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  #1  
Old 08-14-2012, 01:54 PM
bullet1 bullet1 is offline
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Armor Tuff VS Stainless




Well just wanted to know what you guys think about the AT finish vs the stainless I've got a CQB on order due the first of the year, I ordered it in AT but now re-thinking that maybe I should go with the stainless whitch one do you like the best and why? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2012, 02:51 PM
wetsum3 wetsum3 is offline
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I would choose purely based on cosmetics. Which appeals more to your tastes? Armor tuff is a little better since it's a protective coating, but I don't think youll have any issue maintaining a stainless gun either. All come down to appearence. I'd do stainless.
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:06 PM
bullet1 bullet1 is offline
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well I thinking that way too I just got a new Ed Brown EC in a bead blast stainless and it sure looks nice.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:16 PM
jordanl jordanl is offline
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At
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:38 PM
Apocalypsemao Apocalypsemao is offline
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CC: Armor Tuff
Range: Stainless
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  #6  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:44 PM
paladin6 paladin6 is offline
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If you are going to use the pistol, I use mine for USPSA and IDPA, two matches per week. The Kydex holster, will wear polished streaks down the top of the slide and score the AT coating in the same place. I am more comfortable with the two shinny streaks down the top of the slide and opposed to the wear to bare metal patches that will come with continued competitive use of the pistol. If it is not going to be used in competition, the AT really looks good but I prefer the stainless.
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:00 PM
bullet1 bullet1 is offline
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It will be a range gun only, the only time I would holster it would be in hunting season.
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  #8  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:12 PM
JesseGPresley JesseGPresley is offline
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Mine is AT over stainless.
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:52 PM
jordanl jordanl is offline
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I have a couple purrty guns with an AT ordered. I can't wait to have an ATed gun again so I don't have to carry it around like it's a dozen eggs (even though blue is tougher than we give credit but it will scratch and/or rust). Just a gun that is tough and you can lay it on a tailgate or SOMETHING besides a little gray cloth. But with that said a stainless sure is SAWEET. Black starburst or ivory on stainless is about as good as it gets.

I think when it comes to a finish while it's interesting and fun to see what others think and buy, it's really all up to the one putting out the green. In my humble opinion everybody needs an AT finished gun then you can branch out from there and go purrty. Not to say an AT finished gun isn't a great looking gun because it is.
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:34 PM
.45_ACP .45_ACP is offline
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Ask yourself this question: Do you want a black gun or a silver gun? There's your answer.
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:40 PM
JLSO5 JLSO5 is offline
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I bought a S/S Wilson CQBE 9 from George last month and am thinking of changing the 2 Turnbull blue guns I have on order to it. Maybe not but it sure looks good.
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  #12  
Old 08-14-2012, 06:22 PM
wetsum3 wetsum3 is offline
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Sometimes I think the blued and Armor-tuff guns get too much credit. Wilson makes a beautiful stainless gun, for sure.
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2012, 06:41 PM
SCS1911 SCS1911 is offline
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I like them all, but lean more towards stainless.
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  #14  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:27 PM
Gamecockgangsta Gamecockgangsta is offline
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I love both "black" and stainless guns, but if you don't have a black 1911 yet, I would go with the AT so that you could have an extra nightstand option that won't glare at night.

But I think through things a bit differently. If you're going for pure appearance, stainless is certainly tough to beat...
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  #15  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:41 PM
rafa1 rafa1 is offline
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hope this will help
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  #16  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:00 PM
derby dude derby dude is offline
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How about two tone?

AT slide and stainless frame.
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  #17  
Old 08-15-2012, 08:54 AM
Gamecockgangsta Gamecockgangsta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derby dude View Post
How about two tone?

AT slide and stainless frame.
I might rather go reverse bc the AT on the frame would protect it from sweaty hands better during outdoor range sessions, etc. But personally I'm not the world's biggest fan of 2-tone.
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  #18  
Old 08-15-2012, 09:31 AM
jordanl jordanl is offline
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Get you an AT all blacked out with black starburst knight rider looking badaaa 5 inch that you can shoot the heck out of get dirty and enjoy (bedside table, bad weather, anywhere anytime) AND THEN get you a compact stainless with ivories (because I pppppppprrrrromise you you will end up with at least two WCs) and then you are set for life. Until # 3 then you're on your own. Maybe a little bluuuuueeeee on # 3 ya never know.
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  #19  
Old 08-15-2012, 12:07 PM
Hardbawl Hardbawl is offline
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Had the same dilemma back in 2010. I went with AT because the pistol [CQB Elite Compact] was ordered for every day carry. A dark pistol conceals easier than a bright one. What is the purpose for your pistol? That will answer your question.

