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#1
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Hammer won't stay cocked. Any ideas?
Well, I have myself a vintage custom 1911 that I decided to take apart for a nice cleaning. This isn't the first time I cleaned my gun like this but for some reason the hammer won't stay cocked back when I pull the slide. It stays back when I pull the hammer back manually but not when the slide sets it down. I almost got screwed at the range when the gun shot full auto out of my control. I fired the first shot and it kept shooting even with my finger off the trigger. I'm sure you guys see the major problem here. I've taken the gun apart a dozen times and the sear Spring is definitly not the problem. The hammer strut however may have gotten a bit bent. Could it be from that? Not too many gun smiths around my area, so that's not much of an option for me. Could anyone help me out with this?
Thanks |
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#2
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Just one... seek professional help. Do not shoot the gun or even think about it.
How did the hammer strut get bent? Could it be that you did something more than take it apart? |
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#3
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It sounds like a Dremmel Tool got away from you.
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#4
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Sear spring on top of the sear legs and disconnector and under tension when the MSH is slide up all the way. A bent strut would not keep the hammer from being cocked, that could bind it, but would also when manually cocking it. Go back to square one. Take your time. Change anything not mentioned?
LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous... |
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#5
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Whether the strut is bent or not you have a serious issue,the hammer should overcock slightly from the slide.If nothing has been replaced since it worked last something is binding or wore to the majic point of no return.It's acting as the sear is too long or the hammer face is reprofiled to limit overtravel but was overdone.More info would help and being positive everything is together correct (we all overlook something sometimes).
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Liberalism isn't a political view,it's a mental disease. |
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#6
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I bet the sear spring is exactly the problem or maybe you might of left out some other detail? Log's post probably hit the nail on the head. 9 times out of 10, posts like this end up with the left leaf of the sear spring not laying on top of the sear leg.
It is possible the sear or hammer is worn but I would probably guess you assembled it wrong or the spring need more tension. Did you tinker with anything? |
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#7
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Hey guys thanks for the replies. I still havnt gotten it to work. 3rd day I'm workinG on it. The hammer strut may have gotten bent because I forced the strut into the grip while the hammer was cocked back but it wasn't in the hole. I've taken the gun apart a dozen times before without a problem. The sear spring is definitly not the problem here, If it was it wouldnt let the gun cock back manually either. It seems that when the hammer is back if I slam it back it's not able to stay back and drops and hits the pin. I also noticed the hammer isn't going as fully back as before in cocked position if that helps it's floating over. It used to almost touch the bottom before. Idk maybe full auto isn't so bad? =S
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#8
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It's always good to understand what's going on, but at this point I will only recommend that you take it to a pistol smith, or send it to the maker for service.
LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous... |
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#9
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Welcome to the Forum
Quote:
With handling like that, it kinda sounds like you messed it up, partner. Kinda doubtful that you will be able to fix it yourself. |
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#10
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Yep Agreed!
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A fanatic is one who sticks to his guns whether they're loaded or not. ![]() Franklin P. Jones NRA MEMBER |
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#11
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Quote:
Quote:
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TB., NC * denotes a link supplied by me, and not an automatically generated Viglink |
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