1911Forum - View Single Post - Ruger SR1911 Review: Part II, the modifications...PICS!
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:19 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
First of all, thank you all for looking at my original thread on this pistol. It has been very enjoyable to review it and hear your feedback. I hope it has helped you in some way and I look forward to doing other reviews in the future.

The modifications:


- Corrected the guide rod to prevent it from hitting the barrel legs
- Corrected the mag catch to prevent it from hitting the mag follower
- Corrected the slide stop to prevent it from hitting rounds during feeding
- Corrected the frame feed ramp by widening, deepening and polishing
- Corrected the ejection port by lowering it to approx .410 from the bottom of the slide
- Corrected the ejector nose angle for consistent ejection
- Corrected the extractor for both tension and nose position
- Corrected the link slot in the frame for proper clearance
- Corrected the grip screw bushing that were protruding into the frame
- Corrected the breech face for smoother feeding
- Corrected the barrel throat and polished it
- Crowned the barrel
- Welded and re-cut the barrel hood for a tolerance of less than .001 to the breech face
- Cut the chamber to a depth of .905 for best accuracy and reliability
- Replaced the bushing with a match fit MGW stainless bushing (you need a wrench to remove it)

- I.D. of bushing is .58125 O.D. of barrel is .58075 Total tolerance is .0005"
- Cut the Marvel Disconnector slot cut in the slide for smoother function
- Replaced the Ti firing pin with a steel EGW part
- Replaced the 20lb recoil spring with an 18lb Wolf
- Replaced the mainspring with a 23lb Wolf
- Replaced the link with one correctly dimensioned for the barrel legs
- Blended rear of slide, ejector, extractor to match the frame
- Complete trigger job with short roll set at 4lbs 2oz
o Sear at .765 oal
o Hammer hooks at .018
o Disconnector at 1.3015

o Corrected trigger bow in frame
o Tightened MSH to frame
o Corrected sear spring
o Corrected hammer strut

There are a couple of additional things I thought about doing to this pistol that in my opinion would enhance it such as welding and re-cutting the frame rails to fit the slide, fitting a new Kart barrel, replacing the slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, fitting a new SS .220" radius grip safety and fitting a new SS stippled Aztec cut MSH. However, in keeping with the idea of the project, that is to keep it affordable to the regular person, I decided to forgo those things for now. The cosmetic stuff was just stuff I wanted to do personally.

Cosmetic work:

- Stippled rear of slide, ejector and extractor
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut top of slide
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut front strap of frame
- Removed all slide logos
- Removed Ruger Warning on frame dust cover
- Boarder cut top of frame
- Hand bevel and blend all edges of slide and frame
- Reblast frame, slide, bushing, plug and trigger

Fired 100 rounds of mixed loads and bullets with zero malfunctions as a final function test. Total round count to date before and after modifications is 325 with zero malfunctions.

As a final note, I have also come to the conclusion that the MSH is mim as are the sights from what I can tell. The MSH is VERY hard and all three parts have the same casting marks on them in various places as the other mim parts but I could be incorrect. Also, after checking with a different kind of cold blue I have determined that the MSH and grip safety appear to be carbon and not stainless as previously believed. One other note is that it appears that a .220" grip safety could be fit very nicely without having to weld anything onto the tangs of the frame.

Thank you for the excellent report. I am not a gunsmith. However, I take it from your report that since the original testing revealed no malfunctions, that the majority of the things listed are "adjustments" achieved through a few file strokes rather than "corrections" requiring serious modifications. Thus, my question here relates to the items NOT underlined.

My SR1911 has fired 500 flawless rounds, and until I read your report, could discern no need for the services of a gunsmith. However, I have a few questions:

Doesn't your replacement of the titanium firing pin with steel make the gun less likely to pass a drop test (or more likely to fire if dropped on its muzzle)?

What was the weight of the mainspring you removed from the pistol? (You said you replaced with a 23 pound spring.)

Assuming all of the work NOT underlined above were to be performed on my Ruger SR1911, what is the cost, not counting shipping, and how long would it take?

Thanks again for the excellent report! Very informative concerning what you found on your pistol. Good show!

Shawn McCarver
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