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  #1  
Old 12-04-2003, 03:52 PM
KellyRowe KellyRowe is offline
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Slide Stop Plunger PITA




Any trick to getting the slide stop past the slide stop plunger? On every one of my 1911's this always turns out to be a battle when reassembling a 1911.
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2003, 08:10 PM
Jim V Jim V is offline
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Thin bladed screwdriver to pusth it back a wee bit
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2003, 09:19 PM
shane45-1911 shane45-1911 is offline
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Or a Q-tip with the cotton removed. Lay the stick flat against the frame (parallel to the barrel) and push the plunger in. Push the slide stop up and in, then pull out the stick.
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:51 PM
Jim Keenan Jim Keenan is offline
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You should not need those "tricks". If you do, the gun is not made right.

This should work. With the recoil spring tension relieved, draw the slide back to the point where the slide stop pin can be inserted through the link. Push in the slide stop pin, but don't let the slide stop touch the frame. Then line the disassembly notch in the slide up with the slide stop hole in the frame. Move the slide stop in and up to where its top rear is touching the slide stop plunger. Press the slide stop up and in. If you are careful, you can do this without marking the frame outside the are that the slide stop covers.

That is all there should be to it. No screwdrivers, Q-tips, big hammers, or cutting torches. If it doesn't work, either the slide stop or the plunger is out of spec and needs work or replacement.

Jim
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2003, 10:07 PM
Shadowblade Shadowblade is offline
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I use a cutting torch myself....


I have one that goes in easily and two that don't. Usually pushing up and in as Jim mentioned works - though it take a lot of force to do it.

I've considered shaving the slide stop where it contacts the plunger or cutting the plunger spring since on those models the thumb safety is also a bit stiff... Is that a bad idea?
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2003, 08:10 AM
shane45-1911 shane45-1911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jim Keenan
You should not need those "tricks". If you do, the gun is not made right.

Jim, aren't you are putting undue pressure on the plunger and plunger tube when you do this?

There is nothing wrong with a pistol that needs you to depress the plunger to facilitate easier installation of the slide stop.

If you force anything hard enough, it will usually go back together. That doesn't mean that's the right way to do it however.

I agree however, that a 1911 with proper plunger tube geometry and plunger spring tension will not require any great force to seat the slide stop with your method.


Last edited by shane45-1911; 12-05-2003 at 01:50 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2003, 02:22 PM
Jim Keenan Jim Keenan is offline
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Hi, Shane,

"Jim, aren't you are putting undue pressure on the plunger and plunger tube when you do this?"

No, you are not. There is (or should be) a 40 degree angle cut on the back of the slide stop specifically to depress the plunger and allow the stop to be inserted. There is also a step in the spring tube and a matching one on the plunger to allow the plunger to protrude only so far, so it does not go past the angled cut on the stop. If everything is in spec, the stop should go in with only moderate thumb pressure and without marring the gun.

"There is nothing wrong with a pistol that needs you to depress the plunger to facilitate easier installation of the slide stop."

I disagree. Something is out of spec if tools or excessive force are needed.

As a military armorer and civilian gunsmith, as well as a hobbyist, I have inserted slide stops thousands of times with no tool. Anyone who wants can check out the procedure I posted with a GI or Colt gun. I specify those only because some clones are so far out of spec that tools have to be used.

Hi, Shadowblade,

Take a close look at those guns, and I think you will see a difference someplace. On the guns that the stop can't be easily inserted, the difference will be either in the slide stop itself or in the amount of plunger protrusion. One or both will be out of spec.

Jim
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2003, 04:33 PM
Critter Critter is offline
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It sounds like possibly the end of the plunger tube is crushed or deformed. Those are harsh/big words for something that may only be ever so slightly out of spec, but I've seen it happen. Brownell's carries a couple of plunger tube reamers. It sounds like you may need the smaller of the two, p/n 080-771-001 , to true up the hole. One way to check it is to remove the thumb safety, then the plungers and the spring. Check to see if the front plunger even slighty binds in the plunger tube at the end that sticks out. If it binds in the larger hole, you need to get the other one, 080-771-002 , or buy the set for 15.00 080-771-000, which is the best deal. I think they also have another tool for this, but I don't have my catalog with me right now.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2003, 07:39 PM
creepyrat creepyrat is offline
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possibly a kinked spring?
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2003, 08:44 PM
Jim Watson Jim Watson is offline
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The spring is SUPPOSED to be kinked, to keep the spring and plungers in the tube when you remove the thumb safety.
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2003, 10:38 PM
Bob Brown Bob Brown is offline
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Jim Keenan's right. Either the slide stop lug or the plunger is out of spec. A little shaping and polishing will remedy it so that it works like it should...without undue pressure.

Bob
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2003, 11:23 PM
creepyrat creepyrat is offline
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my bad, i didnt know that it was suposed to be kinked i just pulled mine apart for the first time a few days ago and havnt figured it all out yet.
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  #13  
Old 12-06-2003, 06:14 AM
KellyRowe KellyRowe is offline
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Interesting. I have 4 Springers, and they all behave the same. You need a tool of some sort to depress the plunger to get the slide stop in place. Maybe that's "just the way it is" with Springfield. The plunger isn't binding. Maybe some extra lube of some sort will help.

Quoting from Wilson Combat 1911 Auto Maintenance Manual, "On some pistols, you have to depress the plunger with a punch before you can install the slide stop."

Answered my own question.

Last edited by KellyRowe; 12-06-2003 at 06:37 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-06-2003, 10:38 AM
Shadowblade Shadowblade is offline
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Well, I filed down the area on the slide stop that contacts the plunger during reassembly. Didn't take off much at all, just smoothed it out. MUCH BETTER!!! No more tools for slide stop reassembly for me.
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2004, 10:53 AM
Billmanweh Billmanweh is offline
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I just picked up a Kimber that I seem to be having the reverse problem with. That is, when I'm removing the slide stop, the plunger tube pops into the little gap. Is there some trick to removing a slide stop when you've got a pesky plunger tube?
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