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The official gripmakers showcase thread

879K views 3K replies 532 participants last post by  1911adix 
#1 · (Edited)
Rules are now gone since some posters tended to ignore them anyway.

Go for it.. :)
 
#87 · (Edited)
I'm ready to throw my hat into the ring with a few pairs that I recently made.

The first set is stabilized Black Ash Burl:




The second pair is stabilized Box Elder Burl:




This last pair is a subdued Red Maple Burl, natural:




I want to take this opportunity to thank the Site Staff/Owner for having this thread here, it's been an inspiration for me to get cracking.
 
#88 · (Edited by Moderator)
What I did for spring break (1911 grips)

Got a whole week of spring break to relax and do things I enjoy, so I was pretty productive. All are finished with teak oil:

Bocote:









Leopardwood:







 
#109 ·
Punky is a term for wood that is rotting. The wood structure is no longer the normal density. The wood can be in various stages of decay with some parts being more decayed than other parts. You run into punky wood a lot more often when dealing with spalted woods. The blackline spalting is the result of a fungus and fungi are more likely to associate with decaying wood. As a general rule, the more spalting you see in a piece of the wood, the more advanced the decaying. That is why most wood like that has to be stabilized.
 
#110 ·
You're absolutely correct of course, but I'll add that once the wood is stabilized it tends to be more structurally sound than most non-stabilized wood. And as an added bonus, the stabilized wood is impervious to moisture, oils and salt; it also makes it unlikely to ever warp. In this situation it's a win-win.
 
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