1911Forum banner

Slide Stops.....cast, mim, barstock and forged. Pics!!!

83K views 115 replies 77 participants last post by  GlenS 
#1 · (Edited)
....
 
#71 ·
I saw the slidestops, they don't have my issue. mine was a sparepart i bought for my pistol from a competitor, it had a deep shoulder on the bottom, under
the lug, just needed to raise the stop a tad.
I just thought with so many people putting the logman improvised plunger
tickler on their SS, I would think the bare metal needed some covering.
I did see the one broken pin was on a thumb safety, looks like it fell out of a run away toyota.
 
#77 ·
Peening at Slide Stop Notch

New join and first post. Need help with my 1911. 4 month old high end, expensive, custom pistol. Been shooting at range weekly about 150 rounds per week. Went to shooting event 2 weeks ago. Course of fire 25 rds rapid fire. 5th mag, 4th round, pistol froze. I mean the slide would/could not be moved forward to lock or back to be locked open. The mag would not release. After using force (no tools) the mag came out and after removing the spring guide, recoil spring, barrel bushing, we were able to force the slide to line up with the disassembly notch, remove the slide stop and with great force remove the slide from the frame. There was a great deal of peening at the disassembly notch on the slide and some metal was "peened" out of the notch thereby not allowing the slide to move freely along the frame rails. Never have I seen anything like this. I could not get a response from the manufacturer and was forced to send it back for factory rework. I've intentionally not mentioned the make, because I want to understand the cause as opposed to generating comments concerning pistol makes/brands. Looking for some help.
 
#78 ·
Sounds like bullet bump while feeding on the slide stop, causing the slide stop notch to peen against the lug of the slide stop as it attempts to move out through the notch.
 
#79 ·
New to working on my own 1911's and not even yet a novice. I replaced the slide stop on my Kimber Pro Carry CDP II with the Ed Brown bullet proof, stainless. I found it would not lock back the slide on last round using multiple Wilson 47D's. One more experienced than I suggested it was probably not seating deep enough to engage the follower and that I needed to carefully file some metal off the back of the slide stop. After much fiddling, I found that the notch that rides up into the slide rail was too tight for the magazine spring to push it up (I could manually engage it but with some force). After careful filing on both insides of the notch, it runs 100% now and locks back the slide. I am slowly learning, but one thing for sure is that many 1911 parts require some careful fitting and attention to detail. After reading the one post about bullets bumping the slide stop, I will have to make sure everything is fitting and not causing damage to the slide.
 
#80 ·
This is a great series of opinions on slide stops, but now I am more confused now on which way to go.
I have a few guns but my first was a 1911 .45 Auto Colt Gold Cup 80 Series. I shot it for years but had problems with it, one of which was the Slide Stop breaking on me only after a year of shooting. It more than irritated me as this was Colt's top of the line. Anyway, I replaced it , and have sense replaced that replacement for an extended one for my small hands.
Well, after a number of years I decided I was a good enough shot to go with a serious upgrade and after some research bought a Les Baer. No problems with parts breaking but I did replace the slide stop with an Wilson extended version. So far it hasn't broke and has worked. But I began to think that maybe I should put the original Les Baer part back in simply because the original is Les Baer and probably has a better all around fit as well as better steel. Then going through various catalog retail gun stores I found that other brands talk about being indestructible or the "Hardest steel" and so forth.
So the question is this: What do you pro gunsmiths and / or serious knowledgeable and experienced 1911 aficionados think about what slide stop is the best choice?
Or is it simply a question of the top three or four brands with a little fitting here and there?
Or am I right about just sticking with the Les Baer slide stop that came with my pistol?
 
#82 · (Edited)
In response to errant info presented by KA on another thread:

Ed Brown 'Hardcore' slidestops. Partially machined investment castings. My choice for my full-house builds. Excellent quality.





Colt. Machined from a forging. Dimensionally excellent. I have seen more than a few of these break off the internal lobe. I do not use these on serious builds.



EGW bar-stock. Dimensionally excellent. As of yet, my experience with these is minimal.



Major manufacturer MIM. These two were from consecutive serial numbered pistols. I am sure the manufacturer would have gladly replaced them. Note the identical voids on the shafts and the MIM ejection pin marks.


In picture three ( I do injection molding for a living by the way-not MIM but its the same initial manufacturing process) what you described as voids look suspiciously like the gate marks ( the area or entrance from the runner to the part itself). Still in a bad place for function and could be done better. We always like to go from the thickest portion to the thinnest in order to get consistent solid fill.

Even though MIM has very viable uses for other products, I don't want it in my gun. It's simply not as strong although it "can" be dimensionally superior to cast products when done correctly.
Those are definitely sub-gate marks. A simple slightly handworked tabe gate could have eliminated that but it costs labor.
 
#92 ·
Major manufacturer MIM. These two were from consecutive serial numbered pistols. I am sure the manufacturer would have gladly replaced them. Note the identical voids on the shafts and the MIM ejection pin marks.

This slide stop looks like the one with my GSG 1911 and must be with the SIG re-brand. The shaft is slightly undersized. Any idea of the nominal shaft diameter for the standard 1911 slide stop?
 
#95 ·
10-8 Gen 2 slide stops?

I realize that this is a long running thread and I see nfranco has make 1 reference to the 10-8 SS, but does anyone else have experince with the 10-8 Generation 2 slide stops?
I am considering ordering a couple, 1 for my SA TRP and 1 for my SW1911, both in stainless.
 
#96 ·
The 10-8 Gen 2 is the heat! I used one on this recent build and it is not only excellent dimensionally, the pad is a great size and length for positive control and the the lobe is angled to make re-inserting into the frame easier, no more idiot scratching.

I will be using them again!
 
#99 ·
Question - what would be the most-recommended drop-in replacement slide stop ... Carry-gun use...
Granted I'm not a Gunsmith, nor have I ever played one on TV or lied about being one to get in a girls pants. Okay, so there was that one time but more to the point... I don't think there's any slide stop out there I'd consider a "drop in" part. Especially on a carry-piece.
 
#100 ·
'Drop-in' with the caveat of "much testing & confirmation of function to follow".

Reason I ask is that literally today - just hours before finding this thread - I replaced the slde stop on one of my guns with a colt stainless, and now I see that they apparently have a reputation for shorn lobes. Dropped-in today with no fitting or polishing, I then ran probably 150-200 rounds thru the gun and the new stop solved the slide-lock failures I'd been having; but if this brand tends to break, I'd like to find a better one, as this definitely is a defensive piece.
 
#103 · (Edited)
I own 2 new ( less then 500 rds each) Rock Island 1911's and they are functioning perfect but I am concerned about the slide stops ( MIM) anyone have breakage or opinions on investing $$ to upgrade certain parts like slide stops etc?...I have no problem putting $$ 100-150 into these guns to make them that much better. I also heard the brl links ( MIM) tend to fail around 2000-2500 rds, not just in RIA but several MIM parts in several 1911's. any help would be great, opinions from guys that have shot a ton of lead and have real results or from a smith, thanks! looks like E brown is the way to go.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top