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Chain saw stuff

10K views 89 replies 28 participants last post by  DaveVK 
#1 ·
Some of us use chain saws quite frequently for a variety of chores while others may own a chain saw for emergencies, like when fallen trees block streets and driveways, or entrances to homes or garages.

Assuming one knows how to safely operate a chainsaw, in an emergency situation just owning a chain saw, a can of 2 cycle gas, some bar oil and safety gear (eyes, ears, gloves etc...) is courting frustration.

Chain saws get dull with use and it is a good idea to know how to sharpen the chain, or at least have a spare chain and the knowledge to replace it when it's dull. In an urban environment there are many things out there that can dull a chain rather quickly and that's not going to help when you're trying to clear a post incident evacuation route.

Files with guides aren't expensive and are easy to use.
 
#5 ·
I bought a Stihl MSA200 electric setup last year with two batteries. The blade is only 14 inches but I've been using the heck out of it for firewood at camp. Two large batteries will fell, limb, and buck three 9-inch lodgepole. Plenty enough juice for my needs.

The .25 inch chains are only about $20.00, so I keep two new chains in the saw bag. I'll monkey around with sharpening them at home.
 
#6 ·
Chain saws require quite a bit of maintenance.

That is if you really are interested in safely producing large amounts of sawn wood. Spare chains, as in you can not have too many of them. You just have to have them. I cut multiple large trees into firewood on an annual basis. You will go through sharp chains almost on a daily basis depending on what you are cutting as well as how much of it you are cutting.

Green hardwood will eat up a good chain pretty quick, dead hardwood not so much. For me anything less than about eight inches in diameter is not even worth fooling with. I feed two wood stoves all winter long and I use quite a bit of wood. I started out with a Stihl 310 saw. Basically a Harry homeowner saw just right for someone that cuts a couple of trees a year for whatever reason.

But when I retired and began cutting a lot more wood. I quickly realized that I needed to upgrade. It became clear to me that I was doing more work than the saw. I bought a professional grade saw, a Stihl 362 to be exact and have never looked back. It is a professional grade saw in all respects. High compression, roller bearings, the whole works. I would not however recommend this saw to anyone as their first saw. A very high degree of respect for what this saw will do is required for any operator. It will cut your leg off before you even know it.

With that said I love my Stihl 362 and may even go to a Stihl 400 series saw if I ever feel the need to buy another one.

A couple of further points to be made. I got away from using Ethanol adulterated fuels years ago. They will just eat up these small engines in very short order. Ethanol free gas has been widely available in VA for a long time, and it has served me well. However I got some of the synthetic Tru fuel a couple of years ago to try and help out an especially recalcitrant weed whacker. And it was like a tune up in a bottle. I have been very pleased with this stuff despite its high cost. I have been using it more and more. Just sayin.
 
#7 ·
I have spent enough time around really good sawyers to know that it requires the proper safety gear and maintenance to be both safe and effective.

Chaps, gloves, helmets with face shields, hearing protection, are all essential.

Keeping chains sharp is essential.

Having a good spotter is essential.

Knowing what you are doing, and your limitations is essential.

As a result, I leave those duties to folks much more skilled than I.
 
#8 ·
Truer words were never spoken!

Knowing what you are doing, and your limitations is essential.

As a result, I leave those duties to folks much more skilled than I.
A lot of talk has gone on here of late concerning the red flag laws. Well as funny as it may sound. I actually had to take away my fathers McCullough Chipmunk chainsaw from him some years ago. I was visiting him and my mother some years ago and a small tree in their yard went down. Well after he determined that Paul Bunyan had nothing on him, he decided to attack that tree with that less than optimal chainsaw even for hobby grade. Probably a good thing. It was not pretty watching this octogenarian working as hard as he could to injure himself. Fortunately he was frustrated in his efforts. That saw went away shortly afterwards.

You need the right tool for the job. And you need to know how to operate it safely. Nuff said!
 
#10 ·
Bow saws do in fact work well with a fresh blade.



Just make certain to have plenty of calories for the engine.
 
#11 ·
1) As stated above, ethanol-free gas, most definitely. For all your stuff at home. Mowers, weed eaters, chain saws.

2) Chain saws don't have blades. They have bars and chains. (And before anyone takes me to task for the correction, everything has a proper term. Learn it and use it if you want to sound like you know what you're talking about. :) )
 
#13 ·
If you are really determined to cut a lot of wood.

By way of using Norwegian steam. You have to get yourself one of these. They will outperform any bow saw out there. If you know how to use them.


