EGW slide stops are all I have used in 12+ years of hard IPSC/IDPA and 3-gun shooting. George makes great stuff and I will continue to use his stuff as much as I can.
His camera is 8mp, 4x zoom, that is purely just getting close to camera with the Macro on (most times with the smaller cameras if you zoom in too much it loses its focus point). If you have 5d and that's what it looks like make sure it is taking it in RAW format. I have a 5d and a 50d... and to be honest I like the 50d better.
We offered the O/S slide stop for 18 years. The pins were .200 +/- .0005
If you received a .198 please send it back and we will replace it.
The Machined from Bastock slide stops HD series are available in .200 and .203 diameter pins (mostly for older loose guns)
The old slide stop was always for 45's the arm reached in .200 from the inside face. Not sure the caliber on the guy that did not lock back but if it was a 9 / 40 or super in a single stack chances are the slide stop did not fully reach the follower.
The HD slide stops are available in std 45 with a reach in of .2 and a 9 mm wiht a .220 reach in.
One thing we did on the HD was when we sliced the slide stop to allow it to lock up we used a radius corner cutter so it is not a square inside corner cutter. On the bottom angle we came strait out for 2/3 of the distance and only the last 1/3 comes down on the angle. This adds material to the place the slide stops fail. 4140 as per the GI print and vacume heat treated.
I've seen the pictures of it and did a zoom in on it and it's well thought out. I've a habit of polishing the last serration of of any that are close and you've skipped the last serration altogether which I like very much.
"EGW is proud to offer a machined from solid steel thumb safety. We saw a need for a cleaner more solid design. Our thumb safeties are machined on our 4 axis CNC machine with improvements from the original design. These are offered in Carbon and stainless steel." from the EGW Website
George is at it again...that is awesome!!! thanks for the pic!
Thanks for the great info chuck!!! At the very least it will put to bed the constant bickering about Ed Brown stuff being ONLY forged materials. great pics too, very nice camera.
Where have I been? That's the first time I've seen that thumb safety! Looks like there is a pretty good bevel on the back side of the pad, too. That's something I like .
Thanks for pointing out the omission of the last serration log man. I've also had a thumb safety that had a last serration that was sharp which I wound up polishing. Another one I recontoured one time and had to do the same thing but it was my work that made it sharp.
This is just one of the incredibly informative threads generated by p'wrench. Others include his threads on How to and How NOT to install thumb safeties, and frame ramps. And as usual, other experts have joined to add their info as well. There are others old threads here of equally superb informative quality that go to core of matters of great general interest. I wish like heck they could be made stickies. Have tried, but "no joy."
I'd be really interested in a "Sticky" type How-To on the specifics of fitting a slide stop. I've looked at the books and done alot of slow adjustment trial fitting, but I'd really love to see the exact science of it. Some of those spaces are hard to mic. How do the professionals fit a slide stop?
the ONLY other internal metal part aside from the pin. :biglaugh: you know, the funky shaped lobe that interacts with the follower and locks the slide back.
Or in the case of a slide stop, the outcropping of the slide stop that sits to the inside of the slide that is not the pin. A portion of it is what is engaged by the follower of an empty magazine to push the slide stop upward to engage the slide .
You're not crazy! Post #45 was related to the sear and the action of the lobe of a thumb safety, that's why I posted what I did. It appears DevilDave1911 caught it and edited. Good job, DevilDave1911.
If anything is "sticky quality" it's this one. And, it oughta be in the "How To" forum as well since this is such a critical part to fit absolutely correctly. Also, when moved, the title should probably be changed to "Critical Info Re: Fitting Thumb Safety's & S80 Trigger Jobs" since critical things about the latter are also addressed in the same thread.
Best,
Jon
P.S.: To the pros like the 'wrench, et al. and "pro-staffers" like el log, THANK YOU FOR ALL YOU DO FOR US HERE! You may not have considered this but your participation here doesn't just help us learn more about our favorite passtime; it also helps keep us safe while we do it.
Either a Clyinder and Slide with mic's up at max .200 and is made from a forging. The second best I feel is EGW. which also is machined and mic's up to .2000 also.
I trust my life with these and they have been put in all my 1911's.
Vic
I tried the EGW stop and it didn't work. I got an Ed Brown and it didn't work either. I did find that there are different sized lobes on different stops, depending if they are specifically for .45 or for .38/9mm. You can gradually work the proportions of the bigger one down until it works better. This still didn't eliminate my mag problems. I finally ordered a #19-B stop from Fusion. This one worked perfectly. I ran my 5 Wilson mags through my pistol several times and no malfunctions. The problem seems to be fixed. Thanks to pistolwrench and the rest of you guys for some very valuable information.
I tried the EGW stop and it didn't work. I got an Ed Brown and it didn't work either. I did find that there are different sized lobes on different stops, depending if they are specifically for .45 or for .38/9mm. You can gradually work the proportions of the bigger one down until it works better. This still didn't eliminate my mag problems. I finally ordered a #19-B stop from Fusion. This one worked perfectly. I ran my 5 Wilson mags through my pistol several times and no malfunctions. The problem seems to be fixed. Thanks to pistolwrench and the rest of you guys for some very valuable information.
If you were having mag problems, why were you messing with the slide stop to fix it? That is, I could never get the slide to lock on Wilson mags, and found changing to a different brand of mag fixed the problem.
Fusion lists 2 different numbered slide stops. The 19-D has the larger lobe like the EGW and Ed Brown. The 19-B has the smaller lobe like the stop in my Briley Commander pistol. Who ever actually makes them, the 19-B stop seems to have cured my problems and I am a happy shooter for the time being. With a life time warranty and no apparent flaws that I can find, I think I'll keep using them until I find something I like better.
I had to tweek a slidestop and put some black marker on the grind.
Do i need to do a more thorough rust proofing of this part.
What is the least complicated and least expensive (not cheap) method for touching up un-seen areas.
I don't want to bake gunkote on a 5mm patch if i can spray rustoleum (for example)on it.
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