Question about Barrel hood fit method.

[rrabullseye]

One of good things about living around so many good gunsmiths is that you can ask for and get different opinions on many things. One question I asked a few is how to properly fit a barrel hood to the slide. I've received 2 different answers:

1) The length of the barrel hood should be long enough to create an almost crush fit between the front of the first ( rear most ) barrel lug and rear of the hood, regardless of whether the gun is in battery or disassembled on a bench.

2) The length of the barrel hood should be set so that when the gun is assembled and in battery, there should be a .001 gap between rear of the barrel hood and the slide.

Which is correct / better / more accurate / more durable, etc?

I've also heard varying opinions on how much clearance should be on either side of the barrel hood while in battery. I've heard everything from .001 to " it doesn't matter as long as the barrel feet are cut correctly." Any opinions would be appreciated.


I'm slowly acquiring parts and tools to build my first from scratch 1911. It useage will be for bullseye competetion.



Thanks for any and all help


Erich

[chuckshoun]

Consider the cost trade-off versus your shooting ability at 50 yd SF and 25 yd rapid and timed fire. It takes one heck of a bunch of bucks to make a pistol that will win any competitions. I wish you well on your venture, and hope things work out OK.

[rrabullseye]

Originally Posted by chuckshoun

Consider the cost trade-off versus your shooting ability at 50 yd SF and 25 yd rapid and timed fire. It takes one heck of a bunch of bucks to make a pistol that will win any competitions. I wish you well on your venture, and hope things work out OK.

Thanks for your well wishes. I can generally shoot Expert, with my highest score being 825 or about a 9.2 average.

I shoot a Rock River Bullseye Wadcutter and an old Springfield with a Marvel .22 conversion on it. This particular gun is going to be my new Hardball gun. I've have nothing but time and have gathered some good parts for it: Baer Barrel, Wilson Sear, Brown Bushing, Rock river Slide, Bomar sights. etc..

[clevus]

I would try to duplicate the barrel fit in the RRA. We fit the barrel the same way in a ball gun as a wad. It just takes a whole lot more work and very good ammo to make a ball gun shoot well.

[Bob Brown]

I agree with Clevus. The RR guns are hard to beat.
For general info: I usually fit the end of the hood to just a sliding fit to the breech and fit the sides to just touch and mark when checking fit. Current thinking is that it doesn't matter, and you can leave .003 in all 3 places if you want, as long as the top lug is fit right and the slide stop is fit right to the bottom lugs. Frankly, I've tried it both ways recently and I have to admit, it doesn't seem to matter. And all these years I've been snug-fitting that hood...
So, I still fit the end to a light touch and leave just a little light on the sides. And I do use a 4-point lockup on the top locking lug.

Bob

[Ship A'Hoy]

I just fit a KART match barrel on my 1911 and here is what the instructions say; "File the the end of the hood to match the breechface (some aren't square) until the barrel can be moved in and out of lockup position without force. A clearance of .001" to .002" is ideal. The feeler guage should not go between the hood and the breechface, but it is important that the barrel can be moved in and out of lockup position without sticking"

The breechface on my Colt wasn't square which made it a little more difficult, but what a great learning experience. BTW, I never checked these measurements, I just fit it by feel and fit the breechface with a light touch and just a little light on the sides.

[rrabullseye]

Thanks for the input. I'll take my RRA apart and see how they fit the barrel.

Erich

[snokid]

you know I have never measured the gap...

I perfer the feel method....

it should be smooth, not sloppy....

sno

[blindhogg]

<<<also heard varying opinions on how much clearance should be on either side of the barrel hood while in battery. I've heard everything from .001 to " it doesn't matter as long as the barrel feet are cut correctly." Any opinions would be appreciated. >>>

Ask this question to many smiths and you will get many answers. I know of some who beleive that .001-.003 is acceptable and it probably is. I do agree that fitting the barrels lower lugs is very important.
But since you are asking I fit my barrels hoods TIGHT and I will just leave it at that.
Good luck on your buildup and I hope it works well for you.
Chris

[Hunter Customs]

The above 7/8 inch group was shot from a Kimber that I fit a new barrel in. The first time I heard the term "hardfit" was in 1969 when my Mentor was teaching me how to fit a barrel, that's the way the barrel in the gun used to shoot this test target was fit.
As for the hood area he believed the same as Bob and Chris that the end and sides of the hood should be a snug fit with light drag on the end of the hood.
I believe one thing that's most often overlooked when fitting a barrel is measuring the lugs in the slide. I check all mine with a height guage to make sure they are in spec.
I've seen some slides the lugs are so far out of spec it would be hard to get a good barrel fit and the gun would be way out of time.
Regards
Bob Hunter
(816) 675-2340
www.huntercustoms.com

[Sully2]

Originally Posted by Hunter Customs

Bob: Adjust those sights and get that group over and down about an inch each way and SHIP IT!... I'll send ya my name and addy...
Good group man...GOOD group !

[Hunter Customs]

Sully,
The sights are adjusted, the guns boxed ready to ship, I did not see any mention of the dollars.

The gentleman that owns this gun shoots both IDPA and USPSA/IPSC L10, the last match I saw him at there was no way he would part with the gun, I believe he's happy.
Regards
Bob Hunter
(816) 675-2340
www.huntercustoms.com