Can not seem to find the picture of two of mine that I was looking for but they are the kind of saws that are sold by this outfit.

https://crosscutsaw.com/
 
#14 ·
My thoughts, if you own a chainsaw you should have the knowledge and tools available to resharpen a chain. I have and use the Dremel type electric sharpener and the correct hand files. I have been known to file a chain during a fuel break.
USMM - I’m running a Stihl 361 since Katrina and pretty happy with it
 
#15 ·
For most urban dwellers, chainsaws are of primary importance for clearing windfall blocking streets, drives, or threatening homes/property.
With my bad back I've found a Stihl MS-250, for me, the best power to weight ratio for occasional work felling and limbing and certainly up to snuff for windfall and storm damage. Our local government banned fires so I don't cut wood any more unless it camping.
Good fuel, maintenence, and sharp chain(s)make it what I consider to be an important piece of kit.
 
#18 ·
When it comes to cutting wood.

Saws are certainly the go to tool. You need to know how to maintain them, as well as use them safely.
 

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#22 ·
As stated earlier, it is good to have options.



But generally speaking the Stihl is the first choice, calamity or other wise. Plenty of sharp chains and fuel always on hand. Just picked up another couple of gallons of bar oil the other day.
 
#23 ·
I'm not saying that you shouldn't be prepared, but in every recent major storm that I've seen here, emergency personnel are very well equipped along these lines. Local fire departments, power company, etc.
If there are trees down that are anywhere involved with the overhead lines, which is probably the most common scenario, the best course of action is to stay completely away from them.
L.
 
#27 ·
Last year's Hurricane Michael dropped trees across our road in 4 places. Some of the tree falls covered 150 feet or more of the road. We were blocked in for over a week and without power for 11 days. Fortunately I had a generator, plenty of fuel, a 4 wheel drive to go overland/across fields/through the woods to get out to buy more fuel when/if needed, …. and a chain saw. It came in very handy. We had plenty of food and the generator kept the refrigerator and freezer running so we only lost a couple gallons of ice cream. I have steadily been revising/rebuilding my disaster plan and kit to fit our needs. An additional chain saw, tune up items, and spare parts are on the list.
 
#28 ·
My Stihl failed to start today. First time in 15 years. It will be at the dealer/hospital tomorrow. I knew when it did not start ..... it was no going to start. It’ll be back on line by weeks end. I figure it deserves a spa day at the dealer, it has bailed out myself and many neighbors for a long time.
 
#29 ·
My Stihl failed to start today. First time in 15 years. It will be at the dealer/hospital tomorrow. I knew when it did not start ..... it was no going to start …
Yep. An often overlooked part of preparedness is doing regular maintenance on your tools that will be critical to your recovery effort. I have been negligent in the past. All part of my personal disaster plan checklist now. At my age I live by checklists. Part of that stems from my military background, the rest from my inability to concentrate (attraction to whatevershiny object that is currently within my view).
 
#31 ·
Fortunately (or unfortunately) my saw is used more than monthly year round. The fuel is less than a week old and running in other Stihl tools. Running it dry is a good policy if you know it is going dormant for awhile. I have the luxury of a burn pile to dump mine if a project is finished....that just doesn’t seem to occur lately. I am trying something new. If you use a chainsaw case, you know it accumulates oil in the bottom. Instead of using old towels I am giving disposable diapers a try to line the case bottom when my saw comes back on line. Tune in later.
 
#37 ·
Me two



The last time that I checked I had ten sharpened chains for the 362 on hand including several that are brand new. Six chains for the 310, And three for the pole saw. Plenty of fuel is always on hand as well as bar and chain oil.
 
#38 ·
I have always had bad luck with chainsaws. Here in the subtropic part of the country we have tons of soft wood trees and shrubs like Brazilian peppers and ficus trees. The problem is they almost always clog the chain works. The pulp mixes with the bar oil and just makes it a mess. I often have to carry Allen keys, nut drivers and screw drivers with me when I am out clearing brush just to keep the saw going.

Anyone else have this problem? Solution?
 
#41 ·
What benefit does the added Kerosene give you?



The Stihl saws are adjustable for tension so chain stretch is not an issue for me.
 
#43 ·
Sharpening a saw is no different than sharpening a knife. Learn how to do it by hand without the non-essential doodads, and you'll always have that skill. It's far from hard. A high-quality proper size round file, file handle, and a pair of gloves (or can of Band-Aids), and you are set. Pay attention to maintain the factory angle, count your strokes, same number on each tooth. Don't drag the file backwards, lift it and make the next forward pass. Tap the end of it on the bench briskly every so often. Replace it when it's worn out. After you've sharpened a chain multiple times, look at it closely. Are the teeth on the right longer than the ones on the left (or vice-versa)? Pretty easy to let happen, it's easier to bear down on one side, and the teeth get shorter. Pay more attention in the future, maintain the same pressure on each side. The saw won't cut straight if the teeth aren't the same length on the right and left side.
A smaller saw, like my MS260, can be sharpened in 5-10 minutes, longer bar, 15 minutes.
It's worth taking the time to learn how to do this yourself, it's not difficult at all. One thing I left out, if you have a bench vise handy, by all means, clamp the bar in it, makes everything twice as easy. If not, still not difficult at all.
L.
 
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