At Wilson Combat's price point, I can't afford NOT to carry it. After 2 solid years in an El Paso holster for 12 hours a day it is still 99+% AT covered and shows no signs of rust. It litterally looks as good as new unless you look close at the front edges of the slide where it meets the holster upon entry.

If your gun is going to be a working gun, you made the right choice with the AT. If you get some wear, Wilson Combat can re paint it for you for a small [for WC] fee. Stainless gets marks too, and, [perish the thought] rust.
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:27 AM
Rick McC. Rick McC. is offline
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A/T Wilson (seven years old)



Stainless/alloy framed CeraKoted Colt (new last December)



Rick
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  #21  
Old 08-16-2012, 12:21 PM
sante sante is offline
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the stainless will rust easier.

All of my A/T wilsons still look great, albeit some slight holster wear.

My stainless wilsons are higher maintenance and several have slight surface rust issues....and I live in the desert.
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  #22  
Old 08-16-2012, 12:47 PM
bullet1 bullet1 is offline
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Thanks men now I'm thinking back to the AT thats what I orded in the first guess I should stay with my first decision. Thanks again for all your feed back
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  #23  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:24 PM
chrysanthemum chrysanthemum is offline
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Originally Posted by bullet1 View Post
Thanks men now I'm thinking back to the AT thats what I orded in the first guess I should stay with my first decision. Thanks again for all your feed back
I'm late to this thread (been busy!), but I think that's the better choice for a person who's debating this choice.

-Carbon steel allows for somewhat more precision and/or a reduced coefficient of friction, especially in regard to the frame/slide fit. If we were talking about revolvers (rather than 1911s) this would be less relevant.

-AT applied to carbon steel is, by most accounts, more resistant to rust/corrosion than bare stainless steel.

Now for those who either like the look of stainless or who have (for some reason) a real aversion to polymer finishes, then stainless may be the better choice.

ANOTHER ALTERNATIVE: IF your main objective is to provide maximum protection against rust/corrosion, and if this objective is more important than the precision/low COF objective, you MIGHT want to consider stainless steel with an AT finish. From purely a rust/corrosion prevention standpoint, this would be the best of both worlds.
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  #24  
Old 08-16-2012, 10:15 PM
TheGunXchange TheGunXchange is offline
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The other consideration - at least for me, is that when you AT a weapon, if an ejected casing happens to ping the top of your weapon (has happened to all of my Wilson ATs at one point or another), it tends to leave a pinhead sized mark in the AT where the casing hit the slide. With a stainless slide, I can buff it out myself. With AT, if I want it to look "new" again, I have to send it back to Wilson. Alternatively, if I want to avoid this on a new AT weapon, I could put some kind of tape (foam?) on the slide top where pings typically occur, but that makes the gun look weird at the range, and has the added pain of installing and removing said tape/foam before and after each range session.

Hope this all makes sense... again, just my 2 cents.

-Ken
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  #25  
Old 08-16-2012, 10:23 PM
chrysanthemum chrysanthemum is offline
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Originally Posted by TheGunXchange View Post
The other consideration - at least for me, is that when you AT a weapon, if an ejected casing happens to ping the top of your weapon (has happened to all of my Wilson ATs at one point or another), it tends to leave a pinhead sized mark in the AT where the casing hit the slide. With a stainless slide, I can buff it out myself. With AT, if I want it to look "new" again, I have to send it back to Wilson. Alternatively, if I want to avoid this on a new AT weapon, I could put some kind of tape (foam?) on the slide top where pings typically occur, but that makes the gun look weird at the range, and has the added pain of installing and removing said tape/foam before and after each range session.

Hope this all makes sense... again, just my 2 cents.

-Ken
Good point and perfectly clear ... those of us who put in "range time" know this, but newcomers to 1911s tend not to know it. If someone intends for their 1911 to be a working gun, he/she either needs to accept these "pings" (this is my choice for my "working" 1911s) or go in either of the routes you've suggested.
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