#16 ·
The pin may not have even been installed in the factory!

I will just see what they send me, and if it is a roll pin I won't loctight it, but if it is a regular plug pin (not sure the correct terminology for that), then I will see about loctiting it.

I didn't buy loctite, but instead, Permatex blue, because that is all they had.
 
#17 ·
The pin may not have even been installed in the factory!

I will just see what they send me, and if it is a roll pin I won't loctight it, but if it is a regular plug pin (not sure the correct terminology for that), then I will see about loctiting it.

I didn't buy loctite, but instead, Permatex blue, because that is all they had.



That's all I use, most stores in my area sell it, and it works just fine.
 
#18 ·
You DO NOT use "thread-locker" on roll pins, taper pins or any kind of pin; there is a reason it is called thread-locker and that is because it was designed to secure threads. They do make "retaining compounds" that are used to secure small small fitted machinery parts; in fact some extractors are only press fitted with retaining compound. One of my guns has a stuck roll pin and until I'm ready to deal with the pin the extractor has been fitted with a retaining compound but your not going to find this Loctite product at your corner Ace Hardware.

I'm going give a guess that the pin was over looked at the factory.
 
#19 ·
I've used red (271) Loctite for installing Glock front sights for years. Have had to remove a few. Never had to use heat; never broke a screw. However, for the OP's purposes, blue will certainly do the job.

I've also used green (642) Loctite sleeve retainer for attaching muzzle brakes to "during the ban" AR barrels. Got to heat it with a torch to remove it.
 
#20 ·
Blue will be just fine,hit the threads with brakeclean first to degrease and put a small drop on the screw.The ejector pin should be a pin,not a roll pin,and install it dry.There's nowhere for it to go and there really is no load on it,miniscule.If it happens to drop in the hole,put some green self wicking locktite on it and let it seep in and set up.
 
#22 ·
Locktite is interesting stuff. I did some research for another project. Locktite cures in the absence of air and in the presence of metal. Some metals activate it better than others. Stainless is one of the poorer ones. There is a activator for locktite. It helps it to set up better with the less active metals and also speeds up the curing process. It is a aerosal spray that you spray the parts with let dry and then assemble. Do a google search on loctitie activator and you'll find it.
 
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