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  #1  
Old 05-01-2012, 09:29 AM
SteveKoz SteveKoz is offline
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Grip stud problem




I wanted to test the VZ slim line G10's that came on my Dan Wesson on the Kimber custom. When I removed the grip screws on the Kimber the studs came out with the screws. How do I now separate the stud and screw? I used some blue locktite and reassembled last night in hopes that will hold the studs to the frame.. but looking for other ideas in case that doesn't work.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2012, 09:35 AM
herd48 herd48 is offline
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When I run into a situation like this, this is what I do. I put a small amount of torque clockwise on the screw. Then I quickly reverse the turning to counterclockwise. This works much of the time.
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:05 AM
Hellsing76 Hellsing76 is offline
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OP, the Loctite thing works for me EVERY TIME! If blue doesn't work, take a toothpick with a VERY SMALL amount of red, I mean very small, this also has worked fro me within about an hour, and yes, I still use the quick twist method but don't slip....your frame and/or grips might not like you after that, lol.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:17 AM
supervel supervel is offline
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The bushings are supposed to be staked to the frame with a puch type instrument from the inside. Locite seems like it should work OK. If all else fails you can remove the bushing from grip with visegrip's and throw it away. I would not recomend trying to reuse it if the treads are damaged.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:24 AM
Hellsing76 Hellsing76 is offline
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Oh yeah, and to add, when I put my grips on, I use a ball end allen (except on Springers, I use a T15 Torx bit) and only tighten with the what I can twist the long part of the allen, or Torx with between my thumb and index finger, and not with all my strength. Never measured the torque my banana hands put out but I never have a stuck screw or bushing since and never have had em loosen up at the range either. I know they are "supposed" to be staked as supervel stated but shoot I only have a couple that were staked and none of my Series I Kimbers were. I'd rather em not be staked incase you strip screw threads or want to change steel to stainless, etc. Staking is a permanent fix to a wearable part, not cool, IMO.
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:28 AM
supervel supervel is offline
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Like I said a Med stenght removeable Loctite sounds OK, and a good idea,I would not hesitate to use it, esp. if I wanted to go to slims and back to regular.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:36 AM
emptymag emptymag is online now
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I don't believe Kimber stakes their grip screw bushings (Colt and SA do, though). I do a lot of slim grip change-overs, and the Kimbers are usually the easier of the 'bunch'.
If you are going from standard grips to SLIM panels, then you need to change the bushings anyway.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:37 AM
supervel supervel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emptymag View Post
I don't believe Kimber stakes their grip screw bushings (Colt and SA do, though). I do a lot of slim grip change-overs, and the Kimbers are usually the easier of the 'bunch'.
If you are going from standard grips to SLIM panels, then you need to change the bushings anyway.
That was my point to using Loctite instead of staking.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2012, 11:09 AM
SteveKoz SteveKoz is offline
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I think I used the blue locktite on the screws the last time I took it apart which is why I'm guessing the bushings came out this time.. Might have to step up into the red if the blue on the studs doesn't work.

What is staking a bushing all about? How are you suppose to get out bushings that are staked?
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2012, 11:33 AM
Dangerous Dangerous is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveKoz View Post
I think I used the blue locktite on the screws the last time I took it apart which is why I'm guessing the bushings came out this time.. Might have to step up into the red if the blue on the studs doesn't work.

What is staking a bushing all about? How are you suppose to get out bushings that are staked?

Staking is the original way of doing it before locktite was invented.
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  #11  
Old 05-01-2012, 11:39 AM
supervel supervel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangerous View Post
Staking is the original way of doing it before locktite was invented.
Don't believe that is entirely correct. Some buider's still stake. Red Locite will get the job done, and is easier for most people. It also does not damage the bushing if you want to remove it. With the advent of slim grips and bushings it makes alot of sense so you can play with grips as some people like to experiment and see what they like best.
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2012, 11:42 AM
code_red code_red is offline
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Blue locktite always worked for me. The red stuff made it almost impossible to get the bushings out when I use it. Took a little heat. Think I'll stick with the blue stuff. I heard a little nail polish works too.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2012, 07:46 PM
Rick McC. Rick McC. is offline
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Blue LocTite will work fine if you degrease the holes in the frame (I use 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store with a q-tip) first.

I never had a Kimber that didn't have at least one of the bushings come out when I went to change grips.

Take care,

Rick
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2012, 12:10 PM
palgeno palgeno is offline
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My stainless S&W 1911 came with rubber grip panels...with the S&W logo embossed and made by Hogue. These look nice with the bead blasted finish of the frame and slide but who does not want to make their 1911s look better? I had a few nice wood grip sets so decided to give them a try. Well.. I encountered the problem described in this thread. I tried the tighten then quickly turn the opposite way...bushing still came out. Next, I tried the blue Loctite trick...even degreased first...no luck. I'm wary of using red Loctite. Guess I'll get some new bushings and sacrifice the ones attached now.
Gene
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2012, 01:06 PM
SteveKoz SteveKoz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palgeno View Post
..... Next, I tried the blue Loctite trick...even degreased first...no luck. I'm wary of using red Loctite. Guess I'll get some new bushings and sacrifice the ones attached now.
Gene
I forgot to update my post.. The blue loctite worked for me.

Your not really sacrificing your current bushings.. your just making them a permanent part of that pair of grips. I hear the bushings are not that expensive so new ones could be the easiest way to go...BUT if the blue didn't work for me I think I would have tried the red next. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong but with the red you can apply some heat like with a soldering iron to loosen up the red loctite and then the bushings would breaks free.

Glad I didn't need to though..
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  #16  
Old 05-24-2012, 08:05 PM
palgeno palgeno is offline
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You have a good point...I could just leave the original grip/screw/bushing set as is and install new bushings for other grips. Thanks for the tip.
Gene
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  #17  
Old 05-25-2012, 05:20 AM
Laudanum Laudanum is offline
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Is the "problem" with the bushing coming out related to loctite used to secure the screws to the bushings? I dont have a load of 1911 experience but the grip screws seem to come out pretty easily. Just wondering if Kimber used loctite to secure the screws. The #60 O-ring instead of loctite seems to be the better solution to keep the grip screws from coming loose. I know this doesnt address the original issue but maybe helps for the future. Ive read ... blue loctite the bushing, O-ring the screw. No more future problems